Well, I don’t think led is my door light problem. I unplugged all the headlights and my door courtesy lights and running board lights only flash when I hit the unlock button. Tail lights are definitely filaments. I do have a fog light/ driving light out, but I don’t think that’s the problem either
Intermittent Key Fob Problems (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rednexus
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- Thread starter
- #22
Had the headlights on this PM around dusk when running some errands. Forgot to turn them off, and no lock with a keyfob. Turned them off and the GX immediately locked with the keyfob. Still early but I'm pretty confident at this point that it's the LEDs, and will update this thread if it turns out being something else.
Still liking the LED's and brightness relative to the incandescent turn/tail/brake/reverse/plate/marker lights, so they are staying even though they are likely the cause of the problem.
Still liking the LED's and brightness relative to the incandescent turn/tail/brake/reverse/plate/marker lights, so they are staying even though they are likely the cause of the problem.
Yeah. After a week or so it was already second nature to turn the lights off.
Any update to this? I am glad I found this thread as I am facing the same issue and have also come to the conclusion it is likely from the led conversion. For me it also became extremely noticeable after doing the tails and the front side marker lights. Just got another set of led bulbs in to see if that helps at all. I also am running the Diode Dynamics SmartTap.
Well last night I tried switching out all three lights in the tails from some 'cheap amazon LED' to some 'less-cheap-amazon-LED', I also tried lasfit LED headlight bulbs since those were different and I had seen posted about. Same exact thing. I am pretty motivated to figure this out so I will keep trying other things and update here if I find something that works. This is just annoying enough to me that I can not just let it sit 
Does anyone in here have experience with Diode Dynamics LED headlight bulbs or other bulbs? I know their pod lights are pretty solid but I have not used their LED. Was curious if they might be successful where the cheap amazon options have fallen short.
Current setup: Lock unresponsive
Low/High Beam: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C8NMK4K2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Front Turn: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BXP49Q4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Side Marker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R7LKT38/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Rear Tail: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08261B9WW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Rear Turn: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CMSD8CS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
DD Smart Tap: https://www.diodedynamics.com/smart...MIxPyd3t6jhQMV31xHAR2-wAaeEAAYASAAEgKXmfD_BwE
Does anyone in here have experience with Diode Dynamics LED headlight bulbs or other bulbs? I know their pod lights are pretty solid but I have not used their LED. Was curious if they might be successful where the cheap amazon options have fallen short.
Current setup: Lock unresponsive
Low/High Beam: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C8NMK4K2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Front Turn: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BXP49Q4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Side Marker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R7LKT38/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Rear Tail: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08261B9WW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Rear Turn: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CMSD8CS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
DD Smart Tap: https://www.diodedynamics.com/smart...MIxPyd3t6jhQMV31xHAR2-wAaeEAAYASAAEgKXmfD_BwE
- Thread starter
- #27
I've just gotten used to it on mine. It was vastly less frustrating when I learned the cause; normally I just turn the lights off prior to walking away from the rig (or lock it via the door switch). Diode Dynamics lights are $$$, though if you install them and find they work, please let me know 
. IMO it's worth dealing with the key fob issues to have the LEDs which are much brighter than the OEM lights.
. IMO it's worth dealing with the key fob issues to have the LEDs which are much brighter than the OEM lights.Ok, interesting results today:
I replaced the low beams with standard halogen H11 (Sylvania H11 XtraVision) and nothing changed.
The lock was still unresponsive when the lights were on. This makes it seem like the LED low beams are not, at least, the only issue. At this point I am only waiting for canbus error free side marker and front turn signal/drl bulbs that should arrive by this weekend. If none of this is successful I think my next move will be reverting all back to halogen and then individually replacing bulbs until the culprit is found. Will continue to update my findings here.
I replaced the low beams with standard halogen H11 (Sylvania H11 XtraVision) and nothing changed.
The lock was still unresponsive when the lights were on. This makes it seem like the LED low beams are not, at least, the only issue. At this point I am only waiting for canbus error free side marker and front turn signal/drl bulbs that should arrive by this weekend. If none of this is successful I think my next move will be reverting all back to halogen and then individually replacing bulbs until the culprit is found. Will continue to update my findings here.
This may not help, but I've been listening to this with some interest as a tinkerer...
I'm 100% LED, from headlights, to vanity mirrors and have never experienced this issue. How did y'all remediate hyperflash? I know there's a bunch of ways, but I did the shunt filing (narrowing) inside the actual flasher controller. I preferred this option since it "physically" increase current load across the actual component that registers it. No hyper flash, no remote issues. I only mention this because I wonder if the remote function is disabled or enabled by a current reading in the light system. (Maybe the signal for a remote inhibit for an open door is based on that load or lack thereof) If so, the flasher shunt may be what produces that signal. I'm no electronics whiz by any means, so if this sound dumb to y'all, it probably is, lol.
- Thread starter
- #30
I addressed the hyperflash issue by grinding down the shunt as well. It took a few rounds of grinding to get rid of it and the shunt is rather tiny. I don't think they are related; I think it's due to interference between the 2002-era remote technology and interference by whatever signal the LEDs are giving out that wasn't considered by the LED designers. I landed on this theory because the remote actually works if I'm standing at the back of the GX when I lock it. Otherwise, it does not work at all with the lights on. So it's something in the front and probably signal-related.
I actually didn't have the problem with LED headlights only. My gut feel is that it's some of the other lights - perhaps the DRLs below the headlights or the side marker lights.
I actually didn't have the problem with LED headlights only. My gut feel is that it's some of the other lights - perhaps the DRLs below the headlights or the side marker lights.
Thanks for chiming in! My love of tinkering is what has me coming back to this one too.
I started with my interior led and then did my low beams and high beams, then my turn signals and rears. I resolved my hyperflash using the diode dynamics smart tap. I had two different Audi recently and loved the “tap” for the turn signal to flash a few times for a lane change. Based on my research before installing the other perk of the smart tap was that it would (apparently) allow for use with any LED without issue. This claim prompted me to buy some cheap basic LED for the rest of the lights and that is when the issue arose from me. Another perk/side effect of the smart tap is that the drl/turn signal light is deactivated when running and it only functions as a turn signal.
I completely concur with your conclusion that this is due to interference of some kind as I also have pretty good luck locking from behind my gx as well. It is in front and to the side that are the worst. And yes, I as well did not become acutely aware of this until after doing the drl, side marker, and tails… which I sadly did all at once. That plus now the halogen bulbs in place with the same result… probably not the LED headlights!
Well that is unfortunate to hear but possibly very helpful.
I was discussing this issue earlier with my friend who has a 3rd gen tacoma and he told me that there was a setting in his head unit that controlled how long the lights stayed on after the key was removed and that there was an option that would turn them off immediately. I wonder if there is any setting like that for us we could access via techstream that could just essentially bypass the cause of this entirety.
I have a techstream cable and this has prompted me to finally get it installed on something and so I will be working on that this weekend. From my research thus far on the matter, it seems that other Lexus of the same year have 4 options (off/30/60/90 seconds) for how long the lights will stay on after removing key and exiting the car. The "off" option, as I understand it would result in the lights (in both Auto and On) remaining on when the key is removed from the ignition but switching off as soon as the door is opened.
Sorry for the delay on getting back to this. I had a lot on my plate to get done both with the GX and for work before getting to Big Bend last weekend.
Part of what I worked on was ordering about 15 different LED lights for the front and back in all location, along with getting new halogen high and low beams for the headlights... none of them solved the issue.
HOWEVER
I can now say with almost 100% certainty, my issue is caused by the tail lights, and I am pretty certain it is the bottom bulb.
The testing that proved successful was done by:
1) Removing both tail light housings
2) Started the car with the headlights set to auto in a dark parking garage
3) Headlights activated
4) turn off car and run a distance away (front left)
5) Press Lock on key
6) Success!
7) Connect Tail light housing
8) Repeat steps 2-5
9) lock unsuccessful
10) continue pressing lock - friend disconnects tail light housing
11) Immediate success
12) Repeat test 2 (starting with housing connected, disconnecting from location that is not working, and immediately locks)
We then tried the above test again but with each bulb in the tail light housing and the bottom bulb seems to be the only one that impacts the key locking while in front of the vehicle. locking at the rear is unaffected. None of the LED I tried were successful (ranging in price from roughly $8-$60). I also emailed diode dynamics regarding these issues to see if they had any insight and I never heard anything back from them, so no news there. I have not attempted to adjust the vehicle settings in techstream yet (C-Best) but will update here again if I find success there
Part of what I worked on was ordering about 15 different LED lights for the front and back in all location, along with getting new halogen high and low beams for the headlights... none of them solved the issue.
HOWEVER
I can now say with almost 100% certainty, my issue is caused by the tail lights, and I am pretty certain it is the bottom bulb.
The testing that proved successful was done by:
1) Removing both tail light housings
2) Started the car with the headlights set to auto in a dark parking garage
3) Headlights activated
4) turn off car and run a distance away (front left)
5) Press Lock on key
6) Success!
7) Connect Tail light housing
8) Repeat steps 2-5
9) lock unsuccessful
10) continue pressing lock - friend disconnects tail light housing
11) Immediate success
12) Repeat test 2 (starting with housing connected, disconnecting from location that is not working, and immediately locks)
We then tried the above test again but with each bulb in the tail light housing and the bottom bulb seems to be the only one that impacts the key locking while in front of the vehicle. locking at the rear is unaffected. None of the LED I tried were successful (ranging in price from roughly $8-$60). I also emailed diode dynamics regarding these issues to see if they had any insight and I never heard anything back from them, so no news there. I have not attempted to adjust the vehicle settings in techstream yet (C-Best) but will update here again if I find success there
had similar issues to the point I almost bought an alarm system just to get a different fob, but then found something that pointed to interior led lighting being the cause. When you have the switch set to interior lights on with the doors I have fairly crappy range and signal even pressing the keyless on the handle is hit or miss. but when it is set to off I get 90% consistency with locking and unlocking.
Interesting! My interior lights have been off for me this entire time so not totally happening for me the same way but an interesting data point on this issue. I will try a few things with this myself. This is still probably my biggest gripe with my car, but I also still need to try messing with the C-Best settings in Techstream.
Any resolution? I’m having the same issue and a tech suggested replacing junction box
I finally got around to setting up techstream and changing my car so the lights turn off immediately when the door opens after turning engine off - no delay. This seems to have resolved my issues. I did this about two weeks ago and have not gotten annoyed when trying to lock my car yet. Will return here if the issue arrises again but this certainly seems to have helped.
