Intermittant starter

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Damn...just yanked mine out to get it checked out and it is a NAPA Reman unit, I can't find a ND or Nippon Denso stamp or tag anywhere. If it isn't OEM that may be why I am having problems at only 21K on it. I guess the PO was a penny pincher. Now do I get this rebuilt today and get it running or track down an OEM Reman. I pulled the the cap on the contact housing and everything in there was as shiny as a brand new penny so I don't think the contacts are the issue.
 
The company "Factory Auto Parts" does not advertise that it sells to the public, but they do. They have quite a few warehouses. I would try to see if there is one somewhere near you. I get a significant discount at NAPA thru my company, but FMP has them beat almost every time and carries OEM parts.

Good Luck, Dennis
 
Thanks for the heads up on the Factory Auto Parts but I got it rebuilt at my local shop within a couple of hours. Turns out as many of you probably know but I didn't, that Napa just rebuilt an OEM unit. But rebuilt it poorly, there were quite a few things wrong with it but only one that effected my hot starting problem directly. They offered up me the old parts so I could see what was wrong but I passed and just took my newly rebuilt home and installed it.

I hope not to bump this thread again, unless it's a 100K miles from now!
 
SOB!!! Happened again, going back to starter shop Monday and talking about the solenoid.
 
SOB!!! Happened again, going back to starter shop Monday and talking about the solenoid.

Don't forget to check your ignition switch too. The switch contacts could be worn enough to cause enough of a voltage drop across the contact to prevent the starter solenoid from engaging. (An accumulation of voltage drops could be enough to prevent the solenoid from working properly.)
 
Don't forget to check your ignition switch too. The switch contacts could be worn enough to cause enough of a voltage drop across the contact to prevent the starter solenoid from engaging. (An accumulation of voltage drops could be enough to prevent the solenoid from working properly.)

very true! good point.

Knock on wood, i have a remaned starter and have yet to have a starting issue since (going on 1 month and it's been super hot 99degrees)
 
I have bypassed the ignition and have a wire from the starter ignition terminal to the battery which is switched. I turn the key on and then hit the switch to start it. Tried all day to get the starter to fail with no luck. I spoke with the starter shop and they said this would be a great way to rule out the ignition to the solenoid if I can get it to fail by doing this bypass. I will keep trying and if I can't get it to fail then I will start looking at the ignition switch and wires/relays to the starter.
 
Has started every single time with the bypass.

Checked the voltage at the wire from the ignition while turning the key to start. When the engine is cold I got 11.9 volts and when I had driven it awhile and would normally get the no start problem it registered 11.4 volts. The battery voltage is 12.7 with the engine off.

Is this decrease in voltage enough to not throw the solenoid, I am assuming so. If this is the problem what would likely be the culprit? The ignition switch? I would think it would be something in the engine bay due to the heat problem and not something on the interior side of the firewall.
 
Has started every single time with the bypass.

Checked the voltage at the wire from the ignition while turning the key to start. When the engine is cold I got 11.9 volts and when I had driven it awhile and would normally get the no start problem it registered 11.4 volts. The battery voltage is 12.7 with the engine off.

Is this decrease in voltage enough to not throw the solenoid, I am assuming so. If this is the problem what would likely be the culprit? The ignition switch? I would think it would be something in the engine bay due to the heat problem and not something on the interior side of the firewall.

Could be a symptom of the overall problem. The fact that (cumulative) voltage drop(s) affects a bad solenoid. Whereas a good solenoid can overcome those voltage drops. That's why it starts with your bypass. It also bypasses those voltage drops sight unseen. I still suspect its the solenoid. Your symptoms are similar to my situation. I'd have to wait for it to cool down before it started up again. All the while jiggling wires thinking I had the magic touch when it started. I found out heat just exacerbates the situation and makes the bad solenoid even touchier. At this point (heat) makes it a crapshoot when starting. I'm betting its the solenoid. Replace it and be on your merry way. :D
 
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Okay,

This is the follow-up to this post. I know it's been awhile, but since I really don't drive my LC much, the intermittent starter issue really didn't bother me too much. Over the weekend, I switched out the Bosch starter to an OEM I got from CDAN. Didn't want to take the time and rebuild a Bosch. Would rather start off with OEM and go from there. All my problems are gone and everything is good. Thanks everyone for your help.
 
Problem found and fixed!

My starter problem happened to be a broken wire connector in the harness plug that attaches to the P/N safety switch located on the side of the tranny. I ordered a new plug and wire splices from CDAN and fixed the problem. I was able to troubleshoot this by checking for power at various locations using my wiring diagram and was able to pinpoint the problem.

You can see one power lead is broken and the other is corroded...all brand new now.
PN Switch 1.webp
 
Great follow-up! Makes me wonder. At least i know i have a new starter now, so if i get issues again i know the first place i'm looking.
 
I'll add my 2 cents in here too. My NSS (aka Park/Neutral Position switch or something to that effect) was loose. The bolt that you can see right under the connector in TOY350's picture was loose, which allowed the NSS to wiggle fore and aft (it has a slot to allow for adjustment). I lined it up as per the FSM (AT 36 for a 96), torqued down the bolt, and no problems two months later. Before I fixed it, my intermittant start was becoming more and more frequent, presumably as the bolt loosened up.

Might also be something to check each time you grease your U-joints.
 
I think I've finally rid myself of the intermittent start. It seemed to only affect me when it was real wet and/or cold. I think I've had it thru 3-4 winters now, and it always disappears in the warmer months.

Up until this weekend I had done:
-Replacing the contacts "helped" but it eventually returned. Did that approx 4 years ago.

-Replaced all the battery & ground cables with the set from Urban Cruisers this summer, along with a new battery.


Neither had a lasting affect. Lately in addition to some complete no starts, where I had to just wait and keep trying and eventually it would start (sometimes 5min, sometimes 20min). There seemed to be a big delay, I would turn the key, and it would take a few seconds before the starter reacted. And while starting it would tend to skip, or hitch, and then continue to start..

Ron & Toy350's discussion here about increased resistance in the wires or potentially in the solenoid itself convinced me to just bite the bullet and replace the starter/solenoid.. I had Cdan throw in a new ignition switch with the order as well..

So far after 3 days, seems night and day different. Starter fires immediately, and there are no skips or grinds mid start.

Will obviously have to wait and see if the no start situation returns when it gets cold here again, but for those that have had this intermittent start plaguing them, my money is on the solenoid if its not as simple as the contacts, or bad connections/corroded plugs, etc.....

:beer:
 
To follow up with this, it turns out that I had the EXACT same problem as TOY350. My connectors and wire splices looked like the twins of the picture he posted above. Same wire, same break, same corrosion on the other terminal. Two repair terminals (82998-12480) and one connector (90980-11332) later, my truck is back to normal.
 
To follow up with this, it turns out that I had the EXACT same problem as TOY350. My connectors and wire splices looked like the twins of the picture he posted above. Same wire, same break, same corrosion on the other terminal. Two repair terminals (82998-12480) and one connector (90980-11332) later, my truck is back to normal.

Glad you solved it! Don't you feel so much better when you go to turn that key :D
 

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