Is my '01 LC permanently retired and unsafe to drive?

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Bottom line, if you keep it or sell it I think you will come out ahead if you spend some time wire wheeling, scraping and re por15 the frame.
 
I think you will find grinding rust very therapeutic. If you're the least bit mechanical and have the tools (and if you don't... get them), have the time and space,,,, what are you waiting for get under there, get in there, get over there.... anyplace rust kind hide! You will come out ahead if you put in the time and elbow grease and I promise.... it's soooooooo satisfying to turn rust to dust and bring one of these babies back from the brink! Just do it.... I'm right there with you!
 
If anyone has any recommendations for a good New Jersey/New York/Connecticut welder or body shop mechanic (would a body mount chop shop be good for this?), please let me know.

I was going to ask @cruiserhead or @nat88toy but not sure who would be willing to take a stab at this.

There is or at least was a shop in CT that will sand blast the underside of your rig and apply a black frame paint for I want to say around $800. It's not a gentle process, but at least you will know what you're dealing with. PM me if you're interested and I'll try to find the contact info.

And for those recommending POR15, know that it will never stick to an undercarriage like this until all of the rust is removed down to bare metal and prepped with metal prep. An oil based or lanolin based fluid that stays wet is far far better than POR15 in this situation.

OP, you might enjoy this video - guy patches rusty Tundra frame and then uses bar and chain oil for protection:

 
@RND1 Sandblasting rot like this just from the underneath is slapping lipstick on a pig.
It is a popular approach here, as we are a poor Eastern European country and it is cheap, but the results are never good and lasting. When you get it back it will look amazing, but that's the problem with it - when blasting from underneath you can threat more or less only what you can see and a bit more. All the rust (and there is a ton of it here) that you can't reach will still "work" above and much sooner than later it will get underneath your shiny new paint.
Also, chassis rust from inside out and there are very few things you can do for the rust inside the chassis rails.

You either keep it going like it is, clean here and there and repair holes as they appear or go balls deep, remove body from chassis and threat everything.
 
Probably stated somewhere above, but if you go down the repair path, make sure you are well stocked on drill bits, punches and taps/thread chasers.

Good Luck!
@RND1 Sandblasting rot like this just from the underneath is slapping lipstick on a pig.
It is a popular approach here, as we are a poor Eastern European country and it is cheap, but the results are never good and lasting. When you get it back it will look amazing, but that's the problem with it - when blasting from underneath you can threat more or less only what you can see and a bit more. All the rust (and there is a ton of it here) that you can't reach will still "work" above and much sooner than later it will get underneath your shiny new paint.
Also, chassis rust from inside out and there are very few things you can do for the rust inside the chassis rails.

You either keep it going like it is, clean here and there and repair holes as they appear or go balls deep, remove body from chassis and threat everything.
Thanks all for the feedback.
It’s tough because I love driving this rust bucket and this was intended to be a weekend project/driver but frame welding is out of my realm.

my plan is to take this to a rust restoration place that was recommended earlier and at least get the bottom rust cleaned up and some NHOU oil to help stop any more rust ($500). Also going to remove the side step to prevent any more dam
this will at least allow me to assess the true state of the rust and frame before I begin to put money on any work.
If the previous welding took care of certain areas and this is all surface rust, I will keep this as a weekend driver and not any long trips. If the rust is too bad, I will sell it and take any losses. Hoping the NHOU restoration will at least make the underbody look clean, either way.

Sucks to be in this position but at least I got to drive my dream car for a little bit.

some more pictures of the rust and rocker panel

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Thanks all for the feedback.
It’s tough because I love driving this rust bucket and this was intended to be a weekend project/driver but frame welding is out of my realm.

my plan is to take this to a rust restoration place that was recommended earlier and at least get the bottom rust cleaned up and some NHOU oil to help stop any more rust ($500). Also going to remove the side step to prevent any more dam
this will at least allow me to assess the true state of the rust and frame before I begin to put money on any work.
If the previous welding took care of certain areas and this is all surface rust, I will keep this as a weekend driver and not any long trips. If the rust is too bad, I will sell it and take any losses. Hoping the NHOU restoration will at least make the underbody look clean, either way.

Sucks to be in this position but at least I got to drive my dream car for a little bit.

some more pictures of the rust and rocker panel

View attachment 2612827
View attachment 2612828

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View attachment 2612831
 
@RND1 Sandblasting rot like this just from the underneath is slapping lipstick on a pig.
It is a popular approach here, as we are a poor Eastern European country and it is cheap, but the results are never good and lasting. When you get it back it will look amazing, but that's the problem with it - when blasting from underneath you can threat more or less only what you can see and a bit more. All the rust (and there is a ton of it here) that you can't reach will still "work" above and much sooner than later it will get underneath your shiny new paint.
Also, chassis rust from inside out and there are very few things you can do for the rust inside the chassis rails.

You either keep it going like it is, clean here and there and repair holes as they appear or go balls deep, remove body from chassis and threat everything.

Spraying rustoleum or undercoating over the existing undercarriage without removing any of the scaly rust is putting lipstick on a pig (which is a favorite tactic of the used car dealer). Doing a "rustoration" and finishing with an oil or wax based protectant hardly seems like putting lipstick on a pig. At least OP can see what he's dealing with and can determine how to proceed accordingly.

Of course, doing a frame off restoration is completely different and wouldn't make financial sense for most 100's in the US.
 
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@RND1 Sandblasting rot like this just from the underneath is slapping lipstick on a pig.
It is a popular approach here, as we are a poor Eastern European country and it is cheap, but the results are never good and lasting. When you get it back it will look amazing, but that's the problem with it - when blasting from underneath you can threat more or less only what you can see and a bit more. All the rust (and there is a ton of it here) that you can't reach will still "work" above and much sooner than later it will get underneath your shiny new paint.
Also, chassis rust from inside out and there are very few things you can do for the rust inside the chassis rails.

You either keep it going like it is, clean here and there and repair holes as they appear or go balls deep, remove body from chassis and threat everything.
I like this answer based solely on the use of ball deep.
 

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