If I were to...

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C

Curse

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Threads
24
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147
Location
Idaho
My 22R has 300k miles.

As soon as I get it rebuilt (without changing rings or bearings as its too expensive), I may want to change out the engine.

I was thinking either a 1.9L Volkswagen TDI Diesel, or a Chevy 350.

Assuming I wanted a Chevy 350:

Where should I get it? Pay $1500 for a new one or rebuild one? How hard would this be? What year range should I be looking in if I'm planning to run it stock? Would it be hard to fit?

My main thing with the 350 is they're relatively cheap, you practically trip over parts for them, and I hear they're reliable and easy to work on.

Assuming the TDI:

Where to get one? New or used?

I know quite a bit about TDIs, so my main concern is with the 350 knowledge.

What do you guys think?
 
What vehicle are you working on?

The 350 V8 is a tough fit in the mini-truck. The 4.3L V6 is a better fit and works great in them.

But why do all of the work with a swap? And, a swap is going to cost more than rebuilding the 22R.
 
KY854RUN said:
What vehicle are you working on?

The 350 V8 is a tough fit in the mini-truck. The 4.3L V6 is a better fit and works great in them.

But why do all of the work with a swap? And, a swap is going to cost more than rebuilding the 22R.
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Its for a mini-truck, an 86.

The reason for the swap is the 300k miles, and I can't afford the parts like rings right now, and I want it running asap. After its running with the top end rebuild I'm doing, it will last me another 6 months to a year when I can afford the swap. I'd rather not take it all the way down again in the future, and even if I did, I would be better off with a brand new engine anyway I think. Since its something to do in the future sometime, I can just start putting away money for it.

I was thinking the 350 would be a tough fit as well.

Would the 4.3 have the same part availability out in BFE as the 350?
 
I still don't get it.

I think you're mistaken if you think an engine swap will be cheaper than just rebuilding the 22R the proper way in the first place.

I just don't see the economics of your choice.

If the rebuild you're doing now will only last 6-12 months, then you're not doing the job right. What do you expect will happen at this time?

Just curious...
 
The thing is, I really need to get the truck running within the next week, and I won't have 300 dollars for rings for another couple months. So I figure if I'm going to be tearing the engine down *again* (already had one stuck head bolt, I'm terrified to take off the transmission to replace the clutch) and doing the rebuild *again* and having to rebuy all the gaskets, rings, bearings, etc. I'd rather just spend a bit more and get something potentially better with zero miles.

Or maybe my reasoning is retarded.

Anyway, I'm located in Boise, Idaho, the truck is registered in Custer County, so I don't have to pass emissions tests or any of that crap, therefore I doubt anyone would ever even know that I have a different engine than the card says (not to mention they put my vehicle as a Toyota SR5. It isn't even an SR5 -.- )

So yeah.

I do have 2 other vehicles, I just have to get the truck moved under its own power from my parent's house over to mine very soon.

Oh, and if I did swap the engine, I would also be putting in a W56 transmission, and maybe a T-100 clutch ?
 
Curse said:
So yeah.

I do have 2 other vehicles, I just have to get the truck moved under its own power from my parent's house over to mine very soon.
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So, why does this truck have to move under its own power to get to your house?

I understand about not having money when you need it. But, why not get a buddy to help you tow it to your house. Then let it sit until you have enough to get a 22R long block. A rebuilt 22R long block will have zero miles on it. Some shops can even build it with larger valves and a new cam for more power, for a little more money.

Doing the top end now and then swapping to a different engine later, is just throwing money away.

And, who's to say that a tight top end won't cause other problems. A friend of mine put a fresh set of heads on a high mileage V8 because the old valves were leaking. In less than a month the engine had a rod knocking. Because the new heads held better compression, the high mileage rod bearings couldn't take the increase in power. So, he ended up buying a new engine anyway.

If you need more power, the 22R can be built to the 130-140 HP range and that is plenty of power for even a modified 86 mini truck. But if you need more than that, then do a V6 swap. Or if you want better mileage, then do the TDI swap. But, the least expensive one will be doing the 22R, even if you have it built for more power. Plus, the 22R will take the least amount of time to do.

I have looked at these swaps and my 4Runner still has the 4 cylinder engine that Toyota put in it. It has been rebuilt and upgraded.
 
What I think I'm going to do is see if i can get a lower mileage 22R or RE and just put it in in place of my current.

Mine is already down to almost nothing (as you can see) so all I'd need to do is unbolt it from the transmission and the engine mounts and drop a newer one in. Also I already have the peripherals in place.

If I do this I can then bring the engine in its pieces over to MY garage, and spend the next 6 months completely rebuilding it and painting/prettying up every part of it so it looks like a proper high performance engine :)

Now I just need to find a 22R/E. I'm thinking I can get one for $200-350 from a wrecked or pulled Toyota
 
Update.

I'm going to pick up a 22R that is coming out of an 85 2wd, unknown mileage but the guy says its about 150k. He wants $150 for the engine in running condition (no distributor, but I have one).

I'm going to just drop this engine in and run it while I am rebuilding mine to a higher performance spec (baja, anyone? :D ) and will probably be putting in a T-100 clutch.

Any objections or things I should be looking for in the engine? It is still in the truck and running atm, I have not physically looked at it.
 
D'Animal said:
You may have to swap oils pans and oil pumps. Check it out first and order a gasket if you have to.
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Curse said:
Why's that? o_O
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The shape and contour of the pan may be different from the 4x4 to the 2x4 version. Finding this out when you are literally putting it in the truck is the wrong time.

I had to swap pans when I did the 22RE swap in a 2wd 1988 mini. The first engine came out of a rolled 4-runner and I had to swap pans and the pumps or actually the oil pickup tube.
 
D'Animal said:
The shape and contour of the pan may be different from the 4x4 to the 2x4 version. Finding this out when you are literally putting it in the truck is the wrong time.

I had to swap pans when I did the 22RE swap in a 2wd 1988 mini. The first engine came out of a rolled 4-runner and I had to swap pans and the pumps or actually the oil pickup tube.
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Ahh, I'm guessing its not that difficult then? The 4x4 pump and pan will bolt right on?
 
If you want a diesel, an option I havent seen done before (but is possible) is to use an Audi diesel that was orignally put in late 80's volvo 740's, backed by an asian warner auto transmisison (factory volvo trans), to an inchworm toyota 2wd truck to mini truck adapter.

Cheaper, and more avaliable option for a diesel motor in a mini truck
 
Curse said:
Ahh, I'm guessing its not that difficult then? The 4x4 pump and pan will bolt right on?
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The oil pan and pickup tube may need to be changed, they are different in different vehicles. The oil pump is behind the front pulley and has nothing to do with the motor fitting in the truck. I would change the oil pump seals, they are a common leak after ~120K, also I would replace the rear main seal and valve cover gasket.
 
Yes, you will need to swap the oil pan and pickup tube. Pans from '85 and up don't use a gasket (although NAPA and AutoZone will be happy to sell you one). You seal them with FIPG. I like the Permatex Right Stuff, although the OEM black stuff is really good too.
 
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