Instead of plugging the holes in the roof after the rack removal has anyone covered them and used the same holes to mount rails like the yakima aluminum add on rails? A buddy of mine had some on a campershell and they seem to be pretty stout (although not as stout as the gutters). I was just thinking that they may look pretty clean up there.
Instead of plugging holes in roof (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter tucsonlx
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If you go this route (I would not) you should replace the nutserts with something more stout. They are the weakest point of the factory rack and are only held on by a thin area in contact with the roof sheet metal not a whole underside catch like a pickup cap should be. To do what you are asking you would have to buy all of the same Yakima/Thule rack components as you would for the gutter mounts that are already on the truck plus the artificial gutter mounts. The add on rails are simply an add-on gutter type mount. You already have the real deal on your truck and they are stout as a muthafaka as many have demonstrated with kaymar/arb/african outback racks. IMHO get the yakima/thule gutter mount bars and go the the existing gutters, fill the hole one way or another and be done with it. I've hauled weight equivilent to Junk's momma on four thule bars without a problem. cheers
- Thread starter
- #3
I have no doubt that the gutters are stronger, I was just looking for a clean look. They have the full length aluminum rails that almost look factory but you are definitely right in not sticking Mama Junk up there (who knows what would drip on the roof). I think I will take one of the recommended routes. Thanks for the reply.
I definitely agree with snowcruiser, there is no internal strength there. If you go to the trouble to pull the rack, and you still want a rack, then upgrade, dont downgrade and do something sloppy that wont work well. Personally i like dan's idea of the rubber washer and stainless hardware screws over the washer, that was dan's idea IIRC, this conceals and protects without the trouble of prepping, priming and painting. Anyway, the original roof rack setup was a baaaaaad idea, dont make it worse. Just my opinion in the hopes it helps. 
Anybody ever consider seeing if the small rails that are under the rack in the center of the roof are available and have two of them welded together to make the length fit out to the nutserts of the rack itself?
Dan - are those available and at what msrp? May be another alternative to just covering the nutserts with silicone and washers.
Dan - are those available and at what msrp? May be another alternative to just covering the nutserts with silicone and washers.
maybe not but if you use the wrong adhesive the heat resistant tiles might come off and you'd be in roasted shuttle mode..... 
I have white blobs of silicone gracefully filling the holes on my emerald roof....I've only been stopped a few times by people sking what those blobs are......Good thing I don't have a snorkle...
I have white blobs of silicone gracefully filling the holes on my emerald roof....I've only been stopped a few times by people sking what those blobs are......Good thing I don't have a snorkle...
check out one of my earlier threads on this.
I put in round plastic plugs with sealant underneath. then painted the plugs. Looks very nice.
The "rails" on the OEM rack are just sticky taped on. Although that glue is something else...
I put in round plastic plugs with sealant underneath. then painted the plugs. Looks very nice.
The "rails" on the OEM rack are just sticky taped on. Although that glue is something else...
e9999 said:
I really am afraid to take my rail guides off- it feels like the roof will buckle or I'll take up a layer of paint with the guides...
a heat gun is your freind with these guys,
the other thing you will want is a nylon scraper and a bottle of acrysolv or dx330,(any type of wax and adhesive remover)
Dave
the other thing you will want is a nylon scraper and a bottle of acrysolv or dx330,(any type of wax and adhesive remover)
Dave
