Hydro boost brake conversion

[jjdeneen918]

GM master cylinder has 2 ports.
9/16 x18 and 1/2 x 20.
Anyone have any advise or knowledge on an adapter/reducer that converts the above sizes to Toyota M10x1.0?

 

[cme4lyt]

GM master cylinder has 2 ports.
9/16 x18 and 1/2 x 20.
Anyone have any advise or knowledge on an adapter/reducer that converts the above sizes to Toyota M10x1.0?View attachment 2284455

When I did mine, I took the Toyota metric fittings off since I had to run new lines into the prop valve. I don’t think there is an adapter; I think you need to cut off the old and flare in a new matching set for the GM master.

Great to see another Hydroboost thread....

 

[cme4lyt]

I FINALLY got my parts yesterday from Power Brake Service. I’m going to assume the COVID caused the delay in getting my parts to me.

@baldilocks I see there is a feed or bleed-off line From the hydro booster. It allows hydraulic fluid to return to the reservoir.

there was hose & a T-fitting provided. Can you explain or post a pic of where you spliced that into your low pressure lines?

Also, did you delete the return line for the LSPV line, going back to the MC?

@NLXTACY of my low pressure lines that are provided by you with the push lock fittings & Continental hose. Do you stock push lock T-fittings, so I can keep everything consistent?
Or a link to where I could source that fitting?

I’m also going to need to source adapter fittings to tie in the Toyota brake lines into the GM master cylinder. Female metric side to male GM side. If not, I’ll have to cut Toyota line flares, put on GM fitting & re-flare. I only have the ability to do a single, not double flare, but I think that should still work?

Waiting to hear from Power Brake Service for an adapter fitting, for the banjo fitting, to attach HP hose to the power steering pump.

I’m looking forward to start installing tomorrow afternoon.


View attachment 2284081View attachment 2284082View attachment 2284083View attachment 2284084

The 90 coming into the T fitting is the return line from the hydroboost unit. The top of the T gets the return line coming out of the steering box and returns into the PS reservoir.

Happy to talk you through if you need ?

 

[cme4lyt]

Mine completed yesterday,,,

 

[jjdeneen918]

So I found these trick little adapters online today.

After putting in my shipping info, I found these tiny parts, that probably only weigh a few grams, would cost about double for their shipping prices!

I decided I would find a different option. That shipping price is ridiculous. Small flat-rate USPS box is only $5. Even cheaper with an envelope.

I found some 3/16” brake lines with the correct reducer fitting for the master cylinder. I only bought the brake line for the reducer fitting. $7.00 for both lines & fittings.

3/16” OD brake line & Toyota 4.75mm OD
brake lines are only 7-thousandths of a difference.

I’m going to cut my Toyota lines, insert the SAE reducer fitting onto them.
Re-flare my Toyota line & install into the master cylinder.

I’m thinking this should work. Unless someone else has a compelling argument against it, or a simpler & cost effective option.

Master cylinder with the reducer fittings installed. Actual brake lines will not be used.

 

[NLXTACY]

I think I may need to start making some fittings

 

[cme4lyt]

So I found these trick little adapters online today.

View attachment 2284770

After putting in my shipping info, I found these tiny parts, that probably only weigh a few grams, would cost about double for their shipping prices!


View attachment 2284775

I decided I would find a different option. That shipping price is ridiculous. Small flat-rate USPS box is only $5. Even cheaper with an envelope.

I found some 3/16” brake lines with the correct reducer fitting for the master cylinder. I only bought the brake line for the reducer fitting. $7.00 for both lines & fittings.

3/16” OD brake line & Toyota 4.75mm OD
brake lines are only 7-thousandths of a difference.

I’m going to cut my Toyota lines, insert the SAE reducer fitting onto them.
Re-flare my Toyota line & install into the master cylinder.

I’m thinking this should work. Unless someone else has a compelling argument against it, or a simpler & cost effective option.

Master cylinder with the reducer fittings installed. Actual brake lines will not be used.

View attachment 2284795

FYI, my only leak was where I tried to join new line into existing line. New copper/nickel line is so easy to double flare vs the old steel Toyota line. I could not get a decent flare on the old line for anything.

I finally ended up replacing my front lines all the way back to the calipers and I will be doing the rear line, because the new lines look so freaking cool, sometime soon.

 

[baldilocks]

GM master cylinder has 2 ports.
9/16 x18 and 1/2 x 20.
Anyone have any advise or knowledge on an adapter/reducer that converts the above sizes to Toyota M10x1.0?View attachment 2284455

What’s the bore diameter on the MC you chose?

 

[jjdeneen918]

What’s the bore diameter on the MC you chose?

1 1/8”

 

[jjdeneen918]

Made progress today.

Installed hydraulic brake booster.
Installed master cylinder.
Connected all my brake lines.
Deleted the LSPV in the rear.

I’m planning on bleeding brakes Monday & installing the hydraulic lines once I receive the adapter fittings for the pump & box.

 

[jjdeneen918]

 

[cme4lyt]

View attachment 2285850

Wow, very tidy, looks like great progress !

 

[jjdeneen918]

Wow, very tidy, looks like great progress !

I’m not excited about the route, length, & amount of connections to make the front reservoir complete.

My theory at first was to connect everything without having to cut & reflare any tubing.

I was successful doing with union fittings & existing & purchased lengths of tubing.

I’m thinking of making the front reservoir line again with just one piece of tubing. Less distance & less connections (possible failure points).

 

[cme4lyt]

Yes, totally agree. If it was me, and yes I suffer from a bout of OCD occasionally, I would redo and shorten since those are possible failure points.

 

[baldilocks]

Retaining ABS definitely complicates matters. I agree with a clean look but once those fittings are sealed there is a very small chance of a leak down the road.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Retaining ABS definitely complicates matters. I agree with a clean look but once those fittings are sealed there is a very small chance of a leak down the road.

Yeah, I’m going to give my ABS a chance before I decide to get rid of it. We will see

I’ve deleted the LSPV at the rear already.

I wasn’t happy with the amount of connections between the MC & ABS module.

Today I sourced metric 4.7mm brake line, new M10x1.0 fittings, rented a metric inverted flare tool.

Tomorrow I’m going to replace the MC to ABS module brake lines. I should have a cleaner & less complicated install of lines.

Today I did make a bracket of the Wilwood proportioning valve. Just a simple aluminum sheet metal bracket. I secured it the the bolt directly to the backside of the ABS module.
I used my vice as a sheet bender & secured the valve to the bracket with some 1/4-20 bolts.

A little paint & a pretty simple little bracket.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Yesterday I completed running all my brake lines neatly & bled the brakes.

I also received the high pressure connection fittings for the custom hoses going to the steering box & pump.

iwas expecting 2 fittings, but I received several (besides the obvious 90 degree fittings for routing purposes).

I’ll find out tomorrow which ones fit (fingers crossed), and should be able to road test my beast.

 

[jjdeneen918]

I got my system up & running yesterday.

I snapped a 90-degree AN fitting from the WE after market cooler.
I replaced the fittings with brass barbed fittings today.

I filled the reservoir with fluid. Lifted the front end & cycled/bled the system.

I drove the system aound a bit & it was working very poorly.

The system is HOT! I can’t remove the reservoir cap without burning myself. I cant hold my hand on the cooling fins without burning myself. I can’t hold my hand to the booster without burning my hand.

When driving & turning the wheel, it jumps around. The steering wheel seems to gain & loose power while turning the wheel. Very strange.

It’s all very strange.

I probably won’t have time until next weekend to dive into it & start trouble shooting.

if anyone has any pointers or things you could think of, I hope it would help me tackle this issue, please let me know.

 

[jjdeneen918]

I should be diving back into this tomorrow to hopefully figure out what needs to be done to get this thing working properly. And finally back on the road.

@baldilocks can you confirm a few things. Or anyone with install experience with this set up?

My booster is in the upside-down orientation. The hoses connect on the bottom side.

1. The left (passenger-side hose). Is yours running to the pump or box?

2. The right side hose (drivers-side). Is yours running to the box or the pump?

3. I have the booster return line connected with a T-fitting. The in-line part of the T-fitting is run into the hose between the after market cooler & reservoir. The booster return line is T’ed into that fitting.

4. Does my operating temp seem normal? I don’t have a touch-less digital thermometer, but I find it odd to be so hot that I can’t hold a hand to any of the booster components. IE- booster, reservoir, cooler, etc.

Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated. I’m hoping to get this completed tomorrow.

-Jeff

 

[baldilocks]

I should be diving back into this tomorrow to hopefully figure out what needs to be done to get this thing working properly. And finally back on the road.

@baldilocks can you confirm a few things. Or anyone with install experience with this set up?

My booster is in the upside-down orientation. The hoses connect on the bottom side.

1. The left (passenger-side hose). Is yours running to the pump or box?

2. The right side hose (drivers-side). Is yours running to the box or the pump?

3. I have the booster return line connected with a T-fitting. The in-line part of the T-fitting is run into the hose between the after market cooler & reservoir. The booster return line is T’ed into that fitting.

4. Does my operating temp seem normal? I don’t have a touch-less digital thermometer, but I find it odd to be so hot that I can’t hold a hand to any of the booster components. IE- booster, reservoir, cooler, etc.

Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated. I’m hoping to get this completed tomorrow.

-Jeff

In the upside down configuration the hoses should route from the pump to the driver side of the booster and from the passenger side booster port to the steering gear box. Your booster return hose it tee’d in properly.

There is definitely a problem because the system should not get that hot.