Is this sound the sway bar end link?

[cr8r]

As the title says, this certainly seems to be coming from the sway bar end link on the passenger side but just looking for any other feed back. I hear this on gravel fire roads and broken pavement on the paved roads.

How bad is end link replacement on the passenger side? I've read plenty of things about challenges on the driver KDSS end of the sway bar.

 

[bloc]

Looks to me like the lower bolt just isn't tight. See if you can pry at the inner sleeve and move it around. If so that bolt is either loose or galled/threads messed up.

 

[cr8r]

the big bottom link definitely has some play in it and I can wiggle the inner rubber bushing around in there with not a lot of force. I've thrown a wrench on it but didn't give it the business on trying to get it super tight. is there a torque spec for this lower bolt?

 

[bloc]

100 ft-lb

If you feel you tightened it but it didn't respond like normal, I'd consider pulling the bolt out and having a look at the threads before going to final torque. Note that getting the bolt back in can be tough.. usually requiring using a lever between the sway bar and frame. But at least the link will already be in the slot.. that's 3/4 of the battle usually.

 

[cr8r]

I've taken the torque wrench to it and it is properly torqued and still same issue. I have a new sway bar end link I'll be installing this week and I will update if this solves my clicking problem.

 

[bloc]

If the inner sleeve is still moving the issue isn’t the link. What did the bolt look like?

The bolt can be replaced but the threads inside the arm would be very difficult to rehab. You may be looking at a new lower arm.

 

[cr8r]

If the inner sleeve is still moving the issue isn’t the link. What did the bolt look like?

The bolt can be replaced but the threads inside the arm would be very difficult to rehab. You may be looking at a new lower arm.

Bolt threads looked ok so I'm hoping its just some issue with the the lower portion of the end link. I won't know until I get time this week to pull it all apart and more closely inspect.

 

[cr8r]

One more request, if anyone has a part number for the lower bolt in the end link on the RH side that would be very helpful. I've scoured the parts diagram and no where list the bolt that connects through to the LCA.

 

[bloc]

90119-14079

Should be the same on both sides

 

[CharlieS]

And unreasonably expensive. I think it cost me $12 at my local dealer. I forgot to torque it down after a suspension job and it came out.

 

[bloc]

If my memory serves it is something of a special bolt.. the small tapered thread end as they often use for hardware into welded frame inserts, which helps guide itself in, only much larger to handle the forces here. As opposed to the lower shock bolt that goes clear through the arm and tightens with a nut.

Not that a regular one of the appropriate size and pitch won’t work. Just that they specified one with non-standard traits to deal with the intricacies of this application.

 

[cr8r]

Appreciate the input, I have a feeling that the shop that did the suspension install properly botched something here so I'm collecting the cheap/easy replacement parts in advance. If it requires a new LCA for any reason I'm very likely going to press the installing shop to rectify this situation on their dime. I have a suspicion that an impact gun on kill mode has blown away some of the fasteners and hardware preventing it from properly clamping the base of the end link.

 

[CharlieS]

I think this was mentioned, but that bolt goes into a captive nut on the LCA, so if it is toast, a new control arm is the easiest solution. Then again, it could be as simple as the tech not doing a final torque on the bolt. I had one work its way out that way (I was the one that didn't check the torque, not a shop).

 

[cr8r]

I think this was mentioned, but that bolt goes into a captive nut on the LCA, so if it is toast, a new control arm is the easiest solution. Then again, it could be as simple as the tech not doing a final torque on the bolt. I had one work its way out that way (I was the one that didn't check the torque, not a shop).

Yeah this is where I'm frustrated with what's going on, the bolt is at, or beyond, its recommended torque. When I checked the bolt I did not completely remove it, just backed it out maybe halfway to see some threads which probably wasn't far enough to see the damage that probably exists at the end that threads into the weld nut, hence looking for the P/N for a new one. It was exceedingly difficult to get the bolt to back out at all.

I'm pretty certain that it's been cross threaded and surpasses the torque spec before the bolt/washer bottoms out and applies any clamping force on the bushing, resulting in the inner cylinder flapping around on the bolt. It's going back to the install shop this afternoon so they can be the one's to confirm that on their own so there is no suspicion of me monkeying around with it causing the issue. Appreciate everyones input on this. Lesson of the day: Do your own work if you have the means to do it.

 

[linuxgod]

You can pull the whole bolt out with the vehicle on the ground. The bolt will come in and out without any issue. The links won't move. Easy to check, the only hassle is trying to break the bolt free and then re-torque it while on the ground. If you jack up the vehicle, the sway bar end links may move though. If they do you can get them back in with a prying bar and ratchet straps to realign, just a bit of work.

If the bolt head isn't moving with that noise I suspect either the sleeve is cracked or the rubber is so far gone the sleeve is holding solid but the end link is clanking around. TBH the latter seems the most likely. Definitely seems odd that you'd have a bolt loose and making that noise without seeing movement in it.

If you need a new bolt the OEM bolt is M14-1.5 fine thread with ~3"/80mm of threads, which are a bit hard to find. You want high grade bolts, not cheap zinc ones, so make sure you're getting 8.8 or 10.9... I'm not 100% sure what's required. If the captive nut in the LCA is stripped though you'll at least need to tap a new hole, if not replace the LCAs outright. They're about $550/pair.

If you have a KDSS relo kit this is the optimal time to get longer bolts and mount the end links to the outside of the cradle like I did

 

[CharlieS]

Hmm, I had to use a prybar and ratchet straps to align mine. I must've been doing something wierd. I bet it was because I had the wheel off, and the front passenger on a jack/jackstands. That probably made the KDSS put it under tension when I compressed the driver rear?

 

[linuxgod]

Hmm, I had to use a prybar and ratchet straps to align mine. I must've been doing something wierd. I bet it was because I had the wheel off, and the front passenger on a jack/jackstands. That probably made the KDSS put it under tension when I compressed the driver rear?

Likely yes. I was able to remove mine to measure the thread pitch and bolt length when I was looking to move my end links to the outside of the cradle. The bolt came out easy and went back in similarly easily enough - no drama. But yeah if you had it in the air then the suspension might move