IFS trucks you have a choice

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:eek::eek::eek::eek: $2500 for CV shafts, on IFS, no thank you.

SAS all the way, this is a no-brainer. i guess if you didnt have the tools or skills to do the job this might be an option but dang...
 
That sounds steep. I thought the FJC axle upgrades were something like $8-900 each and less with core exchange. That kit above is for a competition rigs (XRRA, Off Road Racing and TORC), not their normal set.

Always a better idea to call them for parts matching. Their website doesn't show any Toyota equivalent parts.
 
I would like to see how the setup takes abuse verses solid axle swap. or would the two setups be to different to compare?
 
I could buy a lot of CV axles for that or just pick my way through the challenge areas
 
Someone told me those are Porsche axles rebuilt to fit the Yot's... not bad, just interesting.
 
BMThiker Someone told me those are Porsche axles rebuilt to fit the Yot's... not bad, just interesting.
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If that is the case would the high speed cornering improve on the truck?
 
rockabilly cruiser said:
I would like to see how the setup takes abuse verses solid axle swap. or would the two setups be to different to compare?
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That's apples & oranges. Strengthening the CV axles may prevent CV cages from exploding in the short term, but it's putting untested/non-engineered stress on other parts of the driveline... ring & pinion, u-joints, t-case...if you really like hammering it on the rocks. I'd rather change a CV axle on the trail, than a ring & pinion any day!
 
BMThiker said:
That's apples & oranges. Strengthening the CV axles may prevent CV cages from exploding in the short term, but it's putting untested/non-engineered stress on other parts of the driveline... ring & pinion, u-joints, t-case...if you really like hammering it on the rocks. I'd rather change a CV axle on the trail, than a ring & pinion any day!
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it's a valid point but there are other options to breaking R&P which opens a whole different topic.

Do you or do you not build in a weak link?
Some subscribe to the theory (myself included) that building in a weak link into the drive line is a good idea, kind of like a fuse if you will. For instance, make your drive shaft the weakest part of the drive line, replacing drive shafts are cheaper, easier and far more accessible on the trail, ask me how I know.

Others say forget that, don't build in a weak link and if you break something make it stronger the next go around. OK I guess, but there's always going to be a failure point no matter where it is, it's just a matter of where and when you find it.
 
I agree on the designed weak link theory. I've removed both CV's and DS for servicing on the trail, and right now its easier for me to pack a spare CV than it is a spare DS. Also, I've always had a heck of a time wrestling an old u-joint from my DS, even in a shop environment. I guess it comes down to what you feel confident in changing on the trail - given your "weak link" is what actually breaks. As Murphy said, if it can go wrong, it will...and the designed weak link may not be the thing that goes.
 
Everything breaks, so plan for it. Just figure out what you can live with/without on the trail and go have fun!
 
good points I like the idea of a fuse in the drive shaft. changing a CV on a solid axle not fun.
 
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