hzj75 rear drum brakes over adjusting (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rigsorted
- Start date
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if I had to guess, your bellcrank does not have enough slack and is “over catching” the star wheel every time you pull the ebrake. You have to “tighten” the small M6 size bolt/screw that is on the inside of the back plate of the drum to give it more slack. Toyota says 0.4-0.8mm of slack, but I give it an extra 1-2mm of additional slack and ensure the star wheel is decently positioned before putting the drum back on.
I recommend checking the self adjusting cable inside the drum brake mechanism between the two shoes at the bottom before you adjust. there’s an aluminum cam in there, and the cable has rubber/metal washers permanently affixed to it to hold the cam in place that can deteriorate and cause the whole self adjusting mechanism to not work and allow the cam to grind against the hub.
I recommend checking the self adjusting cable inside the drum brake mechanism between the two shoes at the bottom before you adjust. there’s an aluminum cam in there, and the cable has rubber/metal washers permanently affixed to it to hold the cam in place that can deteriorate and cause the whole self adjusting mechanism to not work and allow the cam to grind against the hub.
- Thread starter
- #3
thanks ill go check have a check now i got the RH drum off as we speak...
it seams weird tho as i haven't changed the setting of the bell crank when i replaced shoes ,slaves and springs a month ago .
it was was working fine up until then , brakes worked ,e brake worked , funny considering that there was no pad left ,there was a major fluid leak and the cable pin on the bell crank was rusted in..
bell crank was pulled apart and cleaned installed with new boots..
the only things that i haven't replaced was the auto adjusters and the cable between the shoes .. i have new ones now to put in now tho....
any way ill go have a look and ill get back to you in a bit... thanks again
it seams weird tho as i haven't changed the setting of the bell crank when i replaced shoes ,slaves and springs a month ago .
it was was working fine up until then , brakes worked ,e brake worked , funny considering that there was no pad left ,there was a major fluid leak and the cable pin on the bell crank was rusted in..
bell crank was pulled apart and cleaned installed with new boots..
the only things that i haven't replaced was the auto adjusters and the cable between the shoes .. i have new ones now to put in now tho....
any way ill go have a look and ill get back to you in a bit... thanks again
Photo of a jacked up self adjusting cam/cable for reference.
- Thread starter
- #5
Ok so the adjustment of the bell crank has between 0.6 -1.0mm gap on gap ( C ) as per diagram you sent thru ..
the adjustment leaver is sitting a little lower then on the star wheel then in the photo above..
the cam is still sitting correctly ,not like in the photo above..
ill try and up load some photos if i can get this computer to behave ......
the adjustment leaver is sitting a little lower then on the star wheel then in the photo above..
the cam is still sitting correctly ,not like in the photo above..
ill try and up load some photos if i can get this computer to behave ......
- Thread starter
- #6
So I've bitten the bullet and decided to replace the adjuster and the cable between the shoes ..
This means that every part inside the drum has been replaced ...
I've backed off the M6 bolt on the bell crank giving it an extra 1mm of free play so about 1.6mm-2.0mm now..
Ill get the other side done and ill let you know how it went ....
Fingers crossed......
This means that every part inside the drum has been replaced ...
I've backed off the M6 bolt on the bell crank giving it an extra 1mm of free play so about 1.6mm-2.0mm now..
Ill get the other side done and ill let you know how it went ....
Fingers crossed......
