Ignition locked, steering wheel locked, can’t turn key (1 Viewer)

[PeterTheBeater]

Got a 1997 FJZ80.

Currently can’t turn the key to accessory or in general. The steering wheel lock is on, the car is in park. I’ve tried pulling, yanking, pushing on the steering wheel and the tumbler. Released the parking lock and tried all sort of things with it. I’ve rolled the vehicle and rocked the vehicle backwards and forwards. The key is a bit worn and I’ve had a couple of times like this before during the ownership, but I was always able to turn the key after moving the steering wheel.

I’ve pulled on the steering wheel pretty hard but can’t turn the tumbler still, it is about 110* F outside so my theory is that everything is worn enough, that when expanded, jammed.

Sprayed some specialized lubricant in the tumbler as well but that didn’t help.

I’ve ordered a new vin-cut key from the dealer which I will pick up in a few days, as well as a new Toyota tumbler and key off eBay to replace the whole thing.

Any advice on other things to try?

 

[ALX4X4]

Handbag ?

 

[PeterTheBeater]

Handbag ?

As in hit with my handbag?

 

[DaviMH47]

Handbag ?

Are you having a stroke?

 

[Mark W]

Got a 1997 FJZ80.

Currently can’t turn the key to accessory or in general.

I’ve pulled on the steering wheel pretty hard but can’t turn the tumbler still, it is about 110* F outside so my theory is that everything is worn enough, that when expanded, jammed.

It is doubtful that anything has 'expanded"and jammed. If the key is worn enough you likely have one or more pins/tumblers that are not being moved far enough to disengage.

Pulling the key back a tiny tiny bit or pushing it in more firmly *might* help. As might running it in and out as you try to turn it. Also a few light taps on the back of the key (tapping it into the lock) while applying light turning force *might* jar the tumblers enough to kick them into place. Just like using a bump key to break into a residential house lock. I can not think of anything about this ignition lock that would make it overly sensitive to this, but since I have not had to every actually resort to this, I'd say don't get carried away whacking at it.

I assume that you have turned the wheel back and froth to make sure that the steering wheel lock is not pressing hard enough to prevent the key from turning.

Mark...

 

[LandCruiser65]

I'd recommend what I did. Go to the dealer with your title or registration and have a new key cut. NOT a copy of your existing key. Try that before you force it and break something.

 

[PeterTheBeater]

It is doubtful that anything has 'expanded"and jammed. If the key is worn enough you likely have one or more pins/tumblers that are not being moved far enough to disengage.

Pulling the key back a tiny tiny bit or pushing it in more firmly *might* help. As might running it in and out as you try to turn it. Also a few light taps on the back of the key (tapping it into the lock) while applying light turning force *might* jar the tumblers enough to kick them into place. Just like using a bump key to break into a residential house lock. I can not think of anything about this ignition lock that would make it overly sensitive to this, but since I have not had to every actually resort to this, I'd say don't get carried away whacking at it.

I assume that you have turned the wheel back and froth to make sure that the steering wheel lock is not pressing hard enough to prevent the key from turning.

Mark...

Yeah tried all that as well. I have tried turning the key while turning the wheel against the steering wheel lock, left and right, no luck.

I'd recommend what I did. Go to the dealer with your title or registration and have a new key cut. NOT a copy of your existing key. Try that before you force it and break something.

Getting it tomorrow hopefully.

 

[PeterTheBeater]

Still waiting on a new key, but I was able to start it and learned the trick. Right now, putting the key and trying to turn at the same time works the best, in case this helps someone in the future. Nothing else besides this worked for me.

 

[Mark W]

Still waiting on a new key, but I was able to start it and learned the trick. Right now, putting the key and trying to turn at the same time works the best, in case this helps someone in the future. Nothing else besides this worked for me.

"putting the key and trying to turn at the same time" = "running it in and out as you try to turn it"

This is *usually* the best bet when you have a badly worn key that doesn't want to align the tumblers. Sounds like a new properly cut key will solve your problems. I've got an '80 with a key that, while not as bad as yours is getting pretty iffy. VIN cut at the dealer is the route I am taking, the next time I get into Anchorage.

Mark...

 

[PeterTheBeater]

"putting the key and trying to turn at the same time" = "running it in and out as you try to turn it"

This is *usually* the best bet when you have a badly worn key that doesn't want to align the tumblers. Sounds like a new properly cut key will solve your problems. I've got an '80 with a key that, while not as bad as yours is getting pretty iffy. VIN cut at the dealer is the route I am taking, the next time I get into Anchorage.

Mark...

Well I’ve tried that yesterday but it didnt work lol. Today, was walking past it, and said let’s try again real fast. For some reason today it changed its mind and it worked when I tried. I’ve sprayed more lubricant into it and worked the key on and off a bunch of times. It’s still a little iffy but at least it turns.

I’ve ordered a new cylinder off eBay. Once I get the key, I will take the cylinder and the key to the locksmith before I use it and get it reset.

 

[Mark W]

Well I’ve tried that yesterday but it didnt work lol. Today, was walking past it, and said let’s try again real fast. For some reason today it changed its mind and it worked when I tried. I’ve sprayed more lubricant into it and worked the key on and off a bunch of times. It’s still a little iffy but at least it turns.

I’ve ordered a new cylinder off eBay. Once I get the key, I will take the cylinder and the key to the locksmith before I use it and get it reset.

Since the key has two sides, but only one is actually engaging the tumblers when you insert it, flipping a worn key around can make a difference too. Both sides are gonna be worn, but even a tiny difference can be all it takes.

Mark...

 

[PeterTheBeater]

Ended up just replacement the lock cylinder, didn’t rekey it. To release the ignition cylinder, remove the light ring, turn key to ignition, and depress tiny detent under the switch, then pull out.

 

[Mark W]

Two of my '80s had the ignition lock cylinder (only the ignition) replaced before I acquired them and another will be getting a new VIN cut key the next time I am in town Hopefully that will be all that one needs.

A couple of of my customers also have ignition keys that do not match the doors, so I assume those ignition lock cylinders have also been replaced.

Mark...

 

[BILT4ME]

My LC is my DD, so I keep my master key in a drawer in the house.
I have 6 new keys made at a time. On average, I wear out a key a year. When it starts to get sticky in one of the door locks I change it out.
It's always because the square shoulders on the key have worn off.

 

[Mark W]

My LC is my DD, so I keep my master key in a drawer in the house.
I have 6 new keys made at a time. On average, I wear out a key a year. When it starts to get sticky in one of the door locks I change it out.
It's always because the square shoulders on the key have worn off.

Man, you are hard on keys!

I just had a batch of 6 each cut for all of my rigs (except the one that I need a new VIN cut master for). But that is because I need to have spare keys stashed at more than one place, and more than one set in daily use for a couple of them too.

Mark...

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Man, you are hard on keys!

I just had a But that is because I need to have spare keys stashed at more than one place, and more than one set in daily use for a couple of them too.

Mark...

How come you could not get 100% geared up with a batch of 6 cut for the one that you need a new VIN cut master for ?


i thought you had all your W-Series codes sorted out , even for the one that VIN cut master ........


,

 

[Mark W]

How come you could not get 100% geared up with a batch of 6 cut for the one that you need a new VIN cut master for ?


i thought you had all your W-Series codes sorted out , even for the one that VIN cut master ........


,

No sure what you are on about here, or why you cut and edited the quote from my post seemingly to make it less clear?

As to thinking that I "had all (my) W-Series codes sorted out , even for the one that VIN cut master ........" I have no idea what you are talking about. Maybe you have me confused with someone else and another discussion?

Anyway, to elaborate some, if it matters... I have a couple of '80s that have different ignition keys than door keys. I have a couple that do not. I have keys cut for three of them and also my 4runner, 2 Chevy trucks and 2 suburbans. I do not mind that two of the '80s need a pair of keys. All of the Chevys are that way from the factory anyway. For the '4runner, with a chip key, I have wired the valet key into the ignition switch and it is permenantly in place under the dash so that I can just use non-chip keys for the rig like it was old school. (I Don't need multiple keys for the trail rigs, so they were not part of the mass cut.) I got all of these cut at the hardware store about half a mile from the shop.

I have not addressed the '80 with the worn key yet because I never seem to get into Anchorage when the dealership is open or if I do, I do not have the time to swing by. Once I have a new, accurately reproducible key to copy, then I will get extras made for that rig also. At hardware store prices, not at dealership prices. I don't care of my key blanks are Toyota or not.

Hopefully that answers your first question. You lost me completely with your question about sorting out codes though. Can't help you there.

Mark...

 

[ToyotaMatt]

No sure what you are on about here, or why you cut and edited the quote from my post seemingly to make it less clear?

As to thinking that I "had all (my) W-Series codes sorted out , even for the one that VIN cut master ........" I have no idea what you are talking about. Maybe you have me confused with someone else and another discussion?

Anyway, to elaborate some, if it matters... I have a couple of '80s that have different ignition keys than door keys. I have a couple that do not. I have keys cut for three of them and also my 4runner, 2 Chevy trucks and 2 suburbans. I do not mind that two of the '80s need a pair of keys. All of the Chevys are that way from the factory anyway. For the '4runner, with a chip key, I have wired the valet key into the ignition switch and it is permenantly in place under the dash so that I can just use non-chip keys for the rig like it was old school. (I Don't need multiple keys for the trail rigs, so they were not part of the mass cut.) I got all of these cut at the hardware store about half a mile from the shop.

I have not addressed the '80 with the worn key yet because I never seem to get into Anchorage when the dealership is open or if I do, I do not have the time to swing by. Once I have a new, accurately reproducible key to copy, then I will get extras made for that rig also. At hardware store prices, not at dealership prices. I don't care of my key blanks are Toyota or not.

Hopefully that answers your first question. You lost me completely with your question about sorting out codes though. Can't help you there.

Mark...

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it is my understanding that TOYOTA has dumped all 12/99 and Older Key codes out of the TIS network as of now ....