Intro: New (to me) FJ45 (1 Viewer)

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Buckeye,

Among other differences and missing parts, there are rubber triangular bump stops on the outboard rear axles to limit suspension compression for the pickup bed. Yours appear to be missing.
 
Would be curious of the VIN on the right frame rail at the front. 8/80 the US required seventeen digits on the VIN. The plaque on the A pillar and on the firewall were the only two that had seventeen digits VIN. The one on the frame was the shorter one used for the rest of the world. Since these were shipped as kits and not a complete vehicle wonder if the frame VIN is the same as the plaque. Don't think Toyota ever made anywhere near 900,000 FJ45. Thinking the kit versions had their own VIN that were much higher so they would never overlap.
 
Would be curious of the VIN on the right frame rail at the front. 8/80 the US required seventeen digits on the VIN. The plaque on the A pillar and on the firewall were the only two that had seventeen digits VIN. The one on the frame was the shorter one used for the rest of the world. Since these were shipped as kits and not a complete vehicle wonder if the frame VIN is the same as the plaque. Don't think Toyota ever made anywhere near 900,000 FJ45. Thinking the kit versions had their own VIN that were much higher so they would never overlap.

Frame number matches that on the plaque, 905256
 
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Cut the stripped nut off and saved the pulley and clutch, however the water pump from Orilleys has a smaller pulley stud diameter than the pump on the engine. Working with SOR to source, stay tuned. Venezuelan trucks are proving interesting to work on.
 
So... the Venezuelan truck has been as much fun as everyone predicted... home made parts holding things together, everything is missing at least one bolt, and fixing one problem causes another part to fail somewhere else.

But I’m getting there! Alternator, water pump, radiator hoses are all replaced. Working on rebuilding the parking break lever and cable, clutch master and release cylinders, u joints, TREs, and eventually the whole messed up wiring harness.

Question for you all: I don’t remember this hole in the exhaust manifold being present before and I think I’d remember removing something, but fact of the matter is it’s there and causing the truck to idle poorly. Anyone know what went in this hole and if I can just fill it with a bolt or if I should approach it differently?

thanks

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That is a vacuum leak and will make it run poorly. Did it run poorly b4?
 
That is a vacuum leak and will make it run poorly. Did it run poorly b4?

It didn’t before getting it home but I’ve been running into several problems that have crept up. I don’t remember removing anything from the hole causing the vacuum issue and I don’t remember anything being there before. Is something supposed to be attached at this point? Anyone know if I can just block it off with a bolt or is that a bad idea? Obviously the vacuum issue needs to be rectified.
 
I only ask how it was running b4, because if it were blkd off b4, it would run
better than it does now. It needs to be blocked off.
 
To just be clear the aluminum piece is the intake manifold. The exhaust is cast iron. It would only cause a noisy leak and not a vacuum leak like the intake which needs to be addressed. Is the hole threaded. Thread it could just install a plug unless something that goes there is missing.

Have you dated the 2F. The valve cover appears to be from a 8/80+ plus which would be a 81 model or newer.
 
To just be clear the aluminum piece is the intake manifold. The exhaust is cast iron. It would only cause a noisy leak and not a vacuum leak like the intake which needs to be addressed. Is the hole threaded. Thread it could just install a plug unless something that goes there is missing.

Have you dated the 2F. The valve cover appears to be from a 8/80+ plus which would be a 81 model or newer.

Thank you for the correction on the manifold, and I do believe the hole is threaded. SOR and I think the truck is after 8/80 and possibly up to an ‘84
 

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