I want a slightly wider stance...

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Feb 25, 2018
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my wheel/tires (25mm offset-275/70-18s) are just slightly tucked, and I prefer a little bit of tire sticking out.

Who is running spacers? Which size? Which brand are deemed safe/quality?

I have only seen the 1.25” spidertrax spacers. Are there others?

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Call and speak with Lenny. He owns the company and can help you come to a decision
 
I'm all for wider stance. Just understand that offset is not just about track width. It's also an integral dimension to suspension geometry. Stock offset is 60. Get too far away from that, and handling will suffer. The steering may pull on acceleration and braking, and in general, the steering response suffers. Including turn radius, which will get larger. I personally would not go further than 25mm offset as that's already pretty aggressive. With a 1" spacer, you'd be at 0 offset which I have not heard anyone doing. There's always a first though.

Note as one goes larger diameter in tire, the ideal offset is lower than 60. e.g. 33" tire, optimal offset is ~50mm.

The better way to add width with minimal offset, is by increasing tire width. That way, the offset doesn't have to deviate too much, while putting the sidewall and tread further out.

Here's ~35mm offset via 1" spacers on stock wheels, 305 section tires. If you did 305/65/18s, you'd be another ~1/2" out from this. There will be some wheel well trimming to make that work as steering "tire swing" is more pronounced at lower offsets.
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I really like where your tires are sitting in relation to the body, looks perfect to me. It's all preference I know, but I just installed spacers to get back to stock offset (I installed Tundra wheels on LX). I had a lug stud break, and my spacer was hanging by 1 lug nut. I don't think that's common of course, but keep in mind that you'll loose the ability to visually inspect your lugs without removing the wheel to see the spacer.
 
I’ve run 50 offset RW with & without 1.25” spacers... then 35’s without spacers...and now 35’s with .75” spacers. I have never experienced pull on breaking or diminished handling.
If anything, street cornering improved after adding the latest .75” Boras—specifically the near elimination of tire squeal in fast-turning onramps onto highways, etc.

You do need to consider the larger sweep of your tires with spacers and/or extended offset, which will likely require mudflap removal and cutting/reshaping plastic, etc.
 
if this vehicle is going to be a long term commitment for you, the Tundra suspension swap in the front may be a route to consider.
handling improves, commonality of parts increases, and the steering geometry is not affected by adding spacers. as a bonus, if you ever want to run 35s, you avoid all the KDSS rubbing issues.
it is not the cheapest option, hence, the determination if you are going to keep the truck for a long while.
 
if this vehicle is going to be a long term commitment for you, the Tundra suspension swap in the front may be a route to consider.
handling improves, commonality of parts increases, and the steering geometry is not affected by adding spacers. as a bonus, if you ever want to run 35s, you avoid all the KDSS rubbing issues.
it is not the cheapest option, hence, the determination if you are going to keep the truck for a long while.

I see you guys talking about this. What parts are actually swapped out?

I have icon front coil overs and rear shock/springs currently. Would that stuff transfer over?

I don’t understand the benefits in doing this? Am I swapping out beefy LC parts for more fragile Tundra parts?
 
if this vehicle is going to be a long term commitment for you, the Tundra suspension swap in the front may be a route to consider.
handling improves, commonality of parts increases, and the steering geometry is not affected by adding spacers. as a bonus, if you ever want to run 35s, you avoid all the KDSS rubbing issues.
it is not the cheapest option, hence, the determination if you are going to keep the truck for a long while.
What is a ball cost to convert to the Tundra suspension. Thanks
 
I’ve run 50 offset RW with & without 1.25” spacers... then 35’s without spacers...and now 35’s with .75” spacers. I have never experienced pull on breaking or diminished handling.
If anything, street cornering improved after adding the latest .75” Boras—specifically the near elimination of tire squeal in fast-turning onramps onto highways, etc.

That's because you fortuitously nailed it.

As I mentioned earlier, ideal offset is a function of tire overall diameter. From my back of the napkin rough estimates:
Stock 31.2" tire, it's 60mm.
For a 33" tire, ~50mm.
35" tire, ~35mm.
If you want to delve deeper, it's a function of the kingpin inclination and scrub radius.

1.25" spacer on a 50mm offset wheel puts it at ~20mm offset.
.75" spacer on a 50mm offset wheel puts it at ~30mm offset.

So having that .75" spacer now puts you within 5mm from the optimal offset for a 35" tire!

That squeal, that's another symptom of the wrong offset. And you've now reduced it by optimizing the offset. Great job!
 
That's because you fortuitously nailed it.

As I mentioned earlier, ideal offset is a function of tire overall diameter. From my back of the napkin rough estimates:
Stock 31.2" tire, it's 60mm.
For a 33" tire, ~50mm.
35" tire, ~35mm.
If you want to delve deeper, it's a function of the kingpin inclination and scrub radius.

1.25" spacer on a 50mm offset wheel puts it at ~20mm offset.
.75" spacer on a 50mm offset wheel puts it at ~30mm offset.

So having that .75" spacer now puts you within 5mm from the optimal offset for a 35" tire!

That squeal, that's another symptom of the wrong offset. And you've now reduced it by optimizing the offset. Great job!

So this offset calculation is width independent, purely a function of diameter/radius?
 
Yes, width independent, because offset is where the centerline is of the wheel/tire.

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High speed discussion, schooling me.
 
FWIW if you get wheels too far outside of the wheel well there is a tendency for AT tires to grab gravel and throw it against the body causing paint damage and eventually leading to rust.

Ask me how I know......
 
:clap:
That's because you fortuitously nailed it.

As I mentioned earlier, ideal offset is a function of tire overall diameter. From my back of the napkin rough estimates:
Stock 31.2" tire, it's 60mm.
For a 33" tire, ~50mm.
35" tire, ~35mm.
If you want to delve deeper, it's a function of the kingpin inclination and scrub radius.

1.25" spacer on a 50mm offset wheel puts it at ~20mm offset.
.75" spacer on a 50mm offset wheel puts it at ~30mm offset.

So having that .75" spacer now puts you within 5mm from the optimal offset for a 35" tire!

That squeal, that's another symptom of the wrong offset. And you've now reduced it by optimizing the offset. Great job!

I kinda like this little routine…

-I figure Out how to make stuff work… ...And then you tell me why I am mathematically right! Ha ha! :hillbilly:

**Please send your phone number so that I can periodically put you on the phone with my wife to do your mathematical magic… LOL
 

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