Info needed on rewiring th XD9000i

[alpendubber]

I'm full blown into modifying my XD9000i to fit my older ARB 60 bumper. I cut the solenoid pack housing off, rolled the winch on its back and bolted it up that way. I relocated my solenoids behind the valance. My plan was to use the original warn connector mounted through the hole in the valance that was originally intended for the crank start option. It was going great until I pulled a little too hard on the connector wires and pulled the white one out! After pricing replacement parts from warn I decided to make my own.

So, new plan. I went out and bought a trailer connector set-up. I plan to wire the solenoids myself. Because the XD9000i runs a 5 terminal connector, my question is.. Can I run it using just the standard 3 wire set-up? I heard that the 4th and 5th wires (red and brown) are just a ground that is run through the controller. What if I just loop the ground terminal from each solenoid to the housing on motor?

Also, does anyone have any recommedations for a good quality rocker switch?

Thanks for the help.

 

[CruisinGA]

You are right on the grounding. Motor works the same as any other 3 pole winch motor, and XD9000i solenoids work fine wired in the standard 3-wire configuration.

I would use an in-cab winch control from 12voltguy.com . I have not used my external winch remote anywhere but in the cab.

Otherwise, most any SPDT momentary marine rocker is fine. You'll want another SPST switch as a safety. I use Carlingswitch Contura rockers from waytekwire.com (exact same switch ARB uses). I also like the rubber boot covered toggles that you see on boats a lot.

Let me know if you need a diagram. Sounds like you've got a handle on it.

 

[CruisinGA]

Also-
be sure to remove the plug on the back of the motor that will allow the motor to drain when mounted feet forward. If you don't do this, the inside of the motor will corrode and you WILL have problems. Ask me how I know.

There is a thread on here somewhere about it and there should be mention in the Warn Owners manual available on their website.

 

[alpendubber]

Thank you for the info!! If you could forward the schematic for a 3 pole conversion that would be great. I'm pretty sure I have it figured out but all info helps for sure.

I had it all wired up and while tightening the last terminal it broke. I bought a replacement solenoid(CHINA) from a local parts shop, brought it home and it's terminal also sheared off!! I just looked at it, barely even tightened it!

 

[CruisinGA]

I found my schematic, but I drew it up for a buddy's two-post milemarker motor. (Permanent magnet motor, not as good as our Warn motors ) so it doesn't really apply.

One side of all 4 solenoids should be grounded. Grounding all 4 solenoids should delete the side of the winch remote that only grounded the solenoids when they needed to be grounded. It was a safety feature, wouldn't be hard to keep, just use a DPDT switch and use the second pole to switch the ground.

One of the control wires to the remote is hot, the other two control two solenoids each.

The information above should be all you need. I'm about to take a test, so no time to draw another schematic, but if it comes down to it, I will.

PORC in Cumming GA has a pretty good price on the genuine Warn solenoid. The buddy I gave my spares to searched all over and found that they had the best price.

Performance Off Road Center

 

[CruisinGA]

More Warn solenoid info - Warn Winch Solenoid Question - Colorado4x4.org Forums

Hope this helps

 

[alpendubber]

Thanks again for the info.

I think I have it all figured out.

I'm just waiting on a new solenoid because I broke a terminal on one. I post a pic when I'm done.

 

[CruisinGA]

Good deal!

I'd be interested to see how the winch looks with the solenoid pack off.

 

[alpendubber]

Hey Cruisin,

Finally got it all wired up. I tested it this morning and it seems to work fine. Thanks for all the help.

 

[alpendubber]

Here's one more with the extesion cord mod. Also, the trailer plug setup fits perfect with no mods in the crank start hole in the valance.