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BreckenridgeCruiser

BreckenridgeCruiser

I break things.
SILVER Star
10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Aug 14, 2006
Threads
399
Messages
4,449
Location
Ventura, CA
Website
teqtach.com
If Money grew on trees how would you do the follwing...

I have a BJ44 body that I want to strip and paint with the goal of the work to remove and neutralize rust as much as possible. Also, when coating the metal, I want to make the truck as bulletproof/corrosionproof as possible.

I want to line-x the interior and underside of the tub (with paint on the outside body only) to protect the hell out of the truck. I will most likely use a thick coat for noise and heat dampening as well.

I specifically want to know whether you would Acid dip or media blast and why. I also want to know which is better, Epoxy primer, POR-15, or Rust bullet and why.

Lastly any tips, tricks or process help would be much appreciated as I am a noob.

P.S. I don't have a ton of cash, but this is a priority and when I do it, I want to do the best I possiby can to strip, prep and coat/protect the body of this truck.

Thanks!
 
No one? I did search... I promise!

No threads really seem to talk about the differences between the rust coatings (POR and Rust Bullet)...

Someone has to have an opinion...
 
I wish I had an opinion as to which would be better, but I am interested as well. I have heard good things about both POR-15 and Rust Bullet. I think I will be going with POR-15 for mine. I just had a few spots of metal replaced (Floorpans and rear right corner). I plan on using POR-15 on the inside and underneath of those parts. For the outside I used a metal etching primer, i figure that should be good enough. Good luck man, I will be watching this thread to see what everyone else has to say.
 
I've used POR-15 multiple times, never Rust Bullet. Though, I did compare the two when I was picking a product. The first time was about 10 years ago on a FJ62 rebuild.

I did the whole interior tub and some under-tub of a HJ47 troopy before taking it to Rhinoliner and it turned out awesome. I already applied POR-15 to the interior tub of a 45 crew cab and plan on using Upol Raptor Liner (tintable/color match) over it and on the lower half of the outer body.

POR-15 is a serious product, so use gloves and a mask.
 
Thanks for the info...

So has anyone used Zer vs Bullet vs POR? I have heard plenty of people that have used one, but not more than one. If you used one, was there a reason you went with the one you used?

Also, Styill looking for any acid dip vs media advice...

Thanks again and keep it coming!

K
 
If you are planning on acid dipping or media blasting you definitely want to spray it with epoxy primer. Topcoating can be your choice, but I would go with line-x or rhinolining over the epoxy.

In regards to acid dipping v media blasting, there are some advantages and disadvantages to both. Acid dipping will take EVERYTHING off of the tub. This means every spot you can't see will have the paint/primer/seam sealer etc. removed leaving only bare metal. This will obviously cause it to oxidize if not primed. Most people who have bodies acid dipped will get them galvanized to prevent rust. This is another expense added to the process, but as you said this is if money grew on trees. You can sometimes run into adhesion problems when painting/primering over galvanized panels.

Now with media blasting, it works on more of a 2 dimensional sense. You will not get into all the areas that are welded together or sealed with seam sealer. This is good and bad in that if it has rust you can't see it will not be treated, but if it's clean original paint/primer it will not be affected. Cost is a little less, but you also run the risk of a novice doing the job warping panels.
 
If I were trying to get the best rust proofing possible?

I'd probably do the body work and get all of the holes cut, drilled, and rust repaired that would be needed. At which point I would take the tub and have it hot dip galvanized with a thin coat. Followed by epoxy primer (DP-50LF is my choice). Then paint.

I'm semi seriously considering all of that if I buy a new tub for my 45.

That said, on the 40, we're just media blasting the metal and it'll be painted using DP-50LF as a base. I'm not a fan of acid dipping, as it's just so hard to get all of the acid off of the metal and out of the nooks and crannies. I know it will work its way out for a few years (and mess up the paint in the process--letting in more rust).

Dan
 
I have also been in your situation several times before.

Here is what I recommend. First, I cringe when I hear the words "undercoating", "rhino-lining", or even "line-x". I hate that stuff. Given the fact that I am pretty "Toyota Purist", I would never put that crap on a cruiser. If moisture gets under it (pin-hole, or whatever from the opposing side) just TRY to wire-wheel/media blast/grind/sand/whatever that crap off. It's not oem, it looks like crap....ok enough of that.

It is all in the PROPER preparation and care of you vehicle that will protect it.

Things to consider:

1. How often are you going to drive the cruiser?
2. What types of weather is this cruiser going to see?
3. What "look" are you shooting for?
4. Where will the cruiser be parked/stored?
5. Long term goals with the cruiser?

I think my problem (sorry) is that I make the assumption that everyone is wanting to restore their cruisers to OEM standards and look. This means, no crap-ass fender hacking and putting flares on, etc..

With all of that being said, if you can afford to have your tub and frame media blasted (to remove all debris, dirt, oil, and so forth) and reveal any weak steal, do it.

You can then replace (cut out and weld in good steel) rust areas, grind smooth (if you don't know how to do this, have someone help you - or you run the risk of warping your body.

Once you have a clean tub - you are MILES ahead. Same goes for the frame. CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN.

On frames if you can afford to powdercoat, great - if not, "Frame-saver" or POR-15 is great because you are sealing the steal from the elements. You'll have to get a few brushes, long short, thin, thick to cover everywhere. With a media blasted frame, you'll be able to easily see where you've missed. Brush it lightly over the frame numbers so you don't encase those (stamped in the front right frame rail).

I have used both products and both turned out wonderful. Frame-saver is however, about half the cost.

Continuing with the body,
1. I use a 2K etching primer on the steel, and 100% coat the thing, 360 degrees, and am very liberal with it. So that I know every square inch is covered. Usually 4-6 coats OR:
2. On visible areas, I wet-block with 220, and then apply a final coat
3. I then spray a sealer (usually a reduced primer) over all of that. (full coverage).
4. I then spray a base-coat, usually mid-grade. (Lesonal, PPG, etc..)
5. I then finish with a high-end clear.
6. Wet sand and buff.

A BJ44 will likely cost you 600-1000 in supplies for a 5000-7000 paint job. I've shot several cruisers and can say that with a pretty good amount of confidence.

I hope this helps - good luck!!
 
dmaddox said:
Here is what I recommend. First, I cringe when I hear the words "undercoating", "rhino-lining", or even "line-x".

Things to consider:

1. How often are you going to drive the cruiser?
2. What types of weather is this cruiser going to see?
3. What "look" are you shooting for?
4. Where will the cruiser be parked/stored?
5. Long term goals with the cruiser?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. In answer I have been debating the line-x on the interior of the body. I will do the complete underside for sure to protect all of the body work and blast dip revealed steel. Too many rocks to worry about here in colorado.

1) I driver her daily
2) all kinds of weather, and Mag Chloride, and salt when I travel.
3) Look is not that important as protection is utmost concern.
4) outside mostly, but doesnt really matter as I drive her daily.
5) Expo rig. I basically never want to have to do the body work again. That is why I am looking to eradicate/seal all rust as best as possible and then to protect the newly protected steel fro the elements is as durable and permanent way as possible.

I am not againt line-xing the insidefo the rig, I was especially looking at doing a thick but smooth coat in body matched color. I do not like the black liner inside the rigs.

K
 
dmaddox said:
On frames if you can afford to powdercoat, great - if not, "Frame-saver" or POR-15 is great because you are sealing the steal from the elements. You'll have to get a few brushes, long short, thin, thick to cover everywhere. With a media blasted frame, you'll be able to easily see where you've missed. Brush it lightly over the frame numbers so you don't encase those (stamped in the front right frame rail).
Click to expand...

To me, if you're going with what the poster said about money growing on trees I would go with galvanizing over media blasting/powder coating/POR15. The main reason is these frames have so many holes in them from the factory that dirt and debris will remain in the inner rails no matter how much media blasting you do. Painting the exterior can be like putting bondo over rot. You can make it look good, but the rust will come back. As for powder coating, I never see the advantages. It is costly due to the products involved, and it has no touch up capabilities. It also is prepped the same way you would prep a frame you want to apply POR15 to. Yes it's rock hard, but once it starts cracking you better buck up AGAIN to have it done. Touch ups are not really an option. I've onwed plenty of bumpers/suspension parts etc. that were powder coated and never had luck with them holding up to the weather let alone trail abuse. Dipping and galvanizing is probably the best protection for a frame.
 
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That was actually my plan... and there is a place here in denver that does galvanizing. There is even a post here on mufd about a guy doing a 60 frame that way. I was even thinking of doing the body if the panels wouldn't warp, but the jury is still out on that...

Can you paint over galvanizing? I would assume you just rough it up, prime and them paint... correct?

Oh, and it's not that super pricey for the frame galv...
 
Well, BreckCruiser....
If you're never wanting to do body work again, I wouldn't Line-X the underside of the cruiser. It looks good, sounds quiet and is a rock-chip preventer BUT.....

Dirt, water and road crap will aways get stuck under the Line-X in places that it just didn't get to. A super small pin-sized hole will be an open invitation to water and Mag-Chloride. Rust will start to do it's number on the body, under the Line-X and just eat away over time. All the while, you're thinking your not rusting out from within - then it starts to flake off and bubble under the coating.

You're much better off, on a rig you're keeping forever to just spray numerous coats of DP (just like Dan and I) and that way when the rust starts - you can see it and do something about it before it graduates out of the 'surface rust' territory.

Best of luck, and let me know if I can be of help!! Would love to see your 44! Where in Denver are you located?
 
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