Interchanging 4Runner ABS Pump... questions:

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I've covered the country looking for a used brake booster assembly for the 100. There are apparently no 100s in junk yards, at least none with the brake booster assembly. A few of the guys I talked to were pretty sure the assembly for the 4Runner is the same as the 100 Series. But, the part numbers are different.

I talked to a guy (who has the parts for all years of the 4Runner) said he's 99% certain the assembly is the same... "If anything, the modules may be different, but you could swap yours over if it's good".

That all sounds good... if I can confirm it. I really like the idea of spending $350 instead of $1,700.

Suggestions on how I can verify this?

Thanks!
 
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Pascagoula Auto Salvage has a 98/99 in their yard. Engine has been pulled but I thought the brake booster might still be there. I got a spindle off of it about a month ago or so.
 
Pascagoula Auto Salvage has a 98/99 in their yard. Engine has been pulled but I thought the brake booster might still be there. I got a spindle off of it about a month ago or so.

I don't think the 98/99 is the same booster/pump assembly
 
The biggest difference between early and late booster/MC would be 1 or 2 rear brake circuits/outputs. The later ones with vsc/atrac etc have one circuit for each rear brake, while the earlier ones have only one pipe going to a Tee at the rear axle. Do you find the same on the 4runner?

If only the booster is faulty, it might be poss to swap only the booster pump and accumulator between the two??

There is also a thread on repairing the booster motor in here somewhere.
 
A motor is a motor. The ABS/VSC/ATRAC system is completely blind to the pump/motor. It relies on reserve pressure from the accumulator to do its thing. As long as the motor bolts up and pressurizes the system I would *think* you'd be fine. If it works, then your only concern is longevity/duty cycle; knowing whether it meets the LC design criteria would be impossible unless you could trace the motor back to the same manufacturer spec.

That said, with an aging 100 fleet, and expensive part, an a seemingly endless supply of 4R donors I would think a motor swap would be a high value fix.
 
A motor is a motor.

THIS! If the mounting flange bolts up and the shaft is the same diameter it should be a direct replacement. If the original motor shaft has an eccentric on it that will nee to be moved over to the new motor. In some designs the shaft eccentric drives the pump.

Someone needs to try this and post the results. Could be/should be a low cost solution to the typical ABS motor failure. The alternative is removing and rebuilding the motor. That's a simple DIY or an auto electrician should do it for $120 or so.
 
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