Hzj77 advice

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T

Trowter

Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Threads
1
Messages
8
Location
Dunedin
Hi

I'm new to the Landcruiser world but looking for some advice on purchasing a 77 series with the 1hz, it's currently got 450000 on the clock.

I know these motors are know to go around the clock but that seems like a lot of k's. What can I expect maintenance wise? The truck looks very tidy and has minimal rust etc so that isn't an issue. Just trying to get an idea of what I can expect from a Landy that's this used, would you purchase a 1hz with that many k's?

Cheers
 
Trowter said:
Hi

I'm new to the Landcruiser world but looking for some advice on purchasing a 77 series with the 1hz, it's currently got 450000 on the clock.

I know these motors are know to go around the clock but that seems like a lot of k's. What can I expect maintenance wise? The truck looks very tidy and has minimal rust etc so that isn't an issue. Just trying to get an idea of what I can expect from a Landy that's this used, would you purchase a 1hz with that many k's?

Cheers
Click to expand...
Welcome to the madness.

1) Sorry to be this guy, but in my book, a landy is a Land Rover, which this most certainly isn't! This is a Cruiser.
2) It may be fine at 450,000 - Maintenance, maintenance, maintenance. I would be doing a compression test to see how everything is inside - if she's been regularly serviced, 450,000 ks needn't be a deal-breaker. I would guess the auto would be starting to get a little tired and the engine isn't new anymore. I would factor front and rear axle service, full fluids, belts and hoses and save up for a 1HDT swap!

Are you able to do your own work on the truck or would you be paying labour?
 
AussieHJCruza said:
Welcome to the madness.

1) Sorry to be this guy, but in my book, a landy is a Land Rover, which this most certainly isn't! This is a Cruiser.
2) It may be fine at 450,000 - Maintenance, maintenance, maintenance. I would be doing a compression test to see how everything is inside - if she's been regularly serviced, 450,000 ks needn't be a deal-breaker. I would guess the auto would be starting to get a little tired and the engine isn't new anymore. I would factor front and rear axle service, full fluids, belts and hoses and save up for a 1HDT swap!

Are you able to do your own work on the truck or would you be paying labour?
Click to expand...


Thnaks for the reply,

Unfortunately I am in Dunedin and the Cruiser :) I'm looking at is all the way in Auckland, I have booked an AA inspection for it but not sure on what that will really tell me as I have never done one before. If everything lines up I plan to fly up there and drive it all the way back (which will be a great way to get know it haha)

I can do 90% of the work myself and I am committed to spending time fixing anything. really only thing I'm worried about is rust (which hopefully the inspection should give me a proper idea of) and engine or transmission failure. If I buy this it will be with the intention of keeping it indefinitely.

Why do you suggest a 1HDT swap? I was originally interested in the 1HZ due to reliability
 
Trowter said:
Thnaks for the reply,

Unfortunately I am in Dunedin and the Cruiser :)I'm looking at is all the way in Auckland, I have booked an AA inspection for it but not sure on what that will really tell me as I have never done one before. If everything lines up I plan to fly up there and drive it all the way back (which will be a great way to get know it haha)

I can do 90% of the work myself and I am committed to spending time fixing anything. really only thing I'm worried about is rust (which hopefully the inspection should give me a proper idea of) and engine or transmission failure. If I buy this it will be with the intention of keeping it indefinitely.

Why do you suggest a 1HDT swap? I was originally interested in the 1HZ due to reliability
Click to expand...
Looks like a nice shakedown run - ~1400 km!
I would say to have on board a set of jumperleads, can of aerostart, 20l of diesel in case the fuel gauge doesn't work, basic toolkit (Pliers, metric sockets and spanners) and 5l of engine oil, ATF and a 90w gear oil for the diffs and you could put in the transfer if needed. Also, spare belts and hoses. If you can find a decent workshop, it might be worth the couple of hundred bucks to get engine oil and filter, fuel filter, air filter and fluid levels at least checked. I might be paranoid as I've never needed any of this stuff when doing new cruiser trips, but better to have and not need.

Sounds like you're well set up then, they're not hard trucks to work on and quite enjoyable to tinker with.

Re the 1HDT swap, this was a bit tongue-in-cheek - I'm sure plenty of people like their 1HZs and they are reliable, but personally, i think they're slow and thirsty, and in my (limited) experience, are hard to keep cool with a turbo. My thought process would be, look after the 1HZ as such, but go into this knowing that at 450,000 she's probably getting a bit tired and when rebuild time comes, 1HDT swap for a direct injection engine that is more efficient and will produce 200+ RWHP all day whilst keeping nice and cool.
 
Add an Intercooler and you'll be good to go as far as temps. go.
 
1HDT might be something to look into for sure, but fingers crossed I'll revive this thread one day when the clock rolls over hahahaha.

I have heard about people turboing at 1HZ but not really something i'm interested in at this stage, looking for pure reliability

Great idea on taking a toolkit -- hadn't really thought that far yet. Planning to sleep in back at this stage :)
 
Gun Runner 5 said:
Add an Intercooler and you'll be good to go as far as temps. go.
Click to expand...
It seems to help but I had coolant temp problems as well, but only whilst working the truck hard
 
I added an A/W Intercooler to a 1HZ and the difference was dramatic. Obviously the rest of the engine's cooling system has to be performing properly also.
 
Not to discourage you, but I bought a 77 3 years ago, same kind of situation, site unseen, blah blah with 170k, and it ended up having a blown motor and pretty much everything else wrong with it you can think of, I've spent the better part of the last three years fixing it all. It now has a 1HDFT and is a sweet running rig, but that that took a lot of blood, sweat, and regrettably some tears, and LOTS of money. Point is the number km's means nothing its all about the history, which you really won't know until you own it, drive it, and uncover the gremlins. You may be the lucky one and find the one 30 year old landcruiser that has nothing wrong with it..., but that would be a naive approach. Other seasoned owners will tell you the same, owning one of these is a passion, they are not practical in any shape or form, those that say otherwise have not owned one or won't admit it, because their wives check their Mud posts. If you really want it, and it does not have any blaring red flags, get it as cheap as possible and budget or don;t get alarmed if you ended spending double on it. I can go on and on, but I have to get back to work, you get the point, and excuse the rushed grammar.
 
Loober said:
Not to discourage you, but I bought a 77 3 years ago, same kind of situation, site unseen, blah blah with 170k, and it ended up having a blown motor and pretty much everything else wrong with it you can think of, I've spent the better part of the last three years fixing it all. It now has a 1HDFT and is a sweet running rig, but that that took a lot of blood, sweat, and regrettably some tears, and LOTS of money. Point is the number km's means nothing its all about the history, which you really won't know until you own it, drive it, and uncover the gremlins. You may be the lucky one and find the one 30 year old landcruiser that has nothing wrong with it..., but that would be a naive approach. Other seasoned owners will tell you the same, owning one of these is a passion, they are not practical in any shape or form, those that say otherwise have not owned one or won't admit it, because their wives check their Mud posts. If you really want it, and it does not have any blaring red flags, get it as cheap as possible and budget or don;t get alarmed if you ended spending double on it. I can go on and on, but I have to get back to work, you get the point, and excuse the rushed grammar.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what worries me really...

I am definitely will to put in the work but the idea of getting a lemon and pouring thousands into it isn't ideal, I still want to be able to use it.

The one I'm looking is rather cheap (maybe just due to k's who knows) and you do usually get what you pay for...

Will have to wait and see what the inspection shows up
 
At 450000klms , most 1HZ's are nearing the end of their useful life. Sure some of them do 1 million klms, but these are engines that never cool down and are maintained religiously, usually as work or fleet vehicles.
Even if the compression test comes back ok, it could drop off in the next year or so and you will be up for a rebuild.
Im guessing its a Japanese import. The 7* series speedos are easy to change and this may have more than 450k.
The fuel injection pumps also die somewere between 300 and 400k, these are $2000+ if it needs extensive work.
Tread carefully. They come up for sale all the time, so it doesnt have to be this one.
But at the the end of the day its what you pay for it.
 
Lots of great advice in this thread.

I second replacing the 1HZ with a 1HDT when the time comes. They are both reliable motors, but direction injection is a significant upgrade. If you intend to work the vehicle at all, you'll be much happier with a 1HDT.
 
Here's my story.

My friend bought a BJ74 5 years ago, imported from Australia. He didn't have it for very long at, maybe a month and only local driving when it blew a water hose on the highway then the headgasket along with bending 2 pushrods, 2 valves and scoring a cylinder wall. Fast forward 4ish years later and I bought it and totally rebuilt the engine.
The engine overall for having 485,000K was still in pretty decent shape and probably would have went for who knows how long had the hose not blown. Rebuilding a diesel land cruiser engine was a little tougher here in the US, and more expensive than your typical Chevy 350, but not outrageous...and I basically replaced everything minus cam/crank. Radiator needed repair (could have been some of the issue as well) turbo, head everything, Injection Pump, Injectors.

Great advice from others about what you should carry. I would completely have ALL fluids drained/flushed/replaced if you get it BEFORE your trip home.
 
Just to update you guys pre-inspection report came back pretty bad. Inspection stated several issues
  • cooling system leaking
  • several oil leaks, including transfer case
  • play in most of the suspension / steering rack
  • 4WD not working properly
  • Heater core detached and leaking
  • A/C not working
  • Seatbelts won't return
  • Gears don't shift properly
  • Idles too high
  • etc etc I can keep going lol

All this after I called the guy and told him I will be flying to drive it back and he told me straight there's nothing at all wrong with it.

Although the compression test came back good... so there's that.

Thanks for all the advice guys I really appreciate it, you have proven the Cruiser community is awesome but sadly I will have to keep looking

tl;dr it's ****ed, don't buy a sight unseen vehicle
 
Thats a sure sign it was never looked after. Loving owners can keep them in mint condition with high klms. Something like that one may be ok for the home mechanic at the right price if its got a good body.
 
  • cooling system leaking
  • several oil leaks, including transfer case
  • play in most of the suspension / steering rack
  • 4WD not working properly
  • Heater core detached and leaking
  • A/C not working
  • Seatbelts won't return
  • Gears don't shift properly
  • Idles too high
  • etc etc I can keep going lol
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

By the time this particular vehicle made it to the U.S. the above issues would be abbreviated to read
ZERO RUST / NEAR MINT CONDITION. :)
 
You could use all that as bargaining power. IMHO if its not rusty and it has good compression, all else can be fixed given you get the right purchase price.
 
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