Issues Changing Oil Pan

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WALoeIII

WALoeIII

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Joined
May 18, 2004
Threads
70
Messages
452
Location
Seattle, WA
Website
andrewloe.com
Background:
I bought a new oil pan and gasket, the old one was cracked. I changed it, but did not install the gasket correctly so its leaking.

Issue:
The flywheel cover overlaps with the back of the oil pan, clearly it is supposed to be removed first, then the pan & gasket changed, then reinstalled. The problem is my exhaust runs close against it, consequently I cannot install it (or remove it) with the oil pan up. What I did on the first install was to put it sorta on (you have to twist it as your remove it and it needs to rotate into space the oil pan occupies) and then try to install the oil pan. Clearly, this wasn't the best way of tackling the problem because I couldn't line up the back of the gasket exactly properly. Needless to say, the back of the gasket isn't lined up and now leaks. :doh:

Question:
I can't really remove the exhaust without taking it completely off, so I'd like to avoid doing that. Is there an easier way to do this that I'm missing? I have taken a number of photos so you can see what I am seeing.

P1010006.JPG


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More photos, and full size versions are up on my photo gallery: http://andrewloe.com/gallery/view/wheeling/fj60/oil-pan-issues/
 
I've done this job several times on two different 2Fs, and for sure, the bellhousing cover has to be removed first. My exhaust was close but did not block the access. Is yours original?

You might get lucky and sneak it out of there after taking out all of the bolts. The oil pan gasket job will cover you in oil as it slowly drips out of the engine. Enjoy, and report back.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
I've done this job several times on two different 2Fs, and for sure, the bellhousing cover has to be removed first. My exhaust was close but did not block the access. Is yours original?

You might get lucky and sneak it out of there after taking out all of the bolts. The oil pan gasket job will cover you in oil as it slowly drips out of the engine. Enjoy, and report back.
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Oh I got covered the first time for sure! My exhaust is not original, I have headers, and I think a larger diameter midpipe and tailpipe. Is there anyway to get the front drive shaft off that might facilitate this?
 
WALoeIII said:
Oh I got covered the first time for sure! My exhaust is not original, I have headers, and I think a larger diameter midpipe and tailpipe. Is there anyway to get the front drive shaft off that might facilitate this?
Click to expand...

You could try removing the front driveshaft. It isn't hard and only takes a few minutes. Otherwise, your looking at a major job to remove the cover. I think with the DS out of the way, you'll be able to slip the cover out. I use gray Permatex to seal the pan gasket. Toyota does not reccomend that, but it works for me.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
You could try removing the front driveshaft. It isn't hard and only takes a few minutes. Otherwise, your looking at a major job to remove the cover. I think with the DS out of the way, you'll be able to slip the cover out. I use gray Permatex to seal the pan gasket. Toyota does not reccomend that, but it works for me.
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Can you give me a quick primer on removing the driveshaft? I think thats the easiest remedy. I was using a bit of the red gasket maker to tack the gasket to the pan (should remove that way anyways), helped but not enough.
 
WALoeIII said:
Can you give me a quick primer on removing the driveshaft? I think thats the easiest remedy. I was using a bit of the red gasket maker to tack the gasket to the pan (should remove that way anyways), helped but not enough.
Click to expand...

On the Differential end, two 14mm wrenches and some strength will get the DS bolts loose. Try that first and just flex the DS out of the way and see if that gives enough room. If not, then remove the double cardan "protector" and unbolt the driveshaft at the transfercase. It shouldn't be too hard. I had to take out the "protector" when I did the 5 speed swap. It isn't clear what Toyota was trying to accomplish with that extra sheet metal.
 
PabloCruise said:
On my 40, I was able to get the inspection plate off w/ a universal joint on my socket wrench.

And believe me - you are not alone in fuqing up a pan gasket and having to go back and do it again...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=417601&postcount=26
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Its not that the bolts are obscructed, its that its physically impossible to pull the plate from that space once you've unbolted it.
 
If you remove the front shaft and the halves slip apart, make sure you are still in correct phase. Do some searches of that. Your joints must be in same orientation when reinstalled. Make sense? Made this mistake on my rear driveshaft and had some serious vibrations. The rule of thumb that I generally follow is marking the position of the flange to flange on both the TC and axle side.
 
Well I've got the pan down and am waiting on some help to get it back up (somone to operate the floor jack while I line up the gasket).

I ended up taking off the shaft then using it to kinda bend the hoop out of the way. I undid two bolts on the hoop and couldn't figure out how to get it off so I just moved it with the shaft.

How does one properly take that hoop off? I found 5 bolts, 3 on top where it seems to attach to a bracket that has two bolts running parallel with the frame holding it up. What do you take off?!
 
Good job if the oil pan is off. You can re-install the oilpan by yourself. Coat the gasket with a thin layer of gray Permatex. That will allow it to stick to the block seeling surface. Make sure all the holes in the cork are lined up with the threads in the bottom of the block. Make sure the gasket is seated perfectly in the u shaped groove. Then rais the pan with one hand, and start a bolt near the middle on one side. Then the otherside. Then install all the bolts and tighten evenly to torque. It's a low value so do not overtighten. After running a week, go back and re-torque.
 
I really don't want to seal the gasket to the block, in fact thats probably the last thing I want to do. Then when I have to change it again (which I will because s*** like that always happens to me) it will be fused to the block and I'll never be able to get it off. I'd rather mess with it for an extra 15 minutes with some help and save my self loads of grief down the road. The help is more competent than I am, so I'm content to sit here and watch family guy for an hour.
 
If I were to do it all over again, I would go and get 4 bolts that are longer than the stockers to hang the pan on while you install.

That way, you can do it by yourself, no need for a jack.

I would probably also put a dab of blue loctite on the pan bolts, and front cover bolts - mine loosen way too easily.
 
I think you will have more success on this one by sealing the U-shaped parts of the gasket into the grooves located on the front and rear main bearing caps.

Make sense?

Otherwise the gasket will flop out of there when you are wrestling with the pan.

Then it will get pinched between the pan and the cap.

Then you will be back to the drawing board...
 
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