Issue getting power to rear wheels, TC or locker issue? (1 Viewer)

[ZigZagZero]

Hello all,

I have a 97 LX that came without CDL button and no stock lockers. It now has CDL and pin 7 mod done as well as Eaton e lockers front and rear wired to an OEM switch. The dash light for the CDL is out, but I can hear it engage and have verified that it’s at least partially working by lifting one corner off the ground and being unable to free spin it when the button is depressed.

As seen in the video on this obstacle, only my front tires were spinning when I had CDL engaged with FR/RR lockers engaged as well. I plan to replace the bulb in the dash, but I don’t think that’s my main issue so I lifted up all 4 corners today and tested some things out:


CDL Engaged (and disengaged): hand turning one front tire forward moves both rear tires in reverse

Hand turning rear tire does not move front tires, rear tires turn opposite direction

CDL and rear locker engaged: no change from above

CDL and FR/RR locked: hand turning one front tire causes the other front tire to turn in same direction, rear tires spin in reverse together

Hand turning rear does not turn front tires, rear tires spin opposite of each other **some binding is felt and this caused the front wheels to want to turn

Based on the above I assumed the rear locker is the issue, and it very well may be! But! On pavement while driving around my circle drive very slowly, I engaged the rear locker without CDL and had binding/dragging of the passenger rear tire while turning left in a circle. That would mean the rear locker is working, right? Maybe it’s an intermittent issue, but I’d really like to solve this without opening the diffs or transfer case. Any ideas?

VIDEO:

**The lockers/gears and CDL/Pin 7 were done by the PO through Land Cruiser Specialist in Austin, TX. Viscous coupler was also removed at this time.

 

[CharlieS]

Clarification but important:
If the CDL doesn't lock and illuminate the dash light, neither front or rear will lock.
There is no requirement for the rear to lock first before the front, when the dash switch is turned to lock both, the front often locks quicker.

I think this is the as delivered factory locker setup. The OP has aftermarket lockers with unknown wiring configuration, so I don't know if those assumptions hold.

As an example, I have Eaton e-lockers in my 200 that are wired directly and I am able to engage them independently, with no regard for the position of the center diff.

 

[ajax1]

Un plug cdl switch on tcase, install jumper wire into harness, does light come on? If not bad wiring, if it does sticky or bad switch, by doing this you can check the wire side
On pin 7 open side panel by your left foot. Look for the tcase box looks like size of pack of smokes and is black, see if the position 7 wire is pulled it is black with blue stripe if I remember correctly. Either way should be pulled wire just hanging there .
Pull dash and see if the cdl is plugged in, you wouldn’t be the first person with a button not plugged in.

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

Un plug cdl switch on tcase, install jumper wire into harness, does light come on? If not bad wiring, if it does sticky or bad switch, by doing this you can check the wire side
On pin 7 open side panel by your left foot. Look for the tcase box looks like size of pack of smokes and is black, see if the position 7 wire is pulled it is black with blue stripe if I remember correctly. Either way should be pulled wire just hanging there .
Pull dash and see if the cdl is plugged in, you wouldn’t be the first person with a button not plugged in.

Looks like he already did that and the light works.

 

[azusa]

PO had VC removed, do you have locking manual hubs up front?

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

When you say you can hear it engage, are you hearing a relay click on and off? Or the motor underneath?

How does the gear oil look in the tcase?

If the motor is working and timed correctly then signs point to something off internally. It's fairly easy to pull the tcase apart in the rig, just a little messy.

 

[ZigZagZero]

When you say you can hear it engage, are you hearing a relay click on and off? Or the motor underneath?

How does the gear oil look in the tcase?

If the motor is working and timed correctly then signs point to something off internally. It's fairly easy to pull the tcase apart in the rig, just a little messy.

Hear the click from the kick panel and hear the actuator as well. Gear oil looked fine, not watery or metallic.

 

[ZigZagZero]

PO had VC removed, do you have locking manual hubs up front?

No

 

[azusa]

If you haven't done this yet, with all wheels off the ground and with out locking center diff, can you hold one drive shaft and turn the other one. Then lock the center diff and do the same, report your findings.

 

[Nad Aitch]

After sitting without much use for a decade, my tc used to require forward reverse with a slight turn to engage.

I've started locking it ever time I use the truck just to exercise it (lockers too) and they're near instantaneous now to engage and disengage.

 

[ZigZagZero]

When you say you can hear it engage, are you hearing a relay click on and off? Or the motor underneath?

How does the gear oil look in the tcase?

If the motor is working and timed correctly then signs point to something off internally. It's fairly easy to pull the tcase apart in the rig, just a little messy.

Here’s a video, kinda has me leaning towards the actuator being an issue not actuating all the way? I’d rather not do a rebuild so I plan to test the box under the kick panel this weekend.

Replacing the switch on the housing didn’t change anything. Drove around after pressing the CDL button and never got a light on the dash or felt like it had locked up.

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

It sounds like it is functioning as far as the motor. I wouldn't worry about the control box at this point. The fact the motor is moving and stopping shows the box and the limit switches in the accuator are fine as well as the motor.

It's a pain, but I'd remove the accuator and see if the pinion is moving.

Report back, without reinstalling if you can. Next step is going to be moving the rack to the lock position while rotating one output to see if it locks and the light comes on.

 

[ZigZagZero]

It sounds like it is functioning as far as the motor. I wouldn't worry about the control box at this point. The fact the motor is moving and stopping shows the box and the limit switches in the accuator are fine as well as the motor.

It's a pain, but I'd remove the accuator and see if the pinion is moving.

Report back, without reinstalling if you can. Next step is going to be moving the rack to the lock position while rotating one output to see if it locks and the light comes on.

Yeah that’ll hopefully be my weekend project. I stumbled upon this thread which describes what you’re saying. Very similar symptoms except I have a CDL button: Center diff locking - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/center-diff-locking.1211787/post-13118943

 

[fjbj40]

Yeah that’ll hopefully be my weekend project. I stumbled upon this thread which describes what you’re saying. Very similar symptoms except I have a CDL button: Center diff locking - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/center-diff-locking.1211787/post-13118943

Sounds like the problem I had. Someone had the actuator off, then the actuator was engaged while off then installed so that it actually does not engage the the shaft as its supposed to.

OR, the motor turns as by the sound but the gear is actually not doing anything, either stripped, broken or whatever.

Lower the tranny as much as possible while not allowing the bolts to disengage or put a jack under it to support if your arms are that big. It gives access so the actuator is easily removed.

Its not difficult. Then just follow what I said in my post.

Lights working or not, motor making noise does not mean its coupled correctly to the xfer case, i learned this after many hours of a similar problem you are having.

You can engage the xfer by hand with the actuator removed and using your leg to spin a tire, stick your pinky down the switch hole and feel the ramp for the roller on the shaft.

 

[ZigZagZero]

Sounds like the problem I had. Someone had the actuator off, then the actuator was engaged while off then installed so that it actually does not engage the the shaft as its supposed to.

OR, the motor turns as by the sound but the gear is actually not doing anything, either stripped, broken or whatever.

Lower the tranny as much as possible while not allowing the bolts to disengage or put a jack under it to support if your arms are that big. It gives access so the actuator is easily removed.

Its not difficult. Then just follow what I said in my post.

Lights working or not, motor making noise does not mean its coupled correctly to the xfer case, i learned this after many hours of a similar problem you are having.

You can engage the xfer by hand with the actuator removed and using your leg to spin a tire, stick your pinky down the switch hole and feel the ramp for the roller on the shaft.

Sounds like my Saturday sorted then, thank you very much. Definitely glad I stumbled on your thread.