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Joined
Jul 23, 2007
Threads
10
Messages
134
Location
Reno, NV
Been wanting to do this for about 5 years. As of last saturday my truck no longer has IFS.

Plans, 80 series radius arms, diamond housing with HP Toyota 8" third (zip locker). 12" 2.0 resi FOA coilovers. Using a rebuilt FJ60 steering box and GM y-link steering setup.

On Saturday, a buddy and myself managed to remove all the moving parts from the front end, cut the brackets off and grind it down go a point where I could get started on plating the frame.

On sunday ran into some issues with the hubs and removal of the old power steering lines. We managed to get the axle in its general postion and found it interfered with the oil pan so now I am working on notching it to clear the third member.

So at this point, the hard work is done, now its all fabrication and problem solving.

Anyways, since I am using cruiser parts I figured you guys may get a kick out of this build.

With any luck, I want to at least have the frame mounts for the arms attached by the end of this coming weekend.

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That's FUGGIN awesome! The ONLY way to go,IMO!!!
If I knew then what I know now... I'd have gone a similar route. Late model 4 runner, sas, gears, lockers and low gears...DONE!!!
 
I remember doing that to my 88 4runner. Started out as a simple tranmission project (early R150 problems) and morphed into the SAS, dual cases, 35's...

Here is a pic of it on Clawhammer in Johnson Valley.


Can't wait to see the end result.

Jack
 
.....

Anyways, since I am using cruiser parts I figured you guys may get a kick out of this build.
.....

I'm pretty sure we would be interested even if you were putting Dana's under it. :lol:

BTW the club is open to all Toyota 4WD's with a two speed transfer case (that last bit is to keep the mini vans and Tercels out :grinpimp:).
 
I'm pretty sure we would be interested even if you were putting Dana's under it. :lol:

BTW the club is open to all Toyota 4WD's with a two speed transfer case (that last bit is to keep the mini vans and Tercels out :grinpimp:).

Good to know :)


Seems like I am making little to no progress, hope that changes in the next few days.

I got the oil pan sealed up and I tested for leaks with several pots of boiling water.
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Picked up some cheap u-bolts at home depot and taked them to the bracket I made. Basically they are acting as another set of hands while I mock this up. Looking like the factory x-member and trans support will need to get cut out and something new to replace them has to be made.
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very cool! I wish I had been able to get my step dad's 87 4 Runner. He drove the crap out of it and drove it into the ground, it would have been a perfect wheeling machine.

wishing I could do some work on my truck. no time, lack of funds, blah.

Jon
 
Factory X-member came out without a fight, or I am just getting better with the plasma... not sure which yet.

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Then I cut out a piece of 3/16" and put a hole in the center of it for the trans mount to fit. I just welded the trans mount to the plate to save time instead of drilling the 4 needed holes.

I need to go pickup some square tube from metal masters today for the new xmember. I'm thinking 1.75 square tube, probably .120 wall.

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The plan is to copy this guys cross member, he basically did the same thing I am shooting for, but with a newer truck.
05+ Hilux Buds customs SAS - D40 Next... - The Navara Forum
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Looking good! I use the same t-case mount/support on my 40 crawl box. It has taken a lot of abuse and held up really well.

Watching this with interest as I have a 98 4runner...hmmmm
 
So for those of you that have done buggies and axle swaps etc.. Any tips or tricks to getting the axle centered and straight to the frame?
 
So for those of you that have done buggies and axle swaps etc.. Any tips or tricks to getting the axle centered and straight to the frame?

Carpenter's square, plumb bob and lots and lots of measuring. Then before you do any permanent welding...measure, measure, measure.

Measure from a known point (that won't change) on the frame for front to back, then cross measure to square it up, use the carpenter's square and plumb bob to make sure you are centered side to side. Did I mention measure?:grinpimp:

Also, I would have it setting at ride height when you "place" the axle for the final time. So get the springs mounted, all the weight on the front that you think it will have (winches, bumpers, etc.), then place the suspension mounting points and confirm everything is where you want it, before final welding.

Jack
 
X2 on what Jack said lots of measuring me and a friend used his rear axle as a measure point hope it helps

Dan :cheers::steer::bounce::bounce2:
 
Kinda of a productive weekend, but always some road blocks.

Good news, we got the axle centered and lined up. Tacked the frame side mounts in place and put some heavy tacks on the axle side. We used tape measures, plumb bobs, string and a ouija board but got it exactly where it needed to be. Actually welded it to the frame for a few hours just to be safe.

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But, now I need to re-notch the oil pan and take another small corner out of it. Guess all that ground clearance that a diamond saves you comes back to bit you with the center section width.

Cross member should be done later tonight, its pretty interesting looking.... Had to clear the exhaust and also not interfere with the drive shaft. Lots of trial and error.
 
Couple more from another camera.

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Mocked up.. coilover mount needs to go 1.5" or more up higher into the wheel well
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Caster set at 4.5 degrees.
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Looking good Kurt! I am curious to see what the final ride height ends up being, this seems to be one of the most difficult aspects of solid axle swaps.

Whose steering arms are those? Modified factory 80 Series?
 
Looking good Kurt! I am curious to see what the final ride height ends up being, this seems to be one of the most difficult aspects of solid axle swaps.

Whose steering arms are those? Modified factory 80 Series?

They are factory low steer arms from the mini truck. But with the push pull arm cut off on the drivers side. Then I reamed them for GM 1-ton ends todo the y-link style setup.
 
Ok.. had a mishap in the garage that set me back a few days. Took a piece of metal to the cornea and scratched my eye pretty good. I got the metal out but had to see a speciallist to have the small spec of rust dug out of my eye. Not fun.

Anways, managed to complete the frame side mounts, flipped the axle upside down and welded in the radius arm brackets. Now I am back to kicking my self for not pushing the axle another inch forward. A vein/spine on the HP third member is hitting the pan now so its back to notching it again.

Also got the borgeson steering shaft in place and trimmed down.
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The franken oil-pan step ladder notch.
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Capped the radius arm mounts.
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So this is the point I am at with the steering box. I admit I am out of my element because I did not research this part enough. How far forward is to far forward for the drag link? I assume you want the drag link farily close to the tie rod, but I have also seen it spaced quite a bit forward.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

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The straighter shot to the right side knuckle, the better. I've got a buddy with a buggy that has about 2" of offset to the front of the rig, from being square to the high steer arm on the pass side knuckle. He has nothing but problems with either bending the tie rod end, or breaking knuckles because it's pushing rearward and sideways rather than just sideways.

Clear as mud?
 
I had some plasma steel spay into my eye last winter. That S U C K E D!!! I was wearing safety glasses too and it blew up under under the rim. I feel your pain man.
 
Also been there, done that. I'm such a wuss now with my eyes. Not only did it cost me 1/2 a paycheck, but having the doc dig that chunk of iron out of my eye was less than pleasant.

On a good note, he was one of the best eye doc's I've ever been to, and would gladly do anything the man ever asked of me.
 

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