Installing ARB compressor - Best location for accessory & dash illumination tap?
- Thread starter brasskey
- Start date
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indycole
GOLD Star
I ran +12v and ground from the engine compartment for other accessories. Otherwise, tapping into the cigarette lighter is a popular option.
The +/- dash illumination is the green and white wires in my 2016... I tapped into those wires on one of the unused connectors on the left dash panel but you could tap into any of them easily. I used these Positap connectors but you'll need ones that work with 22-26 awg wire.
If I recall, the dash illumination negative wires are floating above ground a bit so you can't use the GND terminal. Can't say for certain as it's been a while.
The +/- dash illumination is the green and white wires in my 2016... I tapped into those wires on one of the unused connectors on the left dash panel but you could tap into any of them easily. I used these Positap connectors but you'll need ones that work with 22-26 awg wire.
If I recall, the dash illumination negative wires are floating above ground a bit so you can't use the GND terminal. Can't say for certain as it's been a while.
Given the power draw of the compressor your best solution would be to power the compressor directly off the battery via a relay with a tap to an acc power source to energize the relay (assuming you only want it to have power when the vehicle is on).
I would caution that you don't want to tap anything that powers sensitive semiconductors if you will be powering any kind of relay. When energized relays are opened the stored energy in the magnetic field is converted back in to voltage that will be fed back in to the tapped circuit which can cause damage. Tapping the cigaret lighter is probably your safest bet.
I would caution that you don't want to tap anything that powers sensitive semiconductors if you will be powering any kind of relay. When energized relays are opened the stored energy in the magnetic field is converted back in to voltage that will be fed back in to the tapped circuit which can cause damage. Tapping the cigaret lighter is probably your safest bet.
indycole
GOLD Star
Would that still be true if there's a diode in line?
I used the parking sensor switch to tap power for ignition and switch light power. I used the ARB harness to pull power directly from the battery and then replaced the ARB switch with one of the Slee compressor switches for a better look. I used quick splice connectors from the parking sensor wiring to the Slee switch to control the switch light settings for on, off and headlights. It works great.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I was going to post how I did mine this week, but got side tracked (have a leaking timing chain cover and I've been tearing down my 5.7)
But I taped mine on a open ACC fuse in the secondary fuse block. And for illumination I tapped off the mirror adjust switch, so my compressor, front and rear diff lock buttons dim with the rest of the lights.
The only thing you need to tap off the battery is the power to the compressor itself and that harness remains in the engine bay. The harness that handles the switches only needs 8amps so it is perfectly fine to use in the fuse block.
That way you don't have to needlessly open up you center dash stack, only need to pop the panel off below the steering to do everything. And your not steeling power off your cig lighter (I use mine to charge my hot water heater and some power bricks)
For the power harness, I tailored mine to follow the existing power leads off the battery, and built the harness under the fuse block to hide everything, then built a holder to position the 40 amps fuses right off the fuse block and make it look at clean as possible.
But I taped mine on a open ACC fuse in the secondary fuse block. And for illumination I tapped off the mirror adjust switch, so my compressor, front and rear diff lock buttons dim with the rest of the lights.
The only thing you need to tap off the battery is the power to the compressor itself and that harness remains in the engine bay. The harness that handles the switches only needs 8amps so it is perfectly fine to use in the fuse block.
That way you don't have to needlessly open up you center dash stack, only need to pop the panel off below the steering to do everything. And your not steeling power off your cig lighter (I use mine to charge my hot water heater and some power bricks)
For the power harness, I tailored mine to follow the existing power leads off the battery, and built the harness under the fuse block to hide everything, then built a holder to position the 40 amps fuses right off the fuse block and make it look at clean as possible.
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- Thread starter
- #7
I'm just needing accessory/ignition power and dash illumination for the switch. I'm not talking about powering the compressor. There's a dedicated harness for that that is very heavy duty with 40 amp fuses.
I should have said you have to worry about mechanical relays that use a coil induced magnetic field to operate the relay. A diode is indeed one solution: Flyback diode - Wikipedia
indycole
GOLD Star
I went with my second battery so I can use it when the truck is off but the amperage draw isn't that high on my compressor. Larger compressors should either be run off the starting battery when the engine is on.
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I took a different approach and wired mine to my starting battery.
See the only time I'm going to inflate is when I hit road, and I've never hit road and stopped. It's always been, hit road, inflate, and still got somewhere to go. So I'm not worried about battery life when the engine was just on and will be right back on in a couple minutes of compressor usage.
My auxiliary battery though has to deal with a fridge, and fan for my tent heater, and sometimes running extra lights for days at a time, and sometimes the sun isn't helping the solar panels out.
Now I have airlockers, and should anything happen to my aux battery because of the hard draw I always place on it, I still have lockers ready to be powered.
I know some will say that I could use the battery management system to bridge the two, but I've had those fail before (national Luna). So I like to wire off the worst case scenario setup. Also, you can easily wire an always on setup to any battery you have.
This is totally my simple opinion and I think both setups are great. Just wanted to give a different option for you, and everyone who will read this tread.
See the only time I'm going to inflate is when I hit road, and I've never hit road and stopped. It's always been, hit road, inflate, and still got somewhere to go. So I'm not worried about battery life when the engine was just on and will be right back on in a couple minutes of compressor usage.
My auxiliary battery though has to deal with a fridge, and fan for my tent heater, and sometimes running extra lights for days at a time, and sometimes the sun isn't helping the solar panels out.
Now I have airlockers, and should anything happen to my aux battery because of the hard draw I always place on it, I still have lockers ready to be powered.
I know some will say that I could use the battery management system to bridge the two, but I've had those fail before (national Luna). So I like to wire off the worst case scenario setup. Also, you can easily wire an always on setup to any battery you have.
This is totally my simple opinion and I think both setups are great. Just wanted to give a different option for you, and everyone who will read this tread.
I agree. Anything that is high draw that you will only need to run for short periods of time is better ran off the starting battery. The aux battery in my mind is for low draw long duration powering of accessories.
indycole
GOLD Star
Even though mine's on the aux circuit, I tend to use it when the truck is on and in that case the batteries are connected via the Blue Sea ACR. I just like the flexibility, but it's worth noting that the twin compressor may be pulling 50A at full draw which would in fact take a hit on the second battery.
- Thread starter
- #16
I think I'm just going to tap into the cigarette lighter for dash illumination and ignition/12V ACC as I'm already doing some work around there. Does anyone know which color wires are the dash illumination and 12V ACC? If you look at the attached picture, there's a pink wire and a black/white wire going directly into the back. There's also a green wire and a white wire coming in from the side.
I'm assuming pink is the 12V ACC and the green is the dash illumination ring around the port, but I don't want to guess.
I'm assuming pink is the 12V ACC and the green is the dash illumination ring around the port, but I don't want to guess.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I've found many instances where illumination wire color has been different throughout the truck. I highly recommend getting a simple $7 hot wire tester to make sure.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Hey there @Taco2Cruiser
I'm curious about this "tent heater" or "fan for tent heater" of which you speak. I've often tried to think of what I might set up for a tent heater...but have never really seen one in connection with a vehicle. Any info on that? Thanks!
Check the GSIC if you're unsure as they have wiring diagrams.
GSIC - Global Service Information Center
The pink wire is the 15A cigarette lighter circuit. If you want to tap 15A 12V accessory power you can use that. If you just want a backlight you need to tap one of the green wires (note: I tapped a green wire behind the left dash panel with all the accessory buttons since all those buttons are backlit - I'm not 100% sure what those green wires in your photo go to)
I'm trying to do this myself, but have a few noob questions:
For the power wires that go to the battery, do you just pull off some sheathing and wrap the bare wire around the terminal, or is there some cleaner option?
When you ran the harness through the firewall, did you use the existing hole where the hood release line goes through, cut open the free nipple thats available (on mine anyway), or just push the whole rubber grommet aside to fish it through?
How do you get the panel under the steering wheel off to access the bank of buttons on the left, so I can install the switch? I see two bolts to remove, is that all there is? The very lower panel with the TPMS was easy to remove.
