Install leading arm/CC bushings - HELP

[jcarter]

Brief history:
See "FJ80 Front differential - replace or rebuild" posted in January. Bought hub & knuckle rebuild kits from man-e-fre. One bad birfield, bought new from cruisernet.com and other side flange for good measure. Shocks/springs were bad so bought 2-1/2" OME kit (shocks, springs, CC bushings, steering shock). While redoing front hub/knuckle replaced front springs & shocks. Took off leading arm, had caster corrective (CC) bushing pressed in. Axle buttoned up, so all that's left is Leading Arm (with CC bushings), then rear shocks and springs. Now stuck. . .

I can't get the leading arm in. Picture shows issue.
:
Hope that worked.

Anyhow, I have the "frame" bolt in. I have the rear axle bolt in. Can't get front axle bolt in.

Figured to unbolt frame bolt, attach 2 bolts to axle, then get frame bolt in. I'd have have to pivot arm from rear axle bolt (front bolt hole goes down to line up, frame bolt hole goes up), but can't because frame is in the way.

Jacked up with tires off because I figured I'd loosen front axle, get 2 bolts in front axle, then worry about frame bolt. But it's stiff and can't lower axle to line up holes (frames in the way).

Any suggestions? I gotta be missing something!

Would have to pivot arm on rear axle bolt so front axle , but Figured shock was not allowing axle to drop

 

[jcarter]

Sorry, "Would have to pivot arm on rear axle bolt so front axle , but Figured shock was not allowing axle to drop" was added by accident.

Another question: Since the front axle is too tight to maneuver should I UNINSTALL the front springs (undo the front shocks, stabilizer bar, and brake line supports) to loosen up the axle? Maybe it's because the rear springs and shocks are original (2-1/2" lower then front)?

I realize it's late (10PM Missouri Time). Redleg76, you out there?

 

[KliersLC]

Install your tires and let them rest on the ground. Jack up the frame and put it on stands. If you still don't have enough room, wedge a cheater bar in there somewhere, YMMV, and move the axle so the pinion goes toward the ground. THen you should have enough room. You didn't say if you had both arms off or not, but it will be easier if both arms are off of the frame at the same time.

 

[MARLIN375]

If I remember correctly you have got things out of order.
How did you get your "level" line on your control arm to lay out your CC bushing install ?
Your lift (springs and shocks) should be done first.

Then as KliersLC said sit her on the rubber, and bar or comealong the axle until you can get the bolts in.

 

[jcarter]

Did the tires on the ground, didn't work. Have both sides with 2 bolts in per the picture (hand tightened). Had CC bushings pressed in by machine shop per Landtank's template, checked them and they were right on.

Can't get to it until tomorrow. I've decided to loosen axle, get 2 axle bolts in then try to get the frame in.

So, I'm going to take both shock's bottom nut off, loosen brake line (3bolts), disconnect stabilizer bar from frame. I have the frame jacked way up, so I should be able to bring the axle way down, like I did when I installed the springs. If this works, maybe it should be added to the FAQ.

Also, the FSM says to replace the leading arm bolts. Anybody know why? They're big bolts and look fine.

 

[supercarrera]

I did mine with the tires on the ground. I did the two axel bolts first. Then used ratchet straps to move the axel forwards and backwards until it was in the right position. At the same time I used a floor jack to jack up the leading arm into position at the frame.

 

[Hayes]

With the tires on the ground and two people, we just more or less rolled the axle back.

 

[KliersLC]

Did the tires on the ground, didn't work. Have both sides with 2 bolts in per the picture (hand tightened). Had CC bushings pressed in by machine shop per Landtank's template, checked them and they were right on.

Can't get to it until tomorrow. I've decided to loosen axle, get 2 axle bolts in then try to get the frame in.

So, I'm going to take both shock's bottom nut off, loosen brake line (3bolts), disconnect stabilizer bar from frame. I have the frame jacked way up, so I should be able to bring the axle way down, like I did when I installed the springs. If this works, maybe it should be added to the FAQ.

Also, the FSM says to replace the leading arm bolts. Anybody know why? They're big bolts and look fine.

I guess I forgot to say so since you mentioned doing it in your post, but installing the front two bolts first is almost required. I guess I thought it was implied. If your shocks aren't extended all the way and your brakelines are not tight, you are wasting your time disconnecting a bunch of stuff. YOu might try lowereing the frame a little bit if stuff is too tight....

The key is rotating the axle.

 

[landtank]

I put the front bolts in the arms then using the jack lift the axle by the arm and that rotates the axle as you lift it. When you are close you still might need to bar things around with a big screw driver from the inside to get the bolt started.

 

[jcarter]

Too darn cold to get on it this morning. Thanks for the tips!

Following the FSM got me in trouble. It says to install to the body bolts first, then the axle.

Jacked up:
It's tough to jack up! I've got it on stands on the frame just in front of a cross member, but before the frame bends up for the front wheels. Have "safety" stands near front bumper under the frame, but they are maxxed out (24") and about 3" below the frame (idea is it will only fall 3" and just hurt me, not kill me).

Later, I'll support the axle with cheap stands on both sides. Then, I'll take off the control arm and start with the front bolts. After that, I hope the arm can pivot up to line up the rear axle bolts (I'm concerned the body bolt will STILL get in the way! Back to loosening EVERYTHING to get them on, we'll see). Once I get the 2 axle bolts in, I should be able to maneuver for the body bolts. I'll put the tires on and use them.

WHY DOES THE FSM SAY TO REPLACE THE LEADING ARM BOLTS?