Ideal 4x4 settings for snow... (1 Viewer)

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Snow man say



4psi and chains!

 
Not sure the brand, the bags came with eagles on them. 4Wheelparts in fresno had them in stock, all the way up to 40 inch tires.
 
I know this is a crazy thread revival, but it's exactly what I was wondering about. I've pretty much only driven in the snow FWD, RWD, or 4WD with a locked center. I've done a fair bit in 4WD with the locked center. What exactly is the benefit of not having the locked center? I'm driving over snow/ice covered gravel roads that are quite hilly/twisty in parts without issue, but maybe there's some stuff I'm missing.
 
I know this is a crazy thread revival, but it's exactly what I was wondering about. I've pretty much only driven in the snow FWD, RWD, or 4WD with a locked center. I've done a fair bit in 4WD with the locked center. What exactly is the benefit of not having the locked center? I'm driving over snow/ice covered gravel roads that are quite hilly/twisty in parts without issue, but maybe there's some stuff I'm missing.
I have many hours driving in snow, rain, and ice in my 80. The AWD is extremely stable on road and I actually prefer it to the old school ways of the Rockwell T221 or the NP205 transfer case. The viscous coupler (VC) allows flawless power transfer at highway speeds to make it feel planted and not slippery.

As soon as I slow down and pull onto side streets, I'll lock my CDL if the roads are 100% snow and ice covered. I used to like the "hop" I would get on the old school trucks when turning on not so slippery surfaces, but not so much on my 80.

I don't drive slow, so I adjust my settings as I drive based on how it feels. I will either turn on or off the CDL while rolling to see how it feels. I highly recommend the CDL switch and the Pin 7 mod.

If I had lockers, it would be selectable front and rear with separate switches to control which end I want locked.

My old school was a 1969 Chevrolet K10 with a 350, 4 speed, and limited slip front and rear, with Rockwell T221 gear driven transfer case.

My son's current toy is a 1970 GMC K2500 with 350, 4 speed, Detroit locker in the rear and open front with NP205 transfer case.

Lots of miles in all of these and I still prefer my 80 on the highway at speed for stability. I never had fear of the old ones, but I also had lots of available HP to pull me out of a situation and I don't have that in my 80.
 
I have many hours driving in snow, rain, and ice in my 80. The AWD is extremely stable on road and I actually prefer it to the old school ways of the Rockwell T221 or the NP205 transfer case. The viscous coupler (VC) allows flawless power transfer at highway speeds to make it feel planted and not slippery.

As soon as I slow down and pull onto side streets, I'll lock my CDL if the roads are 100% snow and ice covered. I used to like the "hop" I would get on the old school trucks when turning on not so slippery surfaces, but not so much on my 80.

I don't drive slow, so I adjust my settings as I drive based on how it feels. I will either turn on or off the CDL while rolling to see how it feels. I highly recommend the CDL switch and the Pin 7 mod.

If I had lockers, it would be selectable front and rear with separate switches to control which end I want locked.

My old school was a 1969 Chevrolet K10 with a 350, 4 speed, and limited slip front and rear, with Rockwell T221 gear driven transfer case.

My son's current toy is a 1970 GMC K2500 with 350, 4 speed, Detroit locker in the rear and open front with NP205 transfer case.

Lots of miles in all of these and I still prefer my 80 on the highway at speed for stability. I never had fear of the old ones, but I also had lots of available HP to pull me out of a situation and I don't have that in my 80.

Thank you, that's interesting. I know unlocked is definitely better on the road, but if you were to occasionally hit a snowy or icy patch, having AWD instead of RWD would be better. I should do the CDL switch mod though, so I can toggle it on and off and see how it is. I just haven't noticed the center locking getting in my way in really slick conditions, so have been curious what I may be missing.
 
@ozarkmud - To add to what @BILT4ME said and what others have previously posted in this thread, - Think about it this way: Once you can sustain momentum on a basically flat slick road, the best "settings" is to have nothing locked. Let me explain why. Most people hate their ABS on ice. Why? Except for mechanical malfunctions, most negative comments are "The brake pedal just shudders and it's like my brakes don't work like they should!" The ABS is working, it's just because of a situation that has popped up, you're trying to stop or slow down too fast for the the wheels not to lock up. The same principle for stopping on a slick surface applies for maintaining control. Only when the wheel(s) are rolling can you steer, accelerate or slow down. Your vehicle has 4 wheels and it's already been said that on turns and corners, each wheel has a unique path or speed through the turn. If any drive shaft or axle is locked with another, that will interfere with each wheel maintaining it's unique speed and will negatively affect the handling of the vehicle.

Now deep snow, a hill or rough terrain is an entirely different situation. Because of the resistance of the snow, hill or obsticals, you may need the help of the CDL or axle lockers to maintain or initiate momentum. But driving on highways and city streets in slick conditions, once you get up to speed and can maintain that speed, turn off all lockers until you need them again, say maybe a stop sign or light, hill to go up, freeway ramp to get up to a safe highway speed or maybe just getting up your driveway.
 
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