Anyone installed one of these? Finally getting around to taking the old rusty rear bumper off and wanted to make sure exactly which rivets to remove. Plus I have to remove a crap hitch that was welded to the frame. Can't seem to find any instructions on Dave's website (and Dave's on a much needed vacation...right on Dave!). If someone has recently installed this and have any pointers I would gladly like to hear them. Otherwise I will go grind off some rivets!!!
Installing 4plus rear bumper on FJ62
- Thread starter fabiodaddy
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Instead of a grinder I used a 18" cold chisel and a 10 lb sledge hammer. I found it might
require more power, but it seemed easier to me to 'top' the rivets and then they just fall out.
Welded hitch, that is a whole other thing, you want to be careful you don't grind your frame
away.
require more power, but it seemed easier to me to 'top' the rivets and then they just fall out.
Welded hitch, that is a whole other thing, you want to be careful you don't grind your frame
away.
Just finished mine. 21 rivets must go to remove rear cross member. 11 each side. Drilled them out and used air chisel, still 4 hrs. You only use 14 bolts total to the attach new. 7 per side. Probably overkill but I used grade 9 bolts nuts and washers from McMaster Carr.
I've done it twice; once with a grinder and once with a chisel.
Chiseling is MUCH easier and less destructive than grinding. With an air powered chisel I've cleanly removed a 62 crossmember in less than 2 hours. There are 4 welds on the corners which will require a cut off wheel or a grinder.
If you don't have an air chisel its worth buying one just for this job.
Chiseling is MUCH easier and less destructive than grinding. With an air powered chisel I've cleanly removed a 62 crossmember in less than 2 hours. There are 4 welds on the corners which will require a cut off wheel or a grinder.
If you don't have an air chisel its worth buying one just for this job.
Is that a swing arm stopper on the corner of the bumper? Did you add it or do they come that way now?
That's the way they come now. Great feature, the one I ordered for my Troopy a few years back didn't have the stopper.
That's nice! Your latch and pin setup looks different than mine, too.
I ground mine down after cutting off the pieces that come off at a 90° angle. Once I had them flush with the plate that they hold to the frame I hit them with a 3/8" drill bit. It took about 20-30 minutes per mount.
I used grade 5 bolts to mount my bumpers as that is what I had laying around. Mine are homemade but they use something like ten or twelve 3/8" bolts to mount them to the frame and rear cross member so I figure it would take a lot of stress or force to bend them. Plus grade 5 bolts will enter a plastic state and bend or stretch before they break where as grade 8 and 9 bolts with usually just fracture and break. So some times grade 5 is better as it allows for easy inspection of bolts since you can just check for bent or loose fasteners.
I used grade 5 bolts to mount my bumpers as that is what I had laying around. Mine are homemade but they use something like ten or twelve 3/8" bolts to mount them to the frame and rear cross member so I figure it would take a lot of stress or force to bend them. Plus grade 5 bolts will enter a plastic state and bend or stretch before they break where as grade 8 and 9 bolts with usually just fracture and break. So some times grade 5 is better as it allows for easy inspection of bolts since you can just check for bent or loose fasteners.
This was a beast of a job for me; used a grinder, drill, and BFH. I was worn down by the time I got the bumper installed, but I'm super happy with it now. Also, mine came with all the hardware required. I've got the older model without the swing arm stopper; what would it take to retrofit one of those on to the bumper?
Not trying to hijack your thread, but has anyone had trouble putting a hitch into the reciever on a 4plus rear bumper? I practically had to sledge hammer one in.
Hey Cock Smoker, why am I a dumbass? I just bought a 60 that has a 4plus bumper. Am I missing something? Why not point me in the right direction or just say search more. But no, you had to be Mr. Keyboard commando... How about you just not say anything?
Yes....I had to take a grinder to a trailer ball mount I bought...to get it to fit in the receiver on the 4 plus bumper. Minor grinding on a few of the sides and then hit it with a some paint spray bomb. Don't know why but I guess the receiver portion is just a little bit too tight on the tolerance. I have a d-ring mount that works fine (the kinds that mates with the 2 inch receiver)...but the trailer hitch ball mount had to be ground down.....no other way to make it work. If you hammer something in there it may be hell to get out.
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@GreyGooseFJ , @Elbert
Sometime back We purchased hitch material made by Hannibal of California. After a few bumpers we discovered that almost the only 2" square
built by Hannibal fits in hitch material built by Hannibal. We didn't realize until had cut 3 20' lengths into short pieces and drilled the hole. 98% went to the dumpster as the steel company wasn't interested in taking it back. Now we are vary careful. Vest, another US manufacturer makes hitch material that I've yet to find a hitch that won't fit.\
I checked back at Industrial Metals about two months ago , who handles Hannibal. Nothing changed. I brought three off the shelf hitches from Oreilly, Autozone and Napa.
Not a single hitch would slide into the Hannibal hitch tube. The salesman looked at me like I was lying, grabbed a couple raw tubes off their shelf.
They didn't fit either... And they still have no plans to change suppliers.
The problem seems to be in the radius of each corner. 2" 1/4 has the best success rate. Unfortunately most of the slip in hitches are cheaper and run .188 wall. 1/4" wall was more the standard many years ago. The newer hitches seem to use cheaper material
Sometime back We purchased hitch material made by Hannibal of California. After a few bumpers we discovered that almost the only 2" square
built by Hannibal fits in hitch material built by Hannibal. We didn't realize until had cut 3 20' lengths into short pieces and drilled the hole. 98% went to the dumpster as the steel company wasn't interested in taking it back. Now we are vary careful. Vest, another US manufacturer makes hitch material that I've yet to find a hitch that won't fit.\
I checked back at Industrial Metals about two months ago , who handles Hannibal. Nothing changed. I brought three off the shelf hitches from Oreilly, Autozone and Napa.
Not a single hitch would slide into the Hannibal hitch tube. The salesman looked at me like I was lying, grabbed a couple raw tubes off their shelf.
They didn't fit either... And they still have no plans to change suppliers.
The problem seems to be in the radius of each corner. 2" 1/4 has the best success rate. Unfortunately most of the slip in hitches are cheaper and run .188 wall. 1/4" wall was more the standard many years ago. The newer hitches seem to use cheaper material
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We recently acquired a pintle to 2" receiver hitch. The receiver end is solid, had square corners, wouldn't fit any of the receivers that we tried. I guess "customer grind to fit" is the new "standard universal fit"? Checked a bunch of name brand 2" adapters into a row of hitches, some were loose, some didn't fit, huge variance, if there is a standard, it's very loose?
Hi guys,
I'm currently about to install my new 4plus rear bumper on my FJ62. What technique did you use to remove the stock bumper? I removed all the bottom screws but the top screws (the riveted ones) are hardly accessible. My stock bumper is in pretty good shape so I was wondering if there is something I could do to access those screws instead of grinding or chiseling the rivets at the top and potentially scratching the bumper.
Thanks!
I'm currently about to install my new 4plus rear bumper on my FJ62. What technique did you use to remove the stock bumper? I removed all the bottom screws but the top screws (the riveted ones) are hardly accessible. My stock bumper is in pretty good shape so I was wondering if there is something I could do to access those screws instead of grinding or chiseling the rivets at the top and potentially scratching the bumper.
Thanks!
I remember those screws coming out fairly easily; you shouldn't have to grind them out. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Carriage bolts on the bumper rarely cooperate after 30 years on a rear bumper . Grind those chrome heads off and forget about selling that used bumper on Craig's list
