IFS 4Runner 1 1/2" Lift - Springs and BJ Spacers

[45Kevin]

I bought a 4Runner in the winter, thinking it might entice the wife and niece to come wheeling with me a little more often. You know, comfortable seats, comfortable cabin atmosphere, room for four complete with A/C and CD's.

The truck itself was in quite good condition with only 214K kilometers. That's about 130K miles. I am the second owner and got the truck on the recommendation from a mutual friend of the original owner.

It's 1994 SR5. It has a 5-speed, A/C, cruise, moon roof and a host of other power options.

It also came with bad ball joints and a sagging read end.

So I started combing mud and yotatech looking for the best way to lift it a bit. I also needed new balljoints. I found lots of good info on what products I could use and I decided to get a four corner lift kit from Toytech. It was $275 or so and came with OME rear coils, and aluminum ball joint spacers for the front. I also bought 4 ball joints for CruiserDan at American Toyota. Great service from both places.

What I didn't find on any websites was a real good pictorial how-to.

So hopefully, this will help someone in the future.

Before and after pics of the rear first. You can see that I gained around 3" from where it was. Sorry for the sideways pic.

 

[45Kevin]

I was surprised to see that the kit I ordered had OME coils. I guess I was expecting a no-name brand. The kit also had the good aluminum BJ spacers and new, longer, bolts to fix the ball joints and the spacers. It came with fairly good instuctions.

The ball joints are OEM. My local dealer wanted about $200 per ball joint. All four from Cruisedan, including shipping and exchange rate, came to around $240.

 

[45Kevin]

I tackled the rear springs first.

I borrower / rented a coil spring compressor from the local Auto Value.

After I jacked up the side I was working on, and removed the wheel, I used the spring compressor to compress the spring enough to easily remove it.

I debated removing the shock, and it may have given me more clearance, but I was worried I would break one of the bolts. I had not planned on replacing the shocks until later in the year.

Putting in the new spring was almost as easy as the removal. Because the spring was longer than the original, the compressor could not quite get it short enough to fit back in. As you can see in the third picture, I used a piece of 2x4 to lever the bottom mount (on the axle) so that the new spring would fit in. Be sure properly locate the rubber cup that the bottom of the spring sits in. It is very obvious how it is located.

Regarding the shocks, they may or may not extend an additional 1 1/2". If they don't, then damage make occur to either the shock itself, or the mounts. Perhapes someone with more experience than I can comment on this.

I found that using a power drill or impact gun made the spring compressor work a lot quicker. Becareful of the compressor placement, so that the shaft of it does not interfere with the proper placement of the spring. The shaft extends beyond the end of the spring and impedes rotation of the spring to its proper location.

I easily put enough weight on the 2x4 with my footto lower the axle the inch or two needed to allow the new spring to easily be fitted in place.

Both sides only took a few hours, and is a or job.

 

[45Kevin]

Now to the front.

The before and after pics show almost exsctly 1 1/2" of lift.

After jacking up the corner I was working on, I placed the wheel under the frame. I do this whenever I jack up a vehicle and remove a wheel. If it falls off the jack, the wheel won't go into the ground, or if you are under the vehicle, totally crush you.

I had to remove the shocks (I broke the top bolt on both sides by the way) to replace the upper ball joint and spacer, and whether you are replacing them or not, the upper ball joint needs to be removed. It easy to do. After loosening the big crown nut I used a pickle fork to loosen the shaft. I pound it in as hard as I can (see pic) and then give a good whack on the housing. Sometimes it takes several good whacks, and if I have the access I will hit from opposite sides at the same time. You will probably wreck the ball joint boot using the pickle fork. If iit fits, I will often use a pitman arm remover to put the pressure on the shaft, and then use to hammer wack to get it loose. After the shaft is loose, remove the big crown nut and then the four bolts that secure the ball joint to the uppper A-arm. Don't beat the shaft to lossen the ball joint, even if you leave the crown nut on somewhat, you will still wreck the threads on the shaft.

 

[KLF]

I tackled the rear springs first.

I borrower / rented a coil spring compressor from the local Auto Value.

etc...

No offense, but there is a MUCH easier & safer way to do this. No spring compressor needed. I've done it at least a dozen times.

Unbolt bottoms of both shocks, let 'em hang. Unbolt the endlinks for the anti-sway bar, let it hang. Put the truck in 4WD, drive it up on a set of ramps, but crossed-up (one under LF tire, the other under the RR tire). The old spring will just about fall out, you can easily remove it. Put the new spring in. Back off the ramps, swap them around, drive it up on the ramps, do the same with the other spring. Bolt the shocks and endlinks back on. Done. Takes about 20 minutes.

 

[45Kevin]

Since I was in there and they were shot, I also repaced the lower ball joints. This is not neccessary to install the lift though. I needed a snipe to loosen the crown nut on it. I also un bolted the connection of the anti-sway bar to the lower control arm.The connection is on the rear side of the axle and behind the caliper. This allowed me spread the two control arms far enough apart to get the extra 1 1/2" inches of spacer in place.

The idea of the spacer is to push the lower control arm down, ergo lifting the chassis and body. It makes for a higher angle on the CV's at both ends of the axle. Lots of people say that puts a lot more wear on them and the CV boots, so I will be installing manual hubs so that when they are unlocked the CV's and boots won't be turning.

 

[45Kevin]

No offense, but there is a MUCH easier & safer way to do this. No spring compressor needed. I've done it at least a dozen times.

None taken, and that sounds like a cool way to do it. I was trying to undo as little as possible to prevent breaking studs and bolts.

 

[45Kevin]

Now for the part that was the most confusing in the supplied directions. I had to cut away a portion of the upper A-arm (I use upper control arm for this piece as well) so that the spacer fits in. The first side was trial and error, one sliver at a time. The second side was done much quicker. I used a grinder with a cut-off disc. You can see the amount that I ended up cutting out. It is about 1/2" by 3 1/2" of metal. The spacer needs to fit in the underside of the upper A-arm and line up with the holes. Be sure to put the slot on the downside of the spacer. It allows water and dirt to drain out of the big hole in the center of the space.

 

[45Kevin]

Be careful with the grinder in that small space. It bounced off once and got my hand.

 

[Toyo Boyo]

If you don't install the manual hubs, you will become expert at changing CV boots, especially if you wheel - ask me, I know

I did figure out a way of pulling the front drive shafts from under the truck - releasing the inner end first - dismantle that end - and then it all drops out bringing the out part of the CV with it - saves dismantling the hub every time.

 

[Combat Chuck]

Be careful with the grinder in that small space. It bounced off once and got my hand.

ooohh, yeah! still have scars on my right from when the grinder walked away from me on my 40's rocker panel!

keep up the good work man, I'd liked to see how this runner looks back on its feet!

 

[45Kevin]

The first pic shows where the spacer and the balljoint go. It is the underside of the upper A-arm and you can see where I expanded the opening to allow the spacer to fit up in there. I also shot a coat of rust paint over the freshly cut edges.

The second pic shows the spacer and new ball joint loosely in place to make sure I had cut away enough metal. The bolts actually goes in from the top. I found it easier to put he spacer and balljoint together first and then put them up intp place and use the upside down bolt to alighn them into place. I also found it easier to loosely put the balljoint shaft into the hole and then install the balljoint space combo in to the upper A-arm.

The third picture is how I got the whole assembly back together. Remember, the torsion bars are forcing the upper A-arm downward so you need to spread the upper and lower arms apart. I used a bottle jack and some bits of wood.

 

[45Kevin]

So...the finished version. 1 1/2" higher in the front and 3" higher in the rear. The first pic show the new look with the stock 31x10.50x15 tires on.

The next two pics are on a camping / wheeling trip. I put the 33's off my 45 on and they fit fairly snug but don't rub at all.

The third pic shows the rear end articulation. It may be hampered by the original length shocks. They'll get changed some day.