In the Middle of CV Boot Replacement: Can't Remove Inner Race

[4Peanut]

Race has a slight taper to the splines on one side (see attached). Does anyone remember if these face inboard or outboard? Match marks came off with the brake cleaner.

 

[pfran42]

Race has a slight taper to the splines on one side (see attached). Does anyone remember if these face inboard or outboard? Match marks came off with the brake cleaner.

View attachment 608707

I told you...

I watched all the fittings like a hawk and luckily got it back together the same way it came apart. PM or email Christo at Slee. I bet he has done enough of these to know right off hand.

 

[DallasCrzr]

I havent done this but if there are tapered splines on the race wouldnt there have to be corresponding tapered splines on the axle shaft?

 

[4Peanut]

Emailed Slee. In the meantime, anyone? Bueller?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Logic would say it tapers as the bell and cage narrow.

 

[AimCOtaco]

The only way tapered would make sense is if the end of the shaft is smaller than the middle. That would eliminate slop as you drive the race onto the shaft. A reverse taper would introduce slop.

 

[4Peanut]

"Taper" might be the wrong word. "Step" might be better. See picture and notice the splines on the inside of the race. My educated guess is that the step end slides over the inboard shaft first and is what prevents the race from sliding (or, more correctly, from being hammered) too far outboard (the snap ring on the inboard side of the race keeps it from moving inboard). But, this is not the type of job you want to be making educated guesses. The consequences are too great. Could really use someone's help here.

 

[agaisin]

"Taper" might be the wrong word. "Step" might be better. See picture and notice the splines on the inside of the race. My educated guess is that the step end slides over the inboard shaft first and is what prevents the race from sliding (or, more correctly, from being hammered) too far outboard (the snap ring on the inboard side of the race keeps it from moving inboard). But, this is not the type of job you want to be making educated guesses. The consequences are too great. Could really use someone's help here.

If you're still on side 1, maybe get started on side 2 and take a look?

 

[4Peanut]

If you're still on side 1, maybe get started on side 2 and take a look?

I'm working on the PS (boot was torn). The DS has very minor seepage on the outboard (small) side of the inboard boot. After what I've gone through these last few days, I plan to pfran-clamp-it and watch it carefully. Great suggestion though.

 

[agaisin]

OK - not certain of this helps:
1)ToyotaOffRoad.com - Toy Axle Rebuild
see under Axle Shaft Assembly section with pictures
"When inserting the inner race into the cage make sure to have the protruding side of the inner race facing the wider side of the cage. These two sides should also be facing out the end of the outer shaft."

and

2) How to Replace the CV Boot on a Toyota Camry | eHow.com
"Insert the inner race and cage onto the axle with the "bulge" side of the cage facing out."

3) https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/13063-birfield-assembly.html
Yes it's in the 80 series but it seems to be discussing the groove and the proper position of the inner race. I didn't read the entire thread in detail but there may be something relevant there. The first pic is specifically talking about the inner race and the groove...

 

[4Peanut]

agaisin, I totally appreciate your help. I did come across the first link during a Google search as well as the third searching 'MUD. I also just found this post by Zane from two years ago: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/340812-just-another-day-garage.html

Looking at one of the pictures from his post (below), and assuming in this picture Zane had the race and cage in their assembled orientation, it appears that the stepped or chamfered side of the inner splines of the race are positioned towards the smaller side of the cage. This would mean the smaller side of the cage and the chamfered side of the inner splines of the race both face outboard (away from the differential). My wife asked, "Can't you just put it all back together one way and see if it works?"

 

[agaisin]

agaisin, I totally appreciate your help. I did come across the first link during a Google search as well as the third searching 'MUD. I also just found this post by Zane from two years ago: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/340812-just-another-day-garage.html

Looking at one of the pictures from his post (below), and assuming in this picture Zane had the race and cage in their assembled orientation, it appears that the stepped or chamfered side of the inner splines of the race are positioned towards the smaller side of the cage. This would mean the smaller side of the cage and the chamfered side of the inner splines of the race both face outboard (away from the differential). My wife asked, "Can't you just put it all back together one way and see if it works?"

If you're comfortable putting it back together and taking it apart your wife's suggestion might not be a bad idea I hate guessing though and this would bug me too...

Sorta (un)related iirc the cage and balls only work one way. ie if the cage is on in the wrong direction the joint won't allow full range of motion. So if the race were on the wrong way would that mean the cage would only work backwards. Ignore if that didn't make sense... I only did the job once (both sides) so the deatils aren't that fresh in my head.

Feel bad for ya that you're having all this trouble. Hopefully it'll make you more confident next time rather than scare you away from diy'ng

 

[4Peanut]

If you're comfortable putting it back together and taking it apart your wife's suggestion might not be a bad idea.

If I had taken that route as soon as I realized it was one way or another (six hours ago) I'd probably be rolling by now.

 

[Taomca02]

DISASSEMBLY

1. CHECK DRIVE SHAFT

• 1. Check to see that there is no remarkable play in the outboard joint.
  2. Check to see that the inboard joint slides smoothly in the thrust direction.
  3. Check to see that there is no remarkable play in the radial direction of the inboard joint.
  4. Check the boots for damage.

1. UNSTAKE INBOARD JOINT BOOT CLAMPS Using a screwdriver, unstake the 2 inboard joint boot clamps.

1. REMOVE INBOARD JOINT TULIP

• 1. Place matchmarks on the inboard joint tulip and outboard joint shaft. NOTICE: Do not punch the marks.
  2. Using a screwdriver, remove the snap ring from the outboard joint shaft.
  3. Remove the inboard joint tulip from the outboard joint shaft.

1. DISASSEMBLE INBOARD JOINT

• 1. Place matchmarks on the outboard joint shaft, inner race and cage. NOTICE: Do not punch the marks.
  2. Remove the 6 balls.
  3. Slide the cage to the outboard joint side.
  4. Using a snap ring expander, remove the snap ring.
  5. Using a brass bar and hammer, remove the inner race. NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the inner race.
  6. Remove the cage.

1. REMOVE INBOARD JOINT BOOT AND 2 CLAMPS
2. REMOVE OUTBOARD JOINT BOOT CLAMPS

• 1. Using a screwdriver, unstake the 2 outboard joint boot clamps. HINT: If the outboard joint boot clamps that have been replaced are installed to the drive shaft, use a side cutter or pliers to remove them.
  2. Remove the 2 outboard joint boot clamps and outboard joint boot. NOTICE: Do not disassemble the outboard joint.

1. REMOVE DUST COVER Using a screwdriver and hammer, remove the dust cover from the inboard joint tulip.
2. REMOVE DUST SEAL Using a screwdriver and hammer, remove the dust seal from the outboard joint shaft.

REASSEMBLY

1. INSTALL DUST SEAL Using SST and a press, install a new dust seal to the outboard joint shaft. SST 09950-00020 NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the dust seal.

1. INSTALL DUST COVER Using SST a steel plate and press, install a new dust cover. SST 09316-20011 NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the dust cover.
2. INSTALL OUTBOARD JOINT BOOT AND CLAMPS

1. Place 2 new boot clamps to boot. HINT: Before installing the boot, wrap vinyl tape around the spline of the shaft to prevent damaging the boot.
2. Temporarily install a new boot to the outboard joint shaft.
3. Position the inside clamp onto the boot.

1. Using SST, pinch the inside clamp. SST 09521-24010 NOTICE: Do not overtighten SST
2. Pack the outboard joint and boot with grease in the boot kit. Grease capacity: 368 - 378 g (13.0 - 13.3 oz.)
3. Position the outside clamp onto the boot.

1. Using SST, pinch the outside clamp. SST 09521-24010 NOTICE: Do not overtighten SST.

1. Using SST, adjust the clearance of the clamps. SST 09240-00020 Clearance: 0.8 mm (0.031 inch)

• 1. TEMPORARILY INSTALL INBOARD JOINT BOOT AND CLAMPS Temporarily install 2 new boot clamps and boot to the outboard joint shaft.
  2. ASSEMBLE INBOARD JOINT

1. Install the cage to the outboard joint shaft. NOTICE: Insert the cage with its smaller inner diameter side facing to the outboard joint.
2. Align matchmarks placed before removal.
3. Install the inner race.
4. Using a snap ring expander, install a new snap ring.
5. Align matchmarks placed before removal, and install the cage to the inner race.
6. Install the 6 balls. HINT: Apply grease onto the balls to keep them from falling.
7. Pack the inboard joint tulip and boot with grease in the boot kit. Grease capacity: 293 - 303 g (110.3 - 10.7 oz.)
8. Align matchmarks placed before removal, and install the inboard joint tulip to the outboard joint shaft.
9. Install a new snap ring.
10. Temporarily install the boot to the inboard joint tulip.
11. Make sure that the boot is on the shaft groove.

1. Make sure that the 2 boots are not stretched or contracted when the drive shaft is at standard length. Drive shaft standard length: 573.9 ±5.0 mm (22.594 ±0.197 inch)
2. Using a screwdriver, bend the clamps and lock them.

• 1. CHECK DRIVE SHAFT

 

[Taomca02]

Not sure if this will help, but good luck with the repair.

 

[4Peanut]

Not sure if this will help, but good luck with the repair.

Taomca, thanks. I do have a copy of the FSM. Your images are not coming through with your post. Perhaps you could edit your post for the next person.

 

[4Peanut]

Chamfered side of the inner splines of the race face outboard

...This would mean the smaller side of the cage and the chamfered side of the inner splines of the race both face outboard (away from the differential).

Reassembled the race to the drive shaft with the "stepped," "tapered," or "chamfered" inner splines of the race facing outboard (away from the differential) and then reassembled the cage and balls. Greased it up and clamped the boot.

Now, like others, I'm struggling to get the half shaft assembly to seat back into the differential.

 

[spring]

Was doing reboots yesterday and can confirm that "stepped"/"tapered"/"chamfered" inner splines of the inboard race face outboard (away from the differential). It does seem logical they are there to make it easy to start putting the race back on the axle.