Isuzu 4BD1-T swap into a '92

[jtaylor]

Working pressures should be around 1500psi. The max rating of regular AN hose is about that. The power steering hose has a higher rating of 2500psi.

Russell Hose has a special power steering hose, vs the regular aluminum AN hose. If they didn't specifically have hose and ends for power steering, I wouldn't have known or said anything. This is just what I saw in their catalog when I was shopping for hose and ends for racecar stuff.

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/hose/main.shtml
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/hose/power_steering.shtml

edit: looks like their PS hose ends are 'special alloy' and not stainless.

Thanks for the heads up, I should have done a little more research on that. I let the parts store guys steer me on that one(ha). Looks like a better decision was to be made. At least changing over shouldn't cost more than $100, If it's not one thing it's another.

Oh, and I am happy to be a guinea pig for this!

 

[86tuning]

Thanks for the heads up, I should have done a little more research on that. I let the parts store guys steer me on that one(ha). Looks like a better decision was to be made. At least changing over shouldn't cost more than $100, If it's not one thing it's another.

Oh, and I am happy to be a guinea pig for this!

The old AN pieces can be re used for other stuff. Can't ever have too much AN stuff its handy for your upcoming onboard air

I'd also consider having a hydraulic hose made up for the high pressure side. Usually quite affordable, the JIC fittings from a hydraulic hose shop are exactly the same as AN only made of steel. Easy to do because you've got the precise length already made up.

 

[doug720]

Great progress since I last checked in!

One suggestion, even though these are pretty smooth running engines, I changed my intake from solid pipe like you have, to a flex section. I was worried vibration would crack the air filter housing after I ran it for a little while even with double hump hose connectors.

Carry on.

Doug

 

[jtaylor]

Thanks!

Hey Doug, that makes sense, I will look in to that.

As for other progress, I received my radiator today and the russell power steering specific fittings to make a pressure line. This weekend will be a busy one. Building mounts for a new radiator, condenser, two trans coolers(one stock and an aftermarket one I picked up to replace the capacity lost in the radiator swap), and the intercooler. Then make a fan shroud.

I did mock up the radiator earlier, or rather sat it in the bay, it will be the trick to make a little more room to route intercooler piping. There will be some cutting involved of factory sheetmetal, but not nearly as severe as it might have been. The radiator is an aluminum unit from mishimoto, it was listed as a nissan fit, for a skyline or something maybe. But it met the size requirments, and the inlets and outlets were in the right places with a similar size.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Yep a slightly smaller Rad will help with I/C piping a lot. Good move changing the PS fittings, blew one of the AL fittings in my old race car.

 

[jtaylor]

AC Condenser

I got my bottom mounts in for the radiator today, and I cut out some sheetmetal for intercooler routing, looks like it will be a nice fit.

I have just the perfect space for the condenser between the radiator and the front cross member. Problem is the stocker is not an optimal fit, so I am looking at an aftermarket set-up. I am also going to have to go with a different compressor, so I need these two pieces live in harmony with the rest of the trucks a/c set-up. I need to edumacate myself on this stuff.

No pics yet, I'll get some tomorrow. Gotta order some 2.5" silicone bits and some other misc.. Man I'm close, but getting this cooling set-up dialed in will take a minute.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Time to get some pictures. Good reading because I know most of the parts being used.

People love pictures

 

[jtaylor]

Pictures!

Ok, here is where I ended up yesterday, no workie today, I gotta go climbing.

Got the lower radiator mounts in, it allows for plenty of room for p/s and a/t lines. You can also see the sheetmetal that I cut out to allow for i/c piping.

Passenger side cut out, I will channel this section, I think that is the correct term. I can mount the I/C plenty high to get it above the winch line for un impeded airflow

nice gap for the condenser to slip into. I ordered an aftermarket unit that is the size of radiator. It will make the setting up a/c easier, it uses AN fittings.

Drivers side, I got a little crazy with the plasma cutter, but this is going to all get reinforced(channeled, sectioned, boxed?). The i/c piping is routed under the radiator.

Got some sheetmetal work to do. I also got the intake manifold flange sorted as far as how to set it up to clear the actuator cables and fuel filter, so it can be plugged in to the i/c

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Looks good! How are you planing to tie in the top of the rad? Are the bottom brackets welded to the frame cross member? If they are be careful with the upper mounts since the frame and the body move seperit of each other. if the top is tied into the body the rad will probably have cracking issues after a bit.

 

[jtaylor]

Mounts

I am using rubber mounts on the bottom, they will be "loose". The top will be tied in with "c" brackets around rubber grommets and some bolts with rubber isolators. There will be some give. I haven't made the top brackets yet, but will get some pics up as soon as I do.

 

[jtaylor]

Radiator, Condenser and trans coolers

OK, so it's been raining here in southwest Utah, and my shop space is covered, not enclosed, so it slowed down the progress a little. And it was my birthday from wednesday on, so the celebration lasted a few days.....well, it was raining anyway.

Anyhoo, so I finished mounting up the radiator, and mounted the condenser and trans coolers. I added an extra one to supplement what I lost with the stock radiator.

So you can see how the rad is mated to the condenser, just made a couple of brackets, and put some closed cell foam stripping between the two for a cushion

Here is a front shot, you can see the lower brackets for the condenser, the trans coolers are using the plastic ties that go through the rad and condenser, I am hoping that these are sturdy enough for off road use, but have zero experience with them, anyone?

So the radiator sits on bottom mounts, has the grommets for the top pegs, which tie into the brackets that are bolted with rubber washers to the front clip, that should give me enough give in the system for flex of the body and frame.

I am close to getting the intercooler mounted up, and I discovered that one mount on the top of the i/c was off center. That kinda sucks, especially because that messes with the bracket that I was building. So I hung it up for the day, and played around with fitment of the i/c piping and silicone elbows and what not.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Looking good, that Rad fits nicely in there. Any info on the a/c core?

I have used those push through cooler mounting systems before and had mixed results. In an off road application I would keep a close eye on them. In my experience they can tear up both cores.

 

[jtaylor]

AC Condenser

Hey Jeremy, the condenser is from vintage air, I got it from summit. It has an -8 and an-6 fittings.

I am going to replace the toyota trans cooler with an identical unit that I already installed. The replacement is much slimmer than the toyota, and it weighs less, so the advantage is twofold. And it gives me much more room for the i/c. The cooler is rated for a medium duty truck, so two should do the trick.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Hey Jeremy, the condenser is from vintage air, I got it from summit. It has an -8 and an-6 fittings.

I am going to replace the toyota trans cooler with an identical unit that I already installed. The replacement is much slimmer than the toyota, and it weighs less, so the advantage is twofold. And it gives me much more room for the i/c. The cooler is rated for a medium duty truck, so two should do the trick.

Thanks for the tip on the condenser, I'll probably end up doing the same.

Yeah on these trucks the bigger the trans coolers the better. I plan to run two OEM ones on mine to start.

 

[jtaylor]

I/C

Got the i/c mounts almost done, top is mated up to the stock condenser brackets. I will be removing some material on the angle to help airflow. I will also have to modify the center support that originally is about where the i/c sits. That shouldn't be a big deal, probably just tie it in to the upper and lower mount and cut out the middle.

I mounted a different trans cooler that was slimmer than the stock one. I have two mounted on the condenser, and padding between the i/c and trans coolers.

I have to do a little more clearancing of sheet metal and the battery box, but very minimal at this point.

As far as mounting the i/c goes, in retrospect I would have looked for a model with inlets out the bottom, and done some heavy fab on the frame to fit the piping. It would have turned out a little cleaner, less sheetmetal to cut up, and could probably fit a larger i/c easily. Dustin alluded to this earlier, in kits he was tinkering with. Something to think about for next time, or for the first time, ahem, Jeremy?

 

[half k cruiser]

This is a really good write up. I've been enjoying all the pics and details. Hope your up and running soon so you can give us the driveability report. I'm wondering if anybody has done a swap without intercooler ? Seems like it would be ok if you didn't plan on turning up the boost.

 

[jtaylor]

Boost

There is a guy in AZ that did a swap in a 60 series without i/c. I think he is happy with it. There is also a guy in northern utah that did the same swap in a 60 but intercooled it. He is likin the extra power for the long passes.

I think if you didn't want to change turbos, turn up fueling, intercooling, and all that fun stuff, the stock will work fine. I was after a little more oomph. The engine in stock form is not very "enthusiastic", but it will get the job done in a stock cruiser

 

[Wheelingnoob]

As far as mounting the i/c goes, in retrospect I would have looked for a model with inlets out the bottom, and done some heavy fab on the frame to fit the piping. It would have turned out a little cleaner, less sheetmetal to cut up, and could probably fit a larger i/c easily. Dustin alluded to this earlier, in kits he was tinkering with. Something to think about for next time, or for the first time, ahem, Jeremy?

Hmmm have not been able to find any condensers with the inlet out lets on the bottom. I'll have to keep looking.

 

[jtaylor]

I/C

Check out cxracing.com, seems like they have a bunch of different configurations. I know I have seen them somewhere..... The a/c condenser has in/outs on the side

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Check out cxracing.com, seems like they have a bunch of different configurations. I know I have seen them somewhere..... The a/c condenser has in/outs on the side

Thanks man, ill keep looking and post in my thread if and when I find something.

Keep up the great work!