Yes. Front drive shaft has bad CV angles causing overheating and boot failures at the diff. Any lift seems to make it worse. I replaced my joints at 27k miles. My boot had completely torn open and the joint was crunchy and ready to eject itself.
The overwhelming majority of CV boot failures are at the transfer case end of the front drive shaft. It is not an issue of heat. The joint itself has no issue with the angle. The failure mood is the boot getting pinched between the shaft and the metal flange that holds the boot in place This eventually thins out the boot until it splits. Once the boot fails the grease is no longer contained and it is absence of grease that then causes the CV joint to fail. Lifting the vehicle and/or installing longer shocks greatly accelerates the degradation of the boot.
The overwhelming majority of CV boot failures are at the transfer case end of the front drive shaft. It is not an issue of heat. The joint itself has no issue with the angle. The failure mood is the boot getting pinched between the shaft and the metal flange that holds the boot in place This eventually thins out the boot until it splits. Once the boot fails the grease is no longer contained and it is absence of grease that then causes the CV joint to fail. Lifting the vehicle and/or installing longer shocks greatly accelerates the degradation of the boot.
It's really the biggest Achilles of the vehicle. I plan to replace mine every 10-15K to avoid possible failure. I am keeping the lift low at 1.2" in the front only to minimize the possibility as well. Hopefully they come out with a fix in the next few years.
I'm six months into Grenadier ownership and I drive it more often than either of my land cruisers. It isn't as comfortable as my 200, nor as raw as my 80, but is a goldilocks in between. Other than some dash warning light annoyances, it has been trouble free. Even stock I've had it on some very hard trails and it eats them up.
I agree. It's a modern analog experience. Just enough comforts to be better than an 80, but not enough to match a 200/250/300. We've only had ours for a few weeks, but so far, I am blown away with how much we like it, and I am far more obsessed than I have ever been with any of my Cruisers. There's definitely a tax on the aftermarket goodies, seems like everything starts at $1000, but the options are extensive for a vehicle that has only been around for three years.
It's really the biggest Achilles of the vehicle. I plan to replace mine every 10-15K to avoid possible failure. I am keeping the lift low at 1.2" in the front only to minimize the possibility as well. Hopefully they come out with a fix in the next few years.
Replacing every 10-15k seems pretty frequent and doesn't suggest a reliable design.
What about having a driveshaft built that uses common commodity u-joints (1410s) and eliminate that problem?
Replacing every 10-15k seems pretty frequent and doesn't suggest a reliable design.
What about having a driveshaft built that uses common commodity u-joints (1410s) and eliminate that problem?
It's not ideal, but it's only $180 and takes maybe 10-15 minutes to swap when doing an oil change. There's a U-joint drive shaft coming to market, and word is there's a second one in development, but you're more likely to have driveline vibes with that design. I'll wait and see what kind of real-world reports/feedback they get once they are out there in use.
From what I understand, the real answer is to have the axle cut and turned to lessen the pinion angle, and maybe Ineos will do just that in future models.
