HZJ75 Series power steering

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Jun 20, 2009
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Location
Brisbane Australia
I have a 1991 HZJ75 ute that I have had since new. The steering over time has become a little heavy especially noticable at idle. I am guessing the the pump may have an issue but not sure. I am pretty mechanical minded and do all my own maintenance but have never worked on power steering of any kind and am a little out of my depth here. So I am after any suggestions as to what might cause this, any problems that normally occur with these and if any one has a scematic of the pump it would certainly be appreciated.

Regards,
Tinman:beer:
 
I have a 1991 HZJ75 ute that I have had since new. The steering over time has become a little heavy especially noticable at idle. I am guessing the the pump may have an issue but not sure. I am pretty mechanical minded and do all my own maintenance but have never worked on power steering of any kind and am a little out of my depth here. So I am after any suggestions as to what might cause this, any problems that normally occur with these and if any one has a scematic of the pump it would certainly be appreciated.

Regards,
Tinman:beer:

The 1st thing to do is get some power steering reconditioner and follow the directions. I dont normally bother with lotions and potions but this one can work by freeing up the glazing on the metal surface.

If that dont work its going to need a rebuild,although it might be possible to turn the pressure up. Ive never looked into that.

Rather than get a reconditioned exchange unit ,I would get the 1HZ P/S kit off ebay for $99 which inc the main shaft and have a go yourself or pay someone to use your parts.
Power Steering Pump Overhaul Kit suit Landcruiser 1HZ - eBay Other, Suspension, Steering, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 02-Apr-10 08:58:53 AEDST)
Its a real bargain as the shaft is near on a $100 on its own at the dealer.
The reconditioned units can be suspect and they wont put a new shaft in if they can get away with it.
The shaft gets a groove in it from where the seal rubs against it. The shops will usually try and machine the groove out.

You may find this useful for schematics;)

ToyoDIY.com
 
I ended up getting a seal kit for about $60auand put it in. This was a bit more respectable than the price of a reonditioned pump at $600. The shaft and pump rotors were fine. No more leaks and steering is as good as new so I guess the internal seals were leaking aswell. Hopefully all good for another 300 000 Klm.;)
 
I am having steering issues too with my 1994 KZJ77. It's super loose. All the tie rods are good. And I tried adjusting it, but still no good. The "play" appears to coming from directly inside the steering box. Any ideas where I could get a rebuild kit?
 
Been a while since I did the seals in the P/S pump and thats still working fine but I have had a few other issues and along the lines of Beauh's question. For a while now I have been feeling a tiny bit of movement in the steering. I checked out all the bushes, joints tie rod ends ok and drag links had a tiny bit of movement so I tightened them and they seemed ok. There still every now and then seemd to be slight movement. I have held off doing too much until I replaced the tyres a few weeks ago. This led to more problems.

Firstly the spring bushes (leaf springs) were worne. I had already relaced the front ones before I put the tyres on but I had not done the rear because I new the rear springs needed resetting. They have needed doing for a long time 10years + but I dont carry heavey loads that often and the clearance on my garage was only 25mm. So now it does not fit in the garage anymore.

When I put the tyres on I they went to do the wheel alighment and what do you no there is movement in the rear. So I have had the rear spings done and put new bushes in. Wheel alighnment is all bad now. When this thing was new the wheel alighnment was never right I had it back to toyota several times but it was never brilliant. Depend who I spoke with back then some people recommended putting a caster kit in the swivel housing others said it didnot need it. So I never put one in. I think when I put heavier springs under the front after they saged many years ago it improved beacause the front lifted up which I am guessing altered the caster angle a bit 1-2 degree maybe??

Anyway I took it back the other day and had the wheel a lignment done wheer i had the tyres fitted and it did not help much. Was continuousley running off the road to the left. Not bad but anoying and not good on the front left tyre. It wears the outside edge.

The guy that did the alighnment was not happy with it but told me that it was all to spec and there was nothing he could do. He did say that the caster angle was 0 degree but he had no way of adjusting this short of putting a caster kit in the swivel housing.

So anyway did a bit of gooogling the other day on what the caster would affect and read about caster shims/wedges. So apparently too little caster will cause bump steering or in other words it will follow the angle of the road. This morning I put a set of 3 degree shims in. A lot simpler than fitting the ecentric bearing type kit into the swivel housing. It seems to have made a difference so I will see how it goes over a few days on different roads and then take it back and have the alighnmnent checked again. Hope fully that issue is sorted.

While I was doing this I also had a thorough check of the steering joints again looking for the movement. I ended up taking of the steering damper and this allowd me to feel the movement which I first thought was the drag link on the pitman arm. I poped the drag link out and the movement is actually in the steering box. When the steering is centered the movement is minimal but the more it is turned one way or the other the greater the movement. I am guessing here the it is wear in the steering box but any help full info would be apreciated here.
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Srearing

Hi Timan,
Your stearing pump. You did the right thing. the sharft does wear but it doesnt seem to let them leak. The vanes are usurly worn out at that KM, you were lucky. The bigest problem for heavey stearing on the 75 is s*** in the pressure relif valve. You can pull them out with the pump in the car, wash them, gently blow them out and reinstall and 9 out of 10 it fixes them. The other thing is the stearing damder part sized. Your play in the stearing box. The way you describe yours loose on both sides and tight in the middle is right. 3mm max in the stearing wheel in the center[ straight ahead]. :cheers:
 
Thanks Ian,
How is that old truck of yours going? Have you done much to it?


Where and how do you take that measurment. The movement is not much. As I said it was not until I took the steering damper off that I could even find where it was moving. Most of the time you would not even know it is there, just every now and again going over a bump usually slowly like a speed bump you will feel it through the steering.
 
Stearing

Hi Timan,
You messure the play in the stearing on the stearing wheel at the top,3mm is ok 5mm or more is to much. Have you tried ajusting the box? The nock, is it their when [ with the engine running] stand on the brakes and swing the wheel 200mm left & right? If it is its proubly the drag link rolling. The ajustable end will be worn under the rubbers. If that is ok look at the bottom bearing and uni in the stearing colm where it comes through the fire wall under the power booster. Check the sharft for up and down movment 1mm and the uni. Next the uni & slip youke at the stearing box end. The slip yoke is under the plastic cover. It should have no play. They quite often size up and when you go over a bump it transfures through the stearing colm. :cheers:
Havent done much on the 25, still collecting bits for it. I also ccollected a HJ47 Norforce troopie.
 

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