Install on Da 4.88s

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ok this has me a lil bit more worried than a spring over. I do all my own work and when im doing it, its prob the frist time im doing it. well for the most part anyways... but ive been reading a lot of info about the R/P install and it seems pretty hard. Has anyone done an install on R/P that has any tips or tools i should get for the install??.. i know, i wont be able to do it with out you ih8muder freaks...or the tech section

thanks agian,
-Al
 
spring over easy=big bolts
4.88 install not easy=wicked gnarly lil bolts
 
New R/P gears is not a task I'd handle myself. Too important to screw up.

You are a brave man- make sure you have the FSM and any instructions that go with the gearset.
 
How to set gear lash ???

Are you going with crush washers of solid ones ?

Doesn't the FSM refer to a range of 0.04 - 0.06 or is it 0.004 - 0.006 ???

Either way ... that's wicked precise. Would it be possible to do the "grunt" work and take the truck somepace to get the "lash" set ?

Cheers,
Cahil

P.S. I also recall comments in the past that the lash was more important for highway driving than dedicated trail use. Worst case, do it by feel and throw synthetic fluid at it and hope for the best ... *not*.

P.S.S. My rear pinion is set by feel. D'op ... I'm screwed.
 
fawk, it almost looks like ill be taking this to someone that has done it before. bummer to becuase i like knowing how to change out all my crap. this will be the first time i have to take it to a garage. owelll.

dude cahlic you coming up friday for the trail ride? check the other post on that blow t-case.
 
I just finished re-gearing both of my diff's with 4.88's, took the truck on it's maiden voyage this evening. I taught myself how to do gear swaps this summer, cause I was too cheap to pay big $$$ for someone else to do it. It's not really hard, you just gotta have the right tools and be very patient and thorough.

Tools you will need:
* bearing splitter
* press, or a jig that will pull the bearings off
* magnetic base and dial indicator
* torque wrenches - in particular one that measures bearing pre-load, down in single-digit in-lb range.
* die grinder or dremel tool
* some way to heat up the ring gear but carefully monitor the temp
* spanner tool for the side carrier adjusters (I made mine)
* 30 mm impact socket
* Some way to hold the diff safely upside down
* Some way to hold the flange from turning, VERY STONG
* a BIG wrench wrench for the 30mm socket, and probably a cheater pipe (I used the handle from my floor jack)
* Several brass punches of various sizes

When you go to 4.88's, you have to grind the corner off of 1 or 2 teeth of the ring gear in order to get the pin in and out of the carrier for the rear axle. You have to heat up the new ring gear to about 180-190deg to get it onto the carrier, I use an old electric skillet with water in it, and I monitor the temps with my DVM with a thermo probe. I use a Park Tools TW-1 to measure bearing pre-load, I bought it at a local bike shop.

The Yukonn install kits are nice, they actually use Koyo bearings, Toyota OEM shims, and a decent pinion seal. Very complete, although they want you to use RTV to seal the diff in the axle, I prefer using both RTV and a new gasket.

Let me know if you have any questions, I'll try to give you a hand.
 
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