Talked with the machine shop that's rebuilding the F.5. He asked about installing the balancer. On my searching here all I could find was everyone uses a big hammer to install. He will not beat it on. Where can I look for a balancer install tool?
installing harmonic balancer (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rusty 72
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- harmonic balancer
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He will have to make something.
I have not found an off the shelf installer for this application.
I was going to make one 27 years ago, but have used a piece of 2" diameter tube as a driver and tapped it home.
Works fine, every time.
This is an old tractor engine, not a prancing hoarse or three pointed star; it can handle the balancer being driven on.
I have not found an off the shelf installer for this application.
I was going to make one 27 years ago, but have used a piece of 2" diameter tube as a driver and tapped it home.
Works fine, every time.
This is an old tractor engine, not a prancing hoarse or three pointed star; it can handle the balancer being driven on.
- Thread starter
- #4
The engine rebuilder will not install it by pounding it on. Says it will make the clearance on the thrust larger. It looks like I will have a machine shop make something up.
Does this Machine shop own a lathe? A simple bronze bushing or even a piece of heavy walled pipe bored larger than the balancer id is all the tool you need along with a lump hammer.
Line up the keyway,tap it on.Once enough thread is showing pull it on with the crank nut..........done.
I have done several and never had an issue.No reason the machine shop would either.
A length of wood 4x4 with a center hole bored in it works also.
Unless the shop is unsure of their capabilities this should be a non issue.
Line up the keyway,tap it on.Once enough thread is showing pull it on with the crank nut..........done.
I have done several and never had an issue.No reason the machine shop would either.
A length of wood 4x4 with a center hole bored in it works also.
Unless the shop is unsure of their capabilities this should be a non issue.
He will have to make something.
I have not found an off the shelf installer for this application.
I was going to make one 27 years ago, but have used a piece of 2" diameter tube as a driver and tapped it home.
Works fine, every time.
This is an old tractor engine, not a prancing hoarse or three pointed star; it can handle the balancer being driven on.
So what is the harmonic balancer bolt pitch if not one of these (12mm x 1.5, 14mm x 1.5, 16mm x 2.0)?
- Thread starter
- #7
I miked the outside of the bolt and it was about 20MM. Have not found anybody that has a tap that big. Cheapest new tap I can find is $20 so it looks like a big hammer will be used.
Crank is threaded externally, not internally, and uses a nut to retain the pulley and balancer assembly onto the crankshaft, on 09/69 and later F/2F/3F. Prior to that, it was simply an interference fit and presses on the crankshaft; there was not any additional mechanical retention method used.
(pic from classified thread out here last year)
Crank is threaded externally, not internally, and uses a nut to retain the pulley and balancer assembly onto the crankshaft, on 09/69 and later F/2F/3F. Prior to that, it was simply an interference fit and presses on the crankshaft; there was not any additional mechanical retention method used.
(pic from classified thread out here last year)
I appreciate the info. My original engine seized back in the 80's so I sold it as parts and went with a SBC. Because I never got into the engine I wasn't aware that a nut held on the harmonic balancer. I assumed it was like all the other cranks I'd dealt with and used a bolt.
be thankful you don't have a 63 FJ40 as Poser says the crankshaft pulley is a tapered fit without a clawnut, gives me fits every time I take it off and put it back on......"did I get it on far enough"?????Crank is threaded externally, not internally, and uses a nut to retain the pulley and balancer assembly onto the crankshaft, on 09/69 and later F/2F/3F. Prior to that, it was simply an interference fit and presses on the crankshaft; there was not any additional mechanical retention method used.
Hi, I usually use a block of wood and big hammer. A large brass hammer is one of my favorite tools. Mike
Sorry to resurrect a dead thread but it seems like the pulley install should be very easy but mine will not go on.
I've even tried installing it without the key thinking that it was shifting as I was talking it on but it still won't t go in flush to the timing case like it was before. It does have a new crank I got from the machine shop which has a slightly different snout but the book shows that mine falls right in the middle of the compatible year range.
Mine doesn't seat all the way and make the loud PING noise before it's on far enough. I've tried using the impact but it's tearing up the nuts threads and do not want to attempt to use the impact again. What could be the issue?
I've even tried installing it without the key thinking that it was shifting as I was talking it on but it still won't t go in flush to the timing case like it was before. It does have a new crank I got from the machine shop which has a slightly different snout but the book shows that mine falls right in the middle of the compatible year range.
Mine doesn't seat all the way and make the loud PING noise before it's on far enough. I've tried using the impact but it's tearing up the nuts threads and do not want to attempt to use the impact again. What could be the issue?
The balancer is not a slip-fit; it is a press/tight fit. If the balancer simply slips on and off, something is not right.
I use a piece of tubing and drive the balancer onto the crankshaft. Been doing it that way for many years now without any issues.
Make damn sure the key way is lined up and drive it home.
Thanks Steve, I'll clean it all up and take another stab at it. The case parts swapover is going smooth. I bolted the empty old one up and it looks flush when I tightend all in sequence. It must have been that bolt I missed, went on cockeyed. Thanks for the parts and advice today! Much appreciated.
Resurrecting this post to help others out getting ready to do this. My timing gear cover was leaking pretty bad. Plenty of posts on removal so I’ll stick to install. Found a spanner wrench on Amazon with 85mm span (see pic). Then I needed to hone out the two spanner tool holes by about 2mm to fit the bolts that thread into harmonic balancer. I then followed posers advice and hammered the harmonic balancer back on using my 32mm socket nut from my 80 series which seemed to fit really well between the harmonic balancer rivets. Once I eyeballed the depth to my accessory pulleys, I then put the bolts through the spanner, tightened them up on the harmonic balancer and rotated the spanner tool with the engine clockwise until it made contact with frame. Lastly, just torque balancer nut to FSM, which I think is 125 ft/pounds. Tool is $30 and works pretty damn well I think. I could find nothing local to install this balancer. As others have said, do not tighten timing gear bolts until harmonic balancer is torqued down and don’t forget blue thread sealant on two bottom timing gear cover bolts.
Nice factory PTO
Awe
Nice factory PTO
I completely forgot NOT to torque up the timing cover bolts before installing the harmonic balancer. How bad of a stuff up is that?
Also I'm really struggling to install the balancer. Everything online talks about an HB installer but that looks like it's for an internally threaded crank. And my 2H is externally threaded. My manual says it's ok to drive in. Worried I'll damage it if I hit it in.
Well it might leak. Not sure you could get a wrench on them to tighten them a little without pulling the balancer if it does leak, Since you don't have the balancer installed, properly torque the bolts.
There is a diesel section around here somewhere, would be worth your time to find it and read a bunch.
When asking for help year model market helps get correct answers.
It's usually not a good plan to pound threaded items in, but perhaps your unit is treaded inside so you could screw in a bolt to extract it.
There is a diesel section around here somewhere, would be worth your time to find it and read a bunch.
When asking for help year model market helps get correct answers.
It's usually not a good plan to pound threaded items in, but perhaps your unit is treaded inside so you could screw in a bolt to extract it.
