I’m a timing belt whiner

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Mine was replaced at 120k miles back in 2012. Now I am at almost 170K miles, so no where near 90K miles on this belt but should I be worried that my timing belt is now almost 10 years old and replace it?
You can take a quick look just by removing 3 10mm bolts on the passenger side cam gear covers to see your timing belt. I think that’s the best way to know it warrants replacement.
 
Oh brother. Fortunately there is some history online of service done at Lexus dealers and I estimate in January 2016 this car had 105,000 miles, so it makes sense.

Seems very plausible the PO could not muster the cost of a timing belt change at the dealer and took this car to an indy. And the indy was nice enough to forget to place a timing belt sticker. 🤬 Well all the pulleys felt rough so at least those got timely replacements.

Anyone need a 5yo, 40k mile timing belt and water pump?!
Dont beat yourself up over it, there was no way to know. Plus, you were able to do some things that normal people never have done on their rigs unless "the tech recommended it".
 
Not sure if it’s the picture hue or what, but your inside water pump cavity looks pretty oddly colored- am I seeing a rusty red color-

A note about coolant flushing- it’s really important if you are going to the trouble to drain it, to get it all out, flush it with water(distilled if possible) and refill it with new coolant. Mixing old and new dilutes and reduces life span of new coolant: = that affects lubricity and corrosion protection- and increases pH- when chemistry goes galvanic you can get current draw (parasitic)

Will that affect things during your ownership- prob not; but for the next guy if your truck makes it that long- it might count to them
 
Not sure if it’s the picture hue or what, but your inside water pump cavity looks pretty oddly colored- am I seeing a rusty red color-
So that’s not normal? I did not take a close look but the writing goes over it so in the last 5 years it doesn’t seem to have grown.

I guess it’s one of those things you just look over because there’s so many other things to do.

Too many eyes on this thing. Too much data. Ignorance sure is bliss.
 
So that’s not normal? I did not take a close look but the writing goes over it so in the last 5 years it doesn’t seem to have grown.

I guess it’s one of those things you just look over because there’s so many other things to do.

Too many eyes on this thing. Too much data. Ignorance sure is bliss.
Ive never seen it stained that color- and then the rust and pitting at top of cavity isn’t normal. What color was the coolant that came out? Orange?

It should look like this
1635946304231.webp
 
Ive never seen it stained that color- and then the rust and pitting at top of cavity isn’t normal. What color was the coolant that came out? Orange?
Old coolant was red so nothing suspicious there.

Is there any value in investigating the old water pump and radiator?

What now to address that? The cooling system is all new with a new radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses, T’s, and 4 gallons of Zerex Asian Red.
 
I wouldn’t bother to investigate- just run it. It’s prob from PO never changing the coolant until they did the original TB. What’s done is done- nothing to undo.

Just change the coolant every 24-36mo and that’s as much as you can proactively do
 
Just change the coolant every 24-36mo and that’s as much as you can proactively do
Thanks. I’ll carry on. May do a good flush next time around.


Special tools preparation

Another reason I’m whining is because it takes time to make sure you have all the tools available.

Purchased a crank holder from Amazon $40. I loosened the crank bolt with the bump start but still needed the holder to torque it back on.

Purchased a flex ratchet, 10mm hex socket, 22mm 6 point socket, FIPG.

Borrowed a second breaker bar for the cam and crank bolts.

Rented the crank pulley remover and beefy torque wrench from Autozone.

Researched removing the cam wheel without the special cam holder tool. Just do it while the timing belt is still on, using a couple breaker bars like so:
5F34A068-C31B-4D40-A5FB-B36C98C9588B.jpeg


Discovered a Tazo drink bottle fits perfectly in the OEM and CSF radiator for burping:
B8F3C769-C754-4CE6-9D70-4E78BEEAD1E4.jpeg


And built a top creeper out of my kids old bunk bed ladder:
B57C65B4-3E95-4164-B77B-288F167402C5.jpeg


Even before the first bolt was loosened I had plenty of hours and mental energy spent on preparing for all these tools.
 
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Thanks. I’ll carry on. May do a good flush next time around.


Special tools preparation

Another reason I’m whining is because it takes time to make sure you have all the tools available.

Purchased a crank holder from Amazon $40. I loosened the crank bolt with the bump start but still needed the holder to torque it back on.

Purchased a flex ratchet, 10mm hex socket, 22mm 6 point socket, FIPG.

Borrowed a second breaker bar for the cam and crank bolts.

Rented the crank pulley remover and beefy torque wrench from Autozone.

Researched removing the cam wheel without the special cam holder tool. Just do it while the timing belt is still on, using a couple breaker bars like so:
View attachment 2829442

Discovered a Tazo drink bottle fits perfectly in the OEM and CSF radiator for burping:
View attachment 2829444

And built a top creeper out of my kids old bunk bed ladder:
View attachment 2829441

Even before the first bolt was loosened I had plenty of hours and mental energy spent on preparing for all these tools.
Luckily you don't have big honking bull bar, otherwise you'd have to make the creeper even longer ;)
 

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