I just dropped a $1k on the rig over the last week and then noticed this today after pulling a trailer. I had the upper control arms replaced last week, new bushings for the sway bar, and the cv boots greased and reclamped. I also had the rear a/c motor replaced. Hopefully I just need a new outer boot.
Is this a cheap fix?
- Thread starter 99Cruiser
- Start date
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Um thats not your outer boot missing. Who did the work? Looks like your axle is backing out of the hub.
The c-clip appears to have come off the end of the axle (or they didn't put it back on). If you pop the dust cover off the end of the hub it'll either be in there or missing. Man, this is becoming more and more frequent.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks for the help. I will take it back tomorrow to the shop. Is it safe to drive it 10 miles? I just towed a camper 250 miles but didn't notice the noise until I was close to home.
I suggest you call the shop and ask them to pay for the tow if you don't feel like doing it yourself. Or use AAA, if you have it, on a flatbed.
No need to jack up the truck. Pop off the hub cap, remove the dust cap, push the axle outward from behind the hub or thread a bolt into the end and pull it towards you and install a c-clip. I would pull the hub flange (nuts and cone washers) to ensure the splines aren't damaged.
Note: there are about 6 different size C-clips that go here based on required thickness needed. These can be easily bent when removing. If you attempt to reinstall the bent clip or wrong size, it can pop off again.
Because you are hearing noise, I would personally want to see the splines to check for damage. I would also have them pull the cap with you present. If there is no clip there because they forgot to install it, they wont be able to lie and say it popped off. If you do it... they may try and argue they did nothing wrong.
And yes, I feel the shop should pay for any repairs required.
Because you are hearing noise, I would personally want to see the splines to check for damage. I would also have them pull the cap with you present. If there is no clip there because they forgot to install it, they wont be able to lie and say it popped off. If you do it... they may try and argue they did nothing wrong.
And yes, I feel the shop should pay for any repairs required.
No need to jack or remove wheel to reinstall c-clip. If you can reinstall c-clip splines are fine. Use a big pair of channel locks to twist/pull dust cover off.
You would have to remove wheel to remove drive plate (hub flange) this is rather challenging your first time. but a great learning experience should you ever grenade the front diff.
Broken/missing splines would mean truck wouldn't move unless center diff was locked. (99 on a-trac) i bet they are fine.
You would have to remove wheel to remove drive plate (hub flange) this is rather challenging your first time. but a great learning experience should you ever grenade the front diff.
Broken/missing splines would mean truck wouldn't move unless center diff was locked. (99 on a-trac) i bet they are fine.
I'd follow this if it were me. Make the shop responsible for everything. If your hearing noises, chances are something's f'ed up.
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I agree with what everyone has said here but if it were my truck I would NOT drive it in that condition for fear of getting dust/dirt or water in the exposed cavity behind the hub where it could eventually work its way into the needle bearing. Plus, it would be very difficult to get in there to effectively clean it out if it does get contaminated without removint the axle.
I would:
A) Get a ride to the dealer to get replacement clips if you need them to fix it yourelf, or
B) Call the person who did the work and have them send a flatbed truck to pick it up and let them fix it.
Just my opinion.
cp
I would:
A) Get a ride to the dealer to get replacement clips if you need them to fix it yourelf, or
B) Call the person who did the work and have them send a flatbed truck to pick it up and let them fix it.
Just my opinion.
cp
- Thread starter
- #16
I pulled the grease cap off and found the c-clip. I couldn't get the axle to budge at first, but then backed up a few feet and it was able to slide. I am having a hard time getting the c-clip on with one hand while I hold the bolt I threaded into the axle. Any tips on installing the c-clip. An extra set of hands is coming over tonight to help me with this install.
Just looked at your picture again. With the axle extended out that far I think your axle splines are VERY close to being out of the splines on the drive flange. I've never been able to pull mine out (push in....depending on which way you look at it)anywhere near that far for access for greasing the needle bearings. Maybe something else is going on here. Has anyone else been able to get theirs out that far without undoing the Ball Joint?
C-clip pliers from Sears. They're like $15 and if you ever do anything with a c-clip again it will prevent much swearing. I tried to make do with some crap HF pliers with interchangeable heads for years before finally just getting the proper pliers. They're really only useful for that one thing, but they make a potentially very frustrating thing a piece of cake.
- Thread starter
- #20
I got the c-clip back on and drove around the block and it popped off. I pulled the axle as far as it would go through the hub but I couldn't get the clip all the way in the groove. It seems that the c-clip is too big, which would seem unlikely or I can't pull the axle far enough to engage the clip. I looked at the driver's side and the axle is sticking out the same distance as the passenger side that I am trying to fix. Should I try to get a thinner c-clip? I found it easier to pull the axle through by turning the wheel to the right. It pushed it a little further out and you didn't have to hold it by the threaded bolt.