intake and exaust manifold warped beyond repair.

[Droopynut]

My Fj60 has been at the shop for weeks because it ran like crap. The verdict was a warped intake and exaust manifold. The mechanic says I need new ones and it will cost me around $850. What do you guys think of that price? I think I could get them cheaper myself.

Is this a common problem with these trucks? It's only got 120k miles on it.
If he can put the manifolds back on correctly, I would hope that this problem wouldn't happen agian any time soon.

DAN

 

[Mace]

Peruse the used sections for the manifolds. You shoudl be able to get good udes ones for less than $100 each..

 

[LoneRanger]

My Fj60 has been at the shop for weeks because it ran like crap. The verdict was a warped intake and exaust manifold. The mechanic says I need new ones and it will cost me around $850. What do you guys think of that price? I think I could get them cheaper myself.

Is this a common problem with these trucks? It's only got 120k miles on it.
If he can put the manifolds back on correctly, I would hope that this problem wouldn't happen agian any time soon.

DAN

Did he say what was wrong with them that they couldn't be ground back into shape? My truck has 170k and I am having the manifolds machined and will put them back on myself. Total cost: ca $100. Just my experience. First time I've done this.

Followup: Cruiserparts.net has this: Intake w/Exhaust 81 - 87 Get both Manifolds fully assembled $250 + shipping (ca $45.00)

I just bought a very good head from them.

 

[Tinker]

I have a pair of good, clean ones off my '83. PM me if you're interested. Also one like-new & one near-new carb isolator.

 

[BigGun J]

The local machine shop could not turn mine off my 85. I took my time with the belt sander, straight edge and .005 feeler. It is still on blocks so I have not had the opportunity to run her yet. For me, it was worth a try.

1985 FJ60 on blocks but I'm getting closer. Well hope fully.

Jim

 

[vtcruiser60]

Having your manifolds machined (also called being planed or decked) is a standard procedure for a machine shop. Since the land cruiser manifolds are in two pieces and made from two metals (aluminum and cast iron) it is best to leave them connected while planing. The machine shop places them on a large belt sander to level them out. I had mine done over the winter for $30.

I doubt that they are too warped to be fixed for less than a new or used set will cost you. But the machine shop, upon inspection, would be able to make the official call.

Good luck.

 

[LoneRanger]

I had mine done over the winter for $30.QUOTE]

wow. I think I am being overcharged.

 

[vtcruiser60]

Just to confirm....I did pay $30. I paid as high as $50 one year, but that included the removal of two broken bolts.

The process is deadly simple on the right machine. It looks like huge belt sander table. I had it done at Vermont Engine Service for anyone that is in the Burlington VT area.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

I'm switching to diesel. So, I have one in good shape from an 81 FJ40 for sale. $60 plus shipping if your interested. Location is Maryland.

 

[cruiser88]

wow are they giving you lube with that screwing 800 bucks dam

 

[Droopynut]

That price did sound kind of high.

This is what he said...

He had the manifolds milled at the areas where they connect to the head...but where the intake connects to the exhaust manifold is warped, and he said the machine shop couldn't mill it for some reason. He tried to file it flat so both peices would mate better.
Every time he put it back together and ran it, the gasket would blow out.

I'm not sure if he knows what he's doing...Is it really this complicated?

DAN

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

If this mechanic altered the angle the manifolds bolt together, then it could potentially cause leaks elsewhere. Remember, there's actually three surfaces to be concerned with. The plane where the intake & exhaust manifold mate up to one another are relative to the plane of the intake/exhaust manifolds mating to the head. If you separate the two manifolds and mill the mating surfaces, then you'll have to mill the plane of the manifolds as a unit along the mating suface of the head when they are bolted back together. Additionally they could potentially need machining on the side of the manifold where the bolts hold the manifold in place against the head. This would ensure there is equal clamping pressure along the flanges of the intake/exhaust manifold. It doesn't sound like your mechanic is taking any of this into consideration.

 

[Droopynut]

Since I can't trust my mechanic, I may have to takle this on my own. I'll just have to get an intake and exhaust manifold and some gaskets.

Now that I know what needs to be done, I thought I might do it myself. A shop manual for the FJ60 would help...Does anyone out there have one they might like to sell?

Can I get one from the Toyota Material Distribution Center, like the emissions manual RM36043 ???

DAN

 

[Landpimp]

I bought new OEM intake and exhust manifolds last year, $550 if I recall, money well spent. Call CDan

 

[brett76]

Since I can't trust my mechanic, I may have to takle this on my own. I'll just have to get an intake and exhaust manifold and some gaskets.

Now that I know what needs to be done, I thought I might do it myself. A shop manual for the FJ60 would help...Does anyone out there have one they might like to sell?

Can I get one from the Toyota Material Distribution Center, like the emissions manual RM36043 ???

DAN

yes you can. call cdan and get a manual if you need one. its really not that difficult to dothough. just time consuming your first time cuz you have to remove the carb and some other junk. i did it without the manual so that should tell you something . just post up if you have problems

 

[bigbrowndog]

The cast Iron and aliminium manifolds machine very easily and quickly with a belt sander.The sander sits quite flat on the manifold while machining and you just need to check it with a straight edge.It took less than 10 minutes to do this manifold that a 3mm hog in it.Probably 1/3 of the time was spent checking it for true.

 

[LoneRanger]

[QUOTE
The cast Iron and aliminium manifolds machine very easily and quickly with a belt sander.The sander sits quite flat on the manifold while machining and you just need to check it with a straight edge.It took less than 10 minutes to do this manifold that a 3mm hog in it.Probably 1/3 of the time was spent checking it for true.[/QUOTE]

Question: your manifold is one piece. The stock manifold on a 60 is two pieces which mesh together and must be made flush before installation. Furthermore, the two outer ends of the exhuast manifold are set with bearings so as to be moveable--they would have to be held in place somehow. Though I find your solution appealing and am contemplating trying it myself I wonder if it will work--especially with a handheld sander? Thoughts?

 

[bigbrowndog]

I believe it can be done. If you put the straight edge along the manifold face you will be able to see which pieces are high and which are low this should indicate how much you will need to remove.The scan shows the 2f ,I am not sure where the bearings you metioned are? My manifold shown in the pic is off a 2H diesel in my HJ75 ute. The shop wanted $100.00 to machine it they use a sander on a table sort of like a big belt sander.You will be surprised how quick the cast iron is removed using a low speed on the sander, I was.If you need any more details or questons pm me.regards gazza

 

[LoneRanger]

,I am not sure where the bearings you metioned are? [/QUOTE]


I may try it. I would rather spend the money on a belt sander I can keep than give it to the machine shop.

On my '82fj60 the outer pipes on the exhaust manifold are separate pieces which rotate on bearings inside the inner piece at each end. Not sure what the purpose is.

great thread. Hope I haven't hijacked. Seems relevant to intial question. Which style manifold does your 60 have droopynut?

 

[bigbrowndog]

This was my exhaust manifold from the 2H. I had to flog it with a piece of 3x2 hardwood to get it to come free.As a mate wanted a section to try and make a homemade turbo setup.Perhaps the 2F will be rusted and siezed together.If not if you are careful with the removal it may not separate and be easy to take the measurements but remember you will have some deflection here so all is not lost if it separates..Perhaps you could borrow or hire a sander. My mates 2f has a header system they are very popular down under.