Installing arb roof rack tips\hints? (1 Viewer)

[NoHandleBars]

Mine looks to be ok, however where it mounts does look ****py should be a cover there. As for the silicone i used very lil and have had no problems lots of rain since install too. Not sure bout the bolts the rack comes with i think mine have already started to rust a little after only a few weeks may have to look into better ones that wont rust. I also got the lights mounted never had to take rack off and they fit perfect in the holes that were already there just had to get 4 big ass washers for the bottom so the nuts cant fall through.

Cool. I noticed that the front bolts (washer) actually cut INTO the fit kit and was rusting the day after. Not really a problem, but I looked at ALL the washers and NONE of them were perfectly flat...I think they gave me some super cheap washers. Not too worried though, I used TONS if black gasket-maker silcone. I'm very curious as to if we can modify the stock "cover ups" to go over the arb fit kit and cover up the eye-sore. Also, I think if I tried I could still turn the bolts some more...but I'm very worried about stripping the heads off so I think I'm good...the main thing is the washer actually CUT INTO the fit kit which I didn't even think was physically possible for a tiny piece of metal like that to slash into that zinc coated metal fit kit area.

I'm thinking another way to cover that hole up would be to buy some rubber, custom cut it, paint it black (or the color of your roof, mines black) and then silcone it down which would also make one hell of a seal.

 

[knoll0351]

Cool. I noticed that the front bolts (washer) actually cut INTO the fit kit and was rusting the day after. Not really a problem, but I looked at ALL the washers and NONE of them were perfectly flat...I think they gave me some super cheap washers. Not too worried though, I used TONS if black gasket-maker silcone. I'm very curious as to if we can modify the stock "cover ups" to go over the arb fit kit and cover up the eye-sore. Also, I think if I tried I could still turn the bolts some more...but I'm very worried about stripping the heads off so I think I'm good...the main thing is the washer actually CUT INTO the fit kit which I didn't even think was physically possible for a tiny piece of metal like that to slash into that zinc coated metal fit kit area.

I'm thinking another way to cover that hole up would be to buy some rubber, custom cut it, paint it black (or the color of your roof, mines black) and then silcone it down which would also make one hell of a seal.

How often does anyone get high enough to see the top of your Cruiser? I just left mine the way it was, that way water won't get trapped and cause long term rust to form. As for the bolts you absolutley do need to tighten them all the way down and if you are stripping the hex hey that they included with the kit either you aren't getting it all the way into the head of the bolt or you are putting it in crooked. When I tightened the bolts I used an adjustable screw driver (the ones with multiple heads) and just slipped the hex head into it to make a cheater bar.

 

[NoHandleBars]

How often does anyone get high enough to see the top of your Cruiser? I just left mine the way it was, that way water won't get trapped and cause long term rust to form. As for the bolts you absolutley do need to tighten them all the way down and if you are stripping the hex hey that they included with the kit either you aren't getting it all the way into the head of the bolt or you are putting it in crooked. When I tightened the bolts I used an adjustable screw driver (the ones with multiple heads) and just slipped the hex head into it to make a cheater bar.

Pretty sure they are plenty tight. As I said I silconed around the washers\bolts so they can't vibrate out, but they are in there TIGHT. The front washers had actually CUT into the fit kit so I silconed that up too. It's just very very hard to get a HEX key (much less a ratchet) in the rear\middle ones as the bolt HEAD is so close to the fit kit metal. I need one of those "T-Drivers" or w\e with the T handle that fits hex sockets on it so I can easily install the rack through the mesh...dunno where to find one though.

 

[knoll0351]

Pretty sure they are plenty tight. As I said I silconed around the washers\bolts so they can't vibrate out, but they are in there TIGHT. The front washers had actually CUT into the fit kit so I silconed that up too. It's just very very hard to get a HEX key (much less a ratchet) in the rear\middle ones as the bolt HEAD is so close to the fit kit metal. I need one of those "T-Drivers" or w\e with the T handle that fits hex sockets on it so I can easily install the rack through the mesh...dunno where to find one though.

Yes installing the mesh rack onto the mounting kit definately requires Carnie hands

 

[NoHandleBars]

Yes installing the mesh rack onto the mounting kit definately requires Carnie hands

That's why I'm trying to get this T-Driver thing. It shows it in the diagrams of installing it, and looks like it makes it hella easy.

 

[NoHandleBars]

Got it done today. There are a few "spots" that I need to touch up, and I figure arb has touch up paint somewhere so it shouldn't be a problem. The rack is wicked though in terms of look. Here a few pics (not the first one the camera went crazy on it I thought it was cool so w\e lol) Took them before cleaning the rig off... but oh well. On pic 2 or 3 I think it is, you can see on the front of the roof rack driver side it has a big scratch on it, this wasn't done by UPS...I think it actually happened at the arb facility. Touch up paint should cover it up though so no worries. No way in hell I'm unbolting this thing to put a new one on..

 

[adso]

Looks good. I got the short ARB rack. I don't know what I was smoking the day I ordered that instead of the long rack.
I've been thinking about the Gobi step ladder. Is it functional? I mean, can you really climb it without pulling it off of the door?

 

[NoHandleBars]

Looks good. I got the short ARB rack. I don't know what I was smoking the day I ordered that instead of the long rack.
I've been thinking about the Gobi step ladder. Is it functional? I mean, can you really climb it without pulling it off of the door?

Ya know, I was worried about that when I bolted it on. But you're fine as long as the doors closed, I yanked on it like crazy too and I weigh around what...250lbs? Even had my 6.1" "football" brother do it and he weighs around 285-290, didn't flex at all. So apparently it's rock solid. I also have a rear bumper guard, which first I grab the ladder, then put a foot on the bumper guard steel, then I"m up easily

 

[NoHandleBars]

Also, KP66, you said you never had to drill holes for the lights? I don't see what "holes" are already there...am I missing something?

 

[NDA431FJR]

I replaced the (ARB supplied) bolts with hex head bolts and put 4-bolts/nuts on each side to make the assembled rack more rock solid.

I also made backing plates ( from an aluminum sheet and painted it) for the FJ CRUISER cutout and make it really visible/readable.

White background is OK too, but I like the red to color cordinate the Hi-Lift and Firestik antenna tip.

 

[NoHandleBars]

That is pretty nifty. I don't have anything to cut metal with though. :-\.
When you close you're door can you hear the roof-rack metal vibrating when you do? I know you don't have the long rack, but I'd think it would still be present.