Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

[doug720]

The "Air Dam" effect is interesting. I also have a layered cooling system - AC condenser, inter-cooler and radiator on my 60. I did seal the top and bottom of of my "Forward" shroud, so maybe it helps?

I run an ARB with two lights - 6" - and a winch with out issue.

Is the turbo plumbed like stock? I run mine with the original plumbing and no issues.

I have never had mine get hot, so I think it's something like stupid like a radiator blockage, odd water routing or the air dam issue.

 

[doug720]

I wrote my last post earlier and just saw that no shroud is on! Likely that's the issue. I modified my stock shroud with a very minor notch, and it fits and works great. Just an idea.

Hope this is it!

 

[Wheelingnoob]

All lines to the turbo removed, everything is bypassed or plugged but the rad and the heater. Still have the locked fan on it. Installed the lower deflector and a temp gauge so I can monitor the temps real time instead of jumping out with the IR gun every time.

So far temps seem good its 24c today and the highest engine temp I have seen is 195f stopped. As soon as RPM raise the temp drops. I have the final parts for the fan shroud just need to get mocked up and out for welding.


Not sure the shroud/lack of was the issue. Im sure it contributed to it. Others have run these with out shrouds in far warmer temps with no issues. Guess I was expecting too much, just heard lots about this engine running cold and mine is far from that.

Im going to get it out and hopefully finish the break in of the engine in short order.

Still have the EGT/low boost to deal with but I have a feeling there is only one fix for that.






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[Dougal]

ot sure the shroud/lack of was the issue. Im sure it contributed to it. Others have run these with out shrouds in far warmer temps with no issues. Guess I was expecting too much, just heard lots about this engine running cold and mine is far from that.

I'm 100% sure the lack of a shroud is your issue. Without a shroud a viscous fan hub doesn't get the hot air over it to thicken it up and start working either.

I have run without a fan working. But without an intercooler pre-heating or slowing the radiator air, without working AC with a fast spooing turbo and open road. There are very good reasons every production engine has a fan with a shroud.

Still have the EGT/low boost to deal with but I have a feeling there is only one fix for that.

Spill timing?

 

[fabmec]

Good to hear you are moving forward. The Toyota fans are designed to throw most of their air from the tip of the blade and should sit with only the front 1/3 into the shroud, without a shroud you would have to run the blades about an inch or less from the core or most of the air recirculates around the fan.

I was having a look at post 607 page 31 last night before the power went out, did you end up using one of those old fan clutches or did you fit a new one? They look like something I'd bin when doing a swap. A rusty bi metal or seized control shaft could be an issue.

Still have the EGT/low boost to deal with but I have a feeling there is only one fix for that.

Things to check - intake manifold retaining springs & hardware, leaking or failed intercooler (cap hoses at turbo & intake man fit one cap with an air fitting and feed a regulated 20 or 30 psi into it , I use heavy pvc pipe caps), waste gate issues, failed turbo or to much clearance between comp or turbine wheel & housing (might want to check comp outlet temp), injection timing & advance unit, cam timing, weak valve springs, incorrect injector nozzles. I did a cummins in a tractor years ago that had the wrong cam in it - valve & injection timing was wrong - all sorts of overheating & power problems.

 

[Fromage]

Fabmec nailed it. On page 38 there is a pic of your fan and it is a long distance away from the radiator core. I don't run a shroud but my fan is right up against the rad, less than an inch away. The distance away from the rad would make the fan very ineffective. I would bet that a spacer that brings the fan forward would solve your issue, but you're better off just putting a shroud on it...

 

[Fromage]

Another thing. HANG IN THERE! There is always a ton of little stuff to be ironed out when you basically reengineer a vehicle. If you want to check the timing with a pulse adapter, I will mail you mine, just mail it back when you are done...

 

[fabmec]

On some cruisers with heating problem due to that air dam effect I have hung a 3 or 4 inch wide piece of 1/2" thick insertion rubber bolted to a piece of angle from the plate under the radiator, just got to find a spot that it doesn't interfere with the linkages. This creates a low pressure area behind the diff and in the engine bay and makes it a bit easier for your fan.

 

[doug720]

For comparison. I set my fan/shroud to about the same as the stock 2f was. I used the 2f clutch and fan also.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

So last night on my drive from shop home (10min) it got hot 210f with in about 7 min so I turned the heater on full and the fan max. Cooled off enough to close the thermostat by the time I got home. So I continued driving under load with the heater on max i was able to maintain temp maybe a slight increase. As soon as I backed off and cruised it cooled off fast. Turn off the heater and the temp barely maintains it self under cruise and under load it quickly creeped up till I backed off at 210f. When I cruised after again with the heater off it ever so slowly cooled too about 200f and stayed there load would send it back to 210f again quite quickly. Turn o the heater again and would start cooling off.

I think my rad is shot, I had it checked when I had the inlet moved but I do not think they actually removed the tanks or flow tested it.

I have found a new replacement with a 4 core copper brass. Just need to bone up the $500 for it. Getting my rad recored to 4 core would cost me $490.....so will go new.

I think that is why my temps top to bottom are only 10f different at the best of times. A few times it been just as hot as the top even with the locked fan clutch. So the water that is getting through is not cooling.

Im away for a few days but plan to get the rad Monday if possible. I will also finish the shroud at the same time. At 2000rpm with the locked clutch I can feel air getting sucked through the grill so air flow I think is good.

As was said before at hwy speed I should not really need to fan to keep it cool. Right now even locked it does not keep it cool at hwy speeds.


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[Wheelingnoob]

View attachment 937915 For comparison. I set my fan/shroud to about the same as the stock 2f was. I used the 2f clutch and fan also.

Thanks for the pic, I have the Isuzu fan and clutch on now. I may swap back to the toyota one if this rad fixes my issues. Problem is the fans have a different blade depths so the shroud made for one will not work with the other. The toyota clutch is re build able though and the fan is new.

On the previously mention condition of them well they stay looking new for a year or two and then look just like these.


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[Wheelingnoob]

Another thing. HANG IN THERE! There is always a ton of little stuff to be ironed out when you basically reengineer a vehicle. If you want to check the timing with a pulse adapter, I will mail you mine, just mail it back when you are done...

Thanks! Done a few swaps and this one overall has been much easier and cheaper than the others. They all have there issues or struggles. Just hope I have this overheating sorted out.


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[Fromage]

It looks like your rad is pretty standard sized, I used a speedway motors universal 28" chevy style rad, they come in different widths from 22 to 31 inches. I think it was 130 bucks. I moved the outlets and welded brackets to it, welded beautifully. I will never buy a copper rad again, these are just fantastic to work with and a lot less expensive (I remember paying 600 bones for a 4 core copper rad for my Cummins powered Land-Rover, could have built the same for a third of that with one of these aluminum rads). I mention it since you obviously have access to someone with a TIG...

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I hope the radiator fixes it.
If you modify your temp gauge be ready for lots of movement. I don't know if I trust it anymore than before but it definitely moves around. Since I am running electric fans that come on at 185 degrees the temp will creep up to 3/4 on the highway after start up. Once the the fans kick on and the thermostat opens the temps stabilize quickly and the gauge sits at the 1/2 way mark. I still want to install a digital gauge to monitor temps.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

It looks like your rad is pretty standard sized, I used a speedway motors universal 28" chevy style rad, they come in different widths from 22 to 31 inches. I think it was 130 bucks. I moved the outlets and welded brackets to it, welded beautifully. I will never buy a copper rad again, these are just fantastic to work with and a lot less expensive (I remember paying 600 bones for a 4 core copper rad for my Cummins powered Land-Rover, could have built the same for a third of that with one of these aluminum rads). I mention it since you obviously have access to someone with a TIG...

Yeah its a FJ60 rad. I wanted to use something that was easily replaceable if its damaged on a trip. Out here rads seem to become victim to branches from time to time.

I want to be able to replace it with out the need for custom brackets and specialty welding. I actually have one of those aluminum rads that fits well but needs to have brackets welded on. It would work great but I am hesitant to go that route.







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[Wheelingnoob]

I hope the radiator fixes it.
If you modify your temp gauge be ready for lots of movement. I don't know if I trust it anymore than before but it definitely moves around. Since I am running electric fans that come on at 185 degrees the temp will creep up to 3/4 on the highway after start up. Once the the fans kick on and the thermostat opens the temps stabilize quickly and the gauge sits at the 1/2 way mark. I still want to install a digital gauge to monitor temps.

Yes I have heard that. I may if I get these cooling issues fixed just leave it as is. Then I will not obsess over every little movement.

Not sure yet.


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[Wheelingnoob]

I hope the radiator fixes it.
If you modify your temp gauge be ready for lots of movement. I don't know if I trust it anymore than before but it definitely moves around. Since I am running electric fans that come on at 185 degrees the temp will creep up to 3/4 on the highway after start up. Once the the fans kick on and the thermostat opens the temps stabilize quickly and the gauge sits at the 1/2 way mark. I still want to install a digital gauge to monitor temps.

Yes I have heard that. I may if I get these cooling issues fixed just leave it as is. Then I will not obsess over every little movement.

Not sure yet.


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[warezdog]

When my rad pooped I opted to use the sheppard aluminum one from an early 80, was $99 shipped and the brackets are the same.

ALL ALUMINUM RADIATOR - 7262-2AA - Toyota Land Cruiser ALL ALUMINUM RADIATOR (Qty=1, Price=$99.00)
Subtotal: $99.00
Shipping and Handling: $12.21
Coupon Amount: $0.00
Tax: $5.94
Total: $117.15

I just looked at their site again and it shows "coming soon" ?? Odd

 

[Wheelingnoob]

When my rad pooped I opted to use the sheppard aluminum one from an early 80, was $99 shipped and the brackets are the same.

ALL ALUMINUM RADIATOR - 7262-2AA - Toyota Land Cruiser ALL ALUMINUM RADIATOR (Qty=1, Price=$99.00)
Subtotal: $99.00
Shipping and Handling: $12.21
Coupon Amount: $0.00
Tax: $5.94
Total: $117.15

I just looked at their site again and it shows "coming soon" ?? Odd

That will not work anylonger in mine. I moved the rad back and to keep the stock battery boxes and the intercooler plumbing easy i used a FJ60 rad. Its about 6" narrower than the 80series. I have a two year old brass 3 core from toyota that I took out.

Thanks for the suggestion though.


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[doug720]

It sounds like you are going to be using the same radiator I have - 60 series, 4 core, brass/copper. It has worked well on mine, so should on yours also.

Did you seal all the gaps in the space around the spacer between the rad, inter cooler and condenser? Mine is sealed pretty well. I was thinking some card board and duct tape as a test on yours? You have to wait on the rad anyway...

Hope the rad cures it, it should!