I'm new to cruiser, lookin for some tips

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Alright, I recently bought a FJ60 to restore. After a few days with the carb and vac hoses i got it running ok. I went to take it for a drive and it started to buck every once in a while. Letting the engine go back to low rpms would seem to fix the problem and would allow me to keep going. I know the fuel tank isnt breathing correctly, could this be the cause of it? Any other ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Carb problem most likely. Common. If you are going to restore it might want to look into sending it to Jim C (FJ40Jim) for a rebuild unless you are 2F carburetor savvy. :hillbilly:
 
Can i move to weber?

Is there any instructions or tips for that. I was thinking about switching to weber anyways. Also is it bad to drive it with a carb problem like that? It doesnt seem to be running to rich so i should be ok right?

*edit*also please forgive my stupid questions, im not really a carb guy and am totally new to some of this stuff
 
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The overwhelming opinion on this board is that the stock Aisin is the right carb & JimC is the right rebuilder. Seems like most of the Weber owners have problems, whereas those who have addressed their Aisin problems the "correct" way are happy they did.
 
A vacuum leak can cause your bucking problem. Search on "buck" in the 60-series forum. What makes you think the fuel tank isn't breathing correctly? Your gas tank will pressurize - it's supposed to if everything's working right. Some air escaping when you take the cap off is normal.

Welcome to Mud!
Butt
 
Thank you for all the help you guys, im not getting any backfiring at all anymore, and i will look into aisin.
 
I had the same buck many years ago . It was the carb.I thought (pre MUD, pre Jim C) the answer was a Weber. Did a desmog, added the 38. Buck stopped, ran o.k. but now couldn't pass emmisions legally ;).

Now am doing a frameoff of the same beloved 60 years later and am going back fully oem stock. First thing was to get rid of the rich running Weber.
Even bought a new Aisin crown jewel to go on top.:hillbilly:
 
Replace all the standard ignition stuff too, dizzy cap and rotor, plugs, and wires. That will make a big difference on how it runs.
 
If your gas tanking isn't venting correctly, too much pressure will build up. Venting normally occurs through the charcoal canister. This is worse with a full tank.
 
Alright, quick update. I can't get it to idle below 1500 rpms, im assuming its because the idle circuit is bad in the carb. Does anyone know where i can get a good deal on a fj60 AISIN carb? Or would it possibly be cheaper to ship it to jim for a rebuild?
 
Fast idle could be timing, choke set incorrectly, a/c idle up switch set incorrectly, and a number of other things. Are you sure you're adjusting the correct screw? It's the one closest to the driver's side, pointed up at an angle toward the driver side. NOT the one that's straight up and down.
 
Fast idle could be timing, choke set incorrectly, a/c idle up switch set incorrectly, and a number of other things. Are you sure you're adjusting the correct screw? It's the one closest to the driver's side, pointed up at an angle toward the driver side. NOT the one that's straight up and down.
Yea, i am adjusting the right screw. But the fast idle isnt really the problem. The problem is that when it gets into the lower RPMs it wont idle at all, it just dies. So i have to set the idle screw so that it sits around 1500 rpm and even then it likes to bounce between 1300 and 2000 rpm and if you hit the gas it takes about 3 or 4 secs before it returns to where it is set. Im not exactly sure where to go, im not real good at working with carbs, just know the basics really.
 

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