Igniter and ballast wiring with painless (1 Viewer)

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Oct 31, 2010
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Just want to make sure before I wire this 79 FJ40, the guy at painless didn't seem all that sure.

He said I should run the pink(coil power) wire to the ballast and then run out the other side of the ballast to the two bladed connector that runs to the + side of the coil and the igniter.

Now my question do I combine the wire coming from the ballast with the two bladed connector or to only the wire that goes to the + side of the coil?
 
Yes. You should run the Pink #920 wire to the Ballast Resistor and then run a wire from the other terminal on the ballast to the + side of the coil.
ScreenHunter_11 Nov. 10 13.38.jpg
 
so do I combine the two wires in the two bladed conector, the one tagged switched 12v?

In the diagram you posted, it also shows a wire running from the ballast to the starter. Is that correct? This started had only two wires on it.
igniter wires.jpg
 
Just attach a ring lug to the wire and unscrew the nut on the positive terminal of the coil and install the wire there.
 
Some time around '79 Toyota got rid of the separate ballast resistor (a 1x1x2 inch wire wound ceramic resistor with a ventilated metal cover) and went with an ignition wire with the resistance built in to the wire. I don't see the old resistor in your picture. At the same time, there are two small wires to the starter motor solenoid besides the large battery cable. One, a black white stripe wire with a ring terminal is the start wire from the ignition key. The other wire, a black.yellow stripe wire is the ballast bypass wire that goes to the + side of the coil to bypass the resistor during cranking for improved cold weather starts.

If you don't have the old resistor and you are replacing the resistor wire (also black/yellow, but larger diameter), then you need to buy an external resistor and wire it as shown in the diagram so the key on wire connects to one end of the resistor (along with the power wire to the ignitor) and the other end of the resistor connects to the + side of the coil.
 
That photo is from this site, not mine just used it as an example.

I do have the ballast in stalled, but there was only one small wire coming off the soleniod. So I need to add a wire from the + side of the coil running to the soleniod?
 
It is possible that you have a replacement (early) starter motor with a solenoid that only has the start wire (Black/white, ring lug terminal) and not the resistor bypass wire (Black/yellow wire, spade push on terminal). If so, you can just skip the bypass wire if you don't live in a really cold location. Use the resistor or the coil may overheat.
 
Ok so this must have an older starter in it. I'm still looking for the answer to what to do with plug that has 2 wires in it. The one runs directly to the coil so that one is easy, but the second one runs into the igniter. Where does that one get connected to? The photo shows the 2 wires coming out of it. The big black and yellow runs to the coil, the small black and yellow runs into the ingniter.
igniter 2 wire.jpg
 
Kelly is using all 79 junk AFAIK.

Here's how it worked in '79-80:
There is a resistor wire in line to the ignition coil power.
The ignitor itself receives a separate 12V power supply.
To bypass the ballast wire during cranking, a signal is sent to the ECU, which supplies a direct 12V to the coil.

78-earlier trucks with ballast resistor/wire employ the more conventional ballast bypas wire on the starter solenoid.

81-later ignition systems run on straight 12V all the time, w/ a variable dwell ignitor keeping the coil from overheating.

HTH
 
Ok so what if there is no ECU how should it be wired? ALL of the origanal wiring is gone, so I have only what the painless kit came with.
 
All the wiring is done(I think). When I turn the key the starer just spins, it does not engage. Checked the wiring, it's wired the way painless says. Any thoughts as to why it's not engaging? It started before the rewire.
 

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