Intermittent whine on 3B

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I can't find any correlations yet, but now frequently when I start the 42 I'm getting a high pitched whine, not too loud (can't hear it on freeway), pitch consistent with rpms. I know this could be anything, but I thought I'd float it out here to see if there is a common issue folks know about.

Tx,
B:beer:
 
where does it sound like its coming from? Its not amp whine through the speakers?
 
Chang-kuao-lo said:
Compression leak?

Don't say that!

Definitely not stereo related--it was turned off. Unless there's some funny feedback in the system. I have a cheesy 24-12volt converter and just a head unit in a tuffy box.


I'll do some more listening tomorrow and maybe get my mech's stethoscope out of storage (which I shoulda done before I posted, I know, sorry).
 
From the banana peel mechanic:

Always check the belt first. Those &*$# things are capable of lots of worrisome sounds!

;-)
Happy Trails! N
 
I have found that a loose pinion nut can cause that whine. Check your pinions for wiggly-ness.

Craig.
 
PS pump? Mine whines like a sonofagun when it's cold out...
 
My guess first off would be the alternator bearing. You stated that it is intermittent.... alternator kicks in, loads up bearing -whines. Alt kicks off, not loading bearing, no whine....

Just a thought? Can you use a stethescope @ idle with the hood up? Try turning your lights on and see if it starts, then off to see if it quits?
 
alt bearing, belt tensioner bearing, water pump bearing, glazed belts, power steering.

One thing you can do is tighten the belts. If the squeel goes away then you can narrow it down.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions--you guys were of course right on, with the prize going to Ishobie though he did have a bit of a shotgun approach. Went from a wine to a mild scraping/rubbing sound today so I started playing with the belts...

Should the water pump creak when you turn it back and forth by hand?

I didn't think so. Recommendations? They're pretty cheap, so I imagine it's best to just replace the whole unit instead of going after a bearing as I would on an alt. Never done this on a 3B or diesel--can't imagine it's any big deal but any tips would be welcome, especially of the "while you have it apart don't forget to..." variety.

Also, what is your assessment of driving this until I replace? I'm confident in the temp gauge, so worst case is it seizes, I fry a belt, and have to get towed yeah?

Cheers, thanks again, and Merry Christmas everybody!

B
 
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OK update...

I just put the belt back on and......... no noise.

The mild scraping sound was there since I bought the truck and I thought it was just part of the 3B noisiness (I know, newb). The whine happened when cold; today it is very warm; belt retensioned.... no noise.

Again, recommendations---I don't want to replace the water pump if I don't have to. On the other hand, I think it should spin freely by hand, to the bearing is definitely going, but maybe the right tension on the belt will let it last...

Normally I would just replace something if there is any question, but I'm really hurting $$$ wise right now and don't want to do something unnecessary.

All opinions considered.

Tnx,
B

BTW should there be a tensioner on the Alt? Was kinda hard to retension it.

(FJ60 alts have tensioners on them.)
 
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I think it is a good idea to replace the pump (with a toyota unit), if there is the slightest doubt that it could be bad. Bad pump-overheating-engine dead.
cheers,
Jan

Diescipel said:
OK update...

I just put the belt back on and......... no noise.

The mild scraping sound was there since I bought the truck and I thought it was just part of the 3B noisiness (I know, newb). The whine happened when cold; today it is very warm; belt retensioned.... no noise.

Again, recommendations---I don't want to replace the water pump if I don't have to. On the other hand, I think it should spin freely by hand, to the bearing is definitely going, but maybe the right tension on the belt will let it last...

Normally I would just replace something if there is any question, but I'm really hurting $$$ wise right now and don't want to do something unnecessary.

All opinions considered.

Tnx,
B

BTW should there be a tensioner on the Alt? Was kinda hard to retension it.

(FJ60 alts have tensioners on them.)
 
Jan-78FJ40 said:
I think it is a good idea to replace the pump (with a toyota unit), if there is the slightest doubt that it could be bad. Bad pump-overheating-engine dead. cheers, Jan

While I would normally agree, and while I don't recommend leaving it...there is/was vicious rumour floating around years ago on the DTLC about a few fellas who had rads/and/or/waterpumps fail on 3B equipped vehicles. They drove them a number of miles home. Don't recall the exact details, cept there were at least two people who had done it, at two different time...with no ill effect. They probably were not working it too much either though...

Of course, this is in the great white north, where igloos are year round accommodations...:D

You had the belts off, and turned the clutch fan blades, and the waterpump was sqeaking?

I've a new 3B waterpump in stores for my 1983-3B and it there is "some" resistance when turning it...as in it does not keep spinning when you release it.

One way to check the waterpump is to grab the clutch part, move it back and forth (on the vertical plane) to see if there is any movement in the bearing. Do this with no belt on.

hth's

gb
 
and what is the engiens runnning like now a couple years later?
sometimes it takes some time for the result of a overheating, i would not rush to say no damage done till i pulled the head and checked it out...
i beleive Bruce L drove this BJ70 all the way back form the coast with a poor cooling system...
 
Well, the grating/scraping sound was gone but the high pitched whine was back tonight.

I did check for lateral/up-down play in all the accessories and none had it, except maybe the alt a little, but it otherwise spun nicely. Water pump didn't.

The best I can do describing the water pump noise is as I said a creaking sound when turned slowly by hand, in both directions. Sorta like a hinge that needs oil. Wasn't that much resistance really, just noise.

Well time to bite the bullet, or the credit card I guess.

Is the $135 CAD from 4wheel Auto a good deal?

B
 
Diescipel said:
Is the $135 CAD from 4wheel Auto a good deal?

B

They just get them reman'ed. I guess they take your core for that price?

Do a comparison with Toyota and try Napa. Although I doubt they show the diesel in the Napa database, possibly crappy tire?

I am going to guess that 135, at 4wheel is OK.

But if Toyota was 160 for a new one, I would just buy that.
 
I'm down in California so my options can be limited... anybody got a part no. off hand? Maybe I can fool the local Toyota dealer in getting me a non-USA part.
 
Diescipel said:
I'm down in California so my options can be limited... anybody got a part no. off hand? Maybe I can fool the local Toyota dealer in getting me a non-USA part.

Here are 2 contacts that can both get you the pump, and it should be considerably less than 160$.

the part number is 16100-59105

Tracy at Hilltop Toyota, BC: Tue to Sat
888 290-3388

Dan at American Toyota
800 432-6668 ext 8

good luck,
Jan
 

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