HZJ77 Exhaust Wisdom

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Jul 2, 2004
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Time to rework the entire exhaust system from the manifold back. I'm tempted to go back to the stock Toyota system mainly because of the inherent quality. Not sure if there's any availability on these though. Any recommendations re. vendor contacts for the stock system or quality custom shops in the Okanagan, BC would be great. This is a low key rig running 235-75r15's and no turbo. Thanks in advance.
exhast.webp
 
I'm not sold on stock exhaust systems being the best... Any reputable exhaust shop should be able to do a good job and can use materials like SS so you'll pretty much never have to do it again...

With some straight pipe a few U/J bends, flex pipes, some hangers and a welder you can recreate that "factory" exhaust for a 10th of the price!

It all come down to time and money... I have more of the latter and my new pet peeve is waiting for parts
 
Thanks for the feedback. I should have mentioned that pricing for the 3 pipe sections was just over $700 (assume USD) per the toyodiy site (not sure how dated that info is). I'll fab up any of the small incidental stuff that isn't readily available and use a US vendor/shipping address if I end up go this way. Agreed stainless would be ultimate but has to be $$$$$$$$$$.
 
TwoThirtyDirty said:
Time to rework the entire exhaust system from the manifold back. I'm tempted to go back to the stock Toyota system mainly because of the inherent quality. Not sure if there's any availability on these though. Any recommendations re. vendor contacts for the stock system or quality custom shops in the Okanagan, BC would be great. This is a low key rig running 235-75r15's and no turbo. Thanks in advance.

Depending on your 1HZ generation, I should be able to procure gaskets as well as main bits.

Drop a line if you would like.

:cheers:
 
Are you planning on following the stock route?
I would go with a 2.5in exhaust in stainless with a muffler.
Build it with a couple of u/j bends, some flanges and voi-la!

Here is a question not to hi-jack or anything. I am going to be turboing mine hopefully in June.
Is it a bad idea to follow the the stock route until going over the frame on the drivers side THEN
go straight back? Do I have to worry about the fluid lines on the inside of the frame or heating up anything
on the non stock route? Simon Liew did a the same on prariecruiser's rig.
 
ForealBoreal said:
Here is a question not to hi-jack or anything. I am going to be turboing mine hopefully in June.
Is it a bad idea to follow the the stock route until going over the frame on the drivers side THEN
go straight back? Do I have to worry about the fluid lines on the inside of the frame or heating up anything
on the non stock route? Simon Liew did a the same on prariecruiser's rig.

I could be out to lunch here but ATEB does the 3" inside the frame rail rather than jumping over underneath the driver.... I haven't heard any problems with this and your exhaust should last longer.... I shoulda gone this route....

Hijack out!
 
2.5" will apparently just fit for the 70 series with the vacuum shift transfer
3" will fit with the manual transfer

I have the vacuum shift and I want to go the 3" route
 
I haven't found in my HZJ70 with manual transfer the way to bring in the 3" pipe, it's not space bettwin the transfer and the chassis. That's with it came out of the chassis in the down pipe and then retorne to the left side of the car.
 
Yeah, I think I'm gonna go 2.5" with factory routing. No time in the schedule though so gotta find someone in the Okanagan to weld stainless. Suggestions?
 
l have a stock exhaust system for sale in good shapeif you are interested.
l turbo mine with 3" pipes.
 
Thanks for the offers Beno and Simon. I found a local guy that does stainless and mandrel work out of his garage. Booked in to have it done next week. Will post pics when it's complete.
 
We've just done the exhausts on my FJ75, its got a vortec chev and twin 2.5" pipes down either side, there was enough room to get past the vacuum actuator but we had to swap the straight fittings for some elbows to keep the rubber vacuum hoses away from the exhaust, we also shifted the brake lines up onto the top of the chassis rails to keep them away from the heat, simularily we had the same issue with the fuel lines but we swapped those other to the other side of the truck for the new engine anyway, my cab sits on 2" body lift blocks so that gives me a bit more clearance than a standard truck, hope that helps



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done the exhausts on my FJ75, its got a vortec chev and twin 2.5" pipes down either side, there was enough room to get past the vacuum actuator but we had to swap the straight fittings for some elbows to keep the rubber vacuum hoses away from the exhaust, we also shifted the brake lines up onto the top of the chassis rails to keep them away from the heat, simularily we had the same issue with the fuel lines but we swapped those other to the other side of the truck for the new engine anyway, my cab sits on 2" body lift blocks so that gives me a bit more clearance than a standard truck, hope that helps


 

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