Is it possible to relocate rear shock bottom mount?

[spressomon]

Check out Spressomon's build tread he relocated both top and bottom rear shock mounts for some custom Fox shocks.

Uh oh...now you've done it.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

I thought droop didn't matter/count.

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

You only give up compression IF it was being used in the first place. On the front you will never come close to full compression on stock length shocks even when on the factory bumpstops. As for additional droop, I've got 160k+ miles on my Original CV's, lower ball joints and tie rod ends. 100k miles lifted, 60K+ miles with additional droop.

Yes, you are correct, there is no gain in travel with this mod. You gain some here but you lose it there. But what is changing is the percentage of up-travel vs down-travel. Let's just say there is 8" of travel in the front and 10" in the rear. The stock front suspension is roughly 50/50 (up/down). The stock rear suspension is maybe 40/60?

Now lift the suspension 2" all around without doing anything else and you have roughly 75/25% or 2" of down travel in the front and 60/40 (4" down) in the rear. By comparison, most rock buggies would be maybe 20/80. Desert racers might be 50/50. What is best for you? I don't know.

But for me, 60/40 in the rear seemed like it lifted a wheel more often. The front will for sure lift a wheel more often with just 2" of down travel. I'd like to gain more droop in the front while sacrificing some compression but it seems like the steering arms, cv's and ball joints are putting up a good fight. YMMV... just my 2 cents.

 

[hoser]

Carl, do you have a picture of your 100 showing the front suspension, one side fully drooped and the other side compressed?

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

I dont have any pics, but I did record measurements of the front. I dont have measurements on the rear because rear travel is adequate IMO:

-With tbar & shock removed and the front suspension compressed to bumpstops there is 14" mount to mount. OME shock compressed is 11.3, so even if you factored a bit extra for the bumpstop to compress there is at least 2.5" of shock travel that will never be used. Thus running a longer shock will not limit compressed travel.

Dont want to get to off topic as this was about AHC on the rear. Moving a shock mount is not a big deal in most of 4x4 world, but in the LC world is voodoo magic. I dont know that I would go through the trouble to keep the ahc though.

Carl, do you have a picture of your 100 showing the front suspension, one side fully drooped and the other side compressed?

 

[hoser]

My comment about the front extended length shocks and steering problems is because it appears if we go with too much (2") extra droop in the front, the steering goes rapidly into an extreme toe-in position. I'll start a new thread after some more testing.

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

droop

Mine has droop as much as safely allowed by tie rod ends. Works great I have 160k miles on orig cv's and steering, and 60k of it with max droop available. The people that have the torque steer issues are the ones that crank 3+ inches height.

My comment about the front extended length shocks and steering problems is because it appears if we go with too much (2") extra droop in the front, the steering goes rapidly into an extreme toe-in position. I'll start a new thread after some more testing.

 

[2000UZJ]

Does anybody have a link to the kit Hoser pictured? Is there a kit for the top of the shock as well or only bottom?