100 series physical dissection and rust case study (1 Viewer)

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As part of my restoration, I have the frame removed and stripped down which allowed me to do something of a case study on rust.

The car is from 2005, well kept from salt, used mostly in Southern Europe - Spain. I didn't think to take photos underneath when I got it, as it was more or less spotless. Fast forward 18 months and surface rust has started appearing both on the chassis and body. I have been offroading a lot, most of it through mud. During the winter I was washing it from salt as far as I could reach underneath on the driveway every couple of weeks.

Before I took the body off I had the car on a lift and meticulously cleaned underneath. There was no visible dirt or mud, it was very clean. After removing the body, it turned out that there are several areas that collect large amounts of dirt with no easy way to clean them.

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Above the rear axle, between the spare tire and the tank. If the spare tire is removed, while washing, the dirt on the carrier might be cleaned. The dirt on top of the coil seats and shock mounts is almost impossible to reach, tucked under the body. The trapped moisture slowly eats trough the shock brackets. Apparently often the reason for AHC oil leaks.

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The body area immediately above. The tubes in the middle are the end of the fuel tank neck. Some places trap dirt and again are almost impossible to reach and clean.

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The AC line brackets suffer a lot from the moisture trapped between the bracket and the insulation. The lines corrode too. That's also why often the AC leaks from somewhere in the rear and people just seal it and leave only the front. This probably was one of the few already rusted parts when I got the car.

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The tank shield (this one is for diesel) starts to rust around the holes and on the edges that drag through the mud. Mine was intact 18 months ago.

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Behind the rear axles it rusts due to all the dirt that gets trapped in the corners and the sand and stones thrown by the tires. The driver side has it worse, as there is a hollow spot behind the plastic liner that I am pulling on the photo. To get there, you have to remove the tire and unbolt the liner. Mud accumulates and starts a lot of rust. In there is the fuel neck, behind that place is an AC drain.

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The front of the body is faring much better. I guess the engine and gearbox arm it up and dry it and there are few dirt and mud pockets.

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The engine bay is spotless. Dirty thing in the middle is the hood liner seen from underneath

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Lots of seam sealer, but far from covering every seam underneath. By now most of it is cracked and is actually trapping moisture in the seams

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The wheel arches are coated with the same material as the seam seals. Coverage on mine is inadequate. Inwards, towards the chassis is thick, but outwards it's very thin to nonexistent. Road debris have started lots of rust. This is the rear passenger wheel arch. I have removed the lining in the bottom half, top is all damage from debris.

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The front wheel arches have plastic liners that protect them well. No issues there. The front of the chassis rusts around the tires, again thrown and trapped moisture, dirt, etc. Again it can corrode AHC lines that enter the shocks (rams)

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The rest rusts along the welds (mine were rust free 18 months ago) and under the various mounting plates

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While it might not be representative of each and every 100 out there, the development of rust on my car falls in line with what becomes evident at later stages with other people's cars.

The rear is having it the worst. That's why the rear axles, spare carrier, coil seats, tailgate usually have the worst rust. Judging by threads and posts the body is not particularly rusty, but one it gets rotten, it would be the skirts and wheel arches.
 
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Hard to believe all this happened in 18 months. Do I understand that correctly? It's a 2005 MY but you've owned it 18 months and you say "I didn't think to take photos underneath when I got it, as it was more or less spotless." How do you define spotless?

My take is this: You wheel in mud a lot. I mean A LOT. And there must be other external sources to this much degradation in 18months. Does you area use a lot of salt or chemicals in the winter?

Great analysis though, and great to see pics of a real world wheeler with the frame off !
 
I wheel in mud a lot, yes. I don't really like rock crawling 🙂 I power wash often.
Spotless as in no visible rust when peaking underneath. Factory treatment more or less intact on frame, welds, etc. The areas that are particularly rusty now and hidden were probably rusty already back then, but there was no surface rust. Salt is used here, but nothing extreme.

I am not looking for explanation or validation why it rusts. I already know that. Just sharing some notes on progress and likely reason that is hard to observe otherwise.
 
I really HATE MUD.
 
1. Beautiful blue color, and 2, really interesting to see where mud might accumulate over time after wheeling, along with your analysis on failure of the common items and why. More river crossing LOL
 
Update with a photo that I missed. This is the driver side wheel arch behind the plastic liner. The mud stratification is clearly visible (more so live, compared to the photo). I can pinpoint different local areas based on the mud colour. There is a small plant that has sprouted in the middle lol! The passenger side had it much better with some, but not that much mud. Moisture trapped here starts rust on the seams and towards the sills. The plastic liner and clips are intact.

For northern folks that do not wheel in mud nearly that much, this is still a concern as there was lots of salt trapped there as well. The seam sealer is inadequate and rust has already started in that seam in there.

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Thanks for sharing. I hate seeing how much rust my rig has also developed in a short period of time as well. It came from Las Vegas and was rust free. 2 years later and I have the same developments as you posted.


A few notes to add that may help with some of those spots.:

If you don't have your spare tire or the plate it mounts to still in place it gives enough space to crawl up under there. From there with a normal hose I can flush out the top of the gas tank and the top of the rear shock mounts. They pack with mud and crap so easily. I usually need to reach my hand up onto the rear shock towers while flushing with water to break it all up.

I also like to flush the hose through all the frame holes as I tend to see mouse nests and other dirty water come flowing out of there. Same goes for that cross member above the rear axle.
 
Love this thread and everything @Moridinbg posts here.

Seeing this gives me the blueprint of how to coat things even more during my annual cosmoline coating sessions.

I almost hate seam sealer more than nothing at all since that stuff just seems to trap moisture when it's compromised and you are done for.
 
All 100s are more than 15 years old by now, so not that surprising that the seam sealer has started to fail. I expect examples from hot climates to fare worse in that regard, but then moisture and salt should not be an issue there.
 

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