howling sound

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C

cayeb

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Dec 1, 2006
Threads
32
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117
Hi Guys,

I just wanted to know how to trouble shoot this sound. I'm hearing a howling sound in front of 85 LJ70 when driving. I'm thinking of my wheel bearing but before I tackle this problem I wanted to find from the group if anyone had experienced this may be can get i a tip beforeI start working on it. If it's the wheel bearing anyone know's the part number for it?
 
If it is a front wheel bearing then you should be able to feel movement when the wheel is grasped at 12 and 6 oclock.
Also while its off the ground turn it slowly by hand. A bad bearing can groan as it comes to a standstill;)
It would also make more noise around corners.

The front diff in my 73 series make noises when the hubs are locked in.
Look for uneven tyre wear,it maybe a camber or toe in problem
 
roscoFJ73 said:
If it is a front wheel bearing then you should be able to feel movement when the wheel is grasped at 12 and 6 oclock.
Also while its off the ground turn it slowly by hand. A bad bearing can groan as it comes to a standstill;)
It would also make more noise around corners.

The front diff in my 73 series make noises when the hubs are locked in.
Look for uneven tyre wear,it maybe a camber or toe in problem
Click to expand...

X2.

This would be my first check also..

You will never know until you do something as simple as lifting the cruiser off the ground and relieving the stress on the bearings and seeing what play or noise they have.

This also works for most vehicles too.

A constant roaring noise that fluctuates (sp) as the RPMs go uo and down is a bearing somewhere most of the time.

Check the simple stupid first!

HTH,

Randy
 
I did try to checked the front wheel today off ground & I found movement as I grasped at 12 & 6 o clock. Any thing I need to know before I start the work. This is my first time to do this so I need all the advise I can get.
Thanks in advance
 
cayeb said:
I did try to checked the front wheel today off ground & I found movement as I grasped at 12 & 6 o clock. Any thing I need to know before I start the work. This is my first time to do this so I need all the advise I can get.
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Okay, this could mean that the wheelbearings are gone. But before you disassembel stuff, make sure the play you found IS in the WHEEL-bearings.
There is a possibility there is some play in the 'kingpin' bearings, the bearings that enable your knuckle to pivot.
By just grabbing the wheel in the 12 and 6 o'clock position you will feel the play ( if present) from wheel- and or 'kingpin' bearing.

To check make sombody to press and hold the brakes.
Feel again for play. Still present? 90% it's the kingpin.
If not present anymore 90% it's the wheelbearing.

Have fun,
 
Ron,

Thanks for that info, I'll try that as soon as the weather gets a little better & able to work outside. It's temperature here is been -13 degress
 
I've started working on the wheel bearing today but I'm having a hard time removing the free wheel hub body. The cone washers were so tight. I've tried soaking them with wd40 & heating the washers but unsuccessful. Any ideas how to loosen them?
 
cayeb said:
I've started working on the wheel bearing today but I'm having a hard time removing the free wheel hub body. The cone washers were so tight. I've tried soaking them with wd40 & heating the washers but unsuccessful. Any ideas how to loosen them?
Click to expand...

Yes, it sounds harsh (and it is) but the only way to loosen them is to put a (brass) drift on top of the stud and smack it with a hammer. :grinpimp:

The way I do it is to put an 'open' nut on the stud untill the upper side of the nut is flush with the top of the stud.
Set a drift on top, align it carefully with the stud and then smack it with short, ferm hits.
After some hits there will be a small, hardly viewable 'crack' on the edge of the conewasher and the hub body. Then the cone washer has loosened but further hitting won't create more clearence. Pry with a screwdriver, tap against the side of the cone, heat it, soak it (as you allready did), in other words: just find a way to get it of.
Once the cone washer has cracked and you really can't get it of, you can try to remove the stud. Put two nuts on, lock them against each other and carefully try to unscrew it. To be honest - I've broken several studs - but this is a kind of last resort if you can't get the washer of.
Do not try this before the washer has 'cracked'. The stud will break leaving everything in place.
And ehhh, when putting everything together again, use (water resistent) grease on studs, washers, hub body so it won't rust so much. Nevertheless next time it again will be a PITA.:cheers:
 
Ron,

Thanks for the advise, I tried doing what you've said but even with the cracked noted I was unsuccessful. I tried soaking & heating. I tapped & tapped even stripping the edges of the cone but it's damn tight. I'm ready to go to a mechanic so I put them all back today. I tried driving the truck again just to properly diagnose the problem. there is a sound more noteceable when driving slow. There's a slight play when you grab @ 6 & 12 o clock when. I tried turning the wheel while it's off ground but I don't hear anything.
 
Ron R is right, [ is that what the other R is for] cheers Ron. They get stuck on older trucks I use a piece of 3x2 pine against the hub and give it a good wack with a 2lb Club [mash] hammer LOL let it know who's boss. Your mechanic will do the same when you are not looking. Cheers mate and stick it to her.
 
cayeb said:
Ron,

Thanks for the advise, I tried doing what you've said but even with the cracked noted I was unsuccessful. I tried soaking & heating. I tapped & tapped even stripping the edges of the cone but it's damn tight.
Click to expand...
Sorry you were unsuccesfull.
It's hard to get them off every time. I've damaged several studs and cone-washers. And they're expensive to replace (I only can get Toyo parts for this).

I'm ready to go to a mechanic so I put them all back today.
Click to expand...
Hope he's a bit friendly writing his bills. It will take him time as well. Experience is hardly in play here. Being lucky is more handy in this case.

I tried driving the truck again just to properly diagnose the problem. there is a sound more noteceable when driving slow.
Click to expand...
It's allways hard to diagnose.

There's a slight play when you grab @ 6 & 12 o clock when. I tried turning the wheel while it's off ground but I don't hear anything.
Click to expand...
That play you can also feel with the brakes applied? And in the 3-9 o'clock position? (talking just about the front wheels here!)
If not in the 3-9 position It generally is not the wheel bearing(s), but because you say you can hear a sound during driving .....there is a good chance it's the wheelbearing.
Turning the wheel off the ground you'll almost never hear a sound unless the bearing(s) is badly damaged.
This because, when the wheel is supporting the truck with the wheel on the ground, the points where the bearing is loaded differ significantly from when the wheel is unsupported, thus 'hanging' from the truck.
So when the wheel is hanging, good chance undamaged area off the wheelbearing-surface is now used and therefore there often is no noticable sound

succes!!!
 
Honestly i'm hesistant to bring it to the mechanic because as you said experience hardly play on this type of job he may do more damaged. I guess my patience is really tested here. I'll try my luck again when weather is favorable (we're expecting a snow storm tonight).
 
Just an update on my problem. I finally went to a mechanic where my cousin work. My cousin help out with the cone washer removal, we heat it up & hammer it & there the washers come off. The only difference with what my cousin/mechanic did is the way I hammer it. I was so careful with my hammering & not giving enough blow for the washer to come out.(i'm just afraid I'll wreck it.) We didn't managed to removed the bearing because I don't have any replacement part. I went there only for the cone washers to be removed & do the work my self. We tighten the wheel bearing but I guess the bearing is really worn out because I can still hear the sound when i drive it.

Now I need to know the part number for the front wheel bearing for my 85 LJ70. Is the BJ70 front wheel bearing compatible? I'm in Canada & for those canucks here in the forum do you know where to get them?
 
cayeb said:
Just an update on my problem. I finally went to a mechanic where my cousin work. My cousin help out with the cone washer removal, we heat it up & hammer it & there the washers come off. The only difference with what my cousin/mechanic did is the way I hammer it. I was so careful with my hammering & not giving enough blow for the washer to come out.(i'm just afraid I'll wreck it.) We didn't managed to removed the bearing because I don't have any replacement part. I went there only for the cone washers to be removed & do the work my self. We tighten the wheel bearing but I guess the bearing is really worn out because I can still hear the sound when i drive it.
Click to expand...

So I should have said: 'Smack it as hard as you dare and then even harder'
Well now you know how to go next time:cheers:

Now I need to know the part number for the front wheel bearing for my 85 LJ70. Is the BJ70 front wheel bearing compatible? I'm in Canada & for those canucks here in the forum do you know where to get them?
Click to expand...

My EPC says:

90311-62001, Seal oil, for front axle hub
90368-45087, Bearing, Tapered roller (for front axle outer bearing)
90368-49084, Bearing, Tapered roller (for front axle inner bearing)
90125-42025, Washer, Front wheel adjusting lock)

All for production date 8411 - 9001 and models RJ7#,LJ7# and BJ7#

But mind: mine is a european version. Don't know or this is fully compatable to yours! So be carefull.

I added the oil seal and locking washer. I think it's wise to renew them as well. Y'll hardly be able to replace the bearing without damaging the oil seal and the washer is essential for locking the nuts.

Have fun
 
Ron R,

Thanks again, I took those part number to Toyota Dealership & they can get them for me but pricey. (By the way my 85 LJ70 came from France). I found an aftermarket bearings for half the price that dealer are charging. So I'm debating weather I go with OEM or aftermarket. What do you think.
 
cayeb said:
Ron R,

Thanks again, I took those part number to Toyota Dealership & they can get them for me but pricey. (By the way my 85 LJ70 came from France). I found an aftermarket bearings for half the price that dealer are charging. So I'm debating weather I go with OEM or aftermarket. What do you think.
Click to expand...

If the bearings are of reputable quality go aftermarket. I needed 5 sets of them preparing the rig for a major trip and saved about half the money and bought probably better quality.
Because I was not quite sure about your partnumbers:
If you can afford the time, just get the old stuff off and take them to the shop, making sure you get the right ones.
The oil seal and lockwasher buy at the dealers. These oil seals tend to be of a special kind and are often hard to find. Getting them out will often damage them that way you can't say for sure what sizes they have. I found they are not extremely expensive.

Another hint. Here in Europe we can buy repair kits (aftermarket). In there is everything you need (seals gaskets for the hub etc). I suppose you can get this as well where you are.

BTW: did you ask the mechanic, you went to to get the hub off, about the noise. What did he say. Is it the bearing to his opinion? Cross-check if you can. Can save you money. We are talking about replacing bearings involving quite some money. Is that realy necessery?


Have fun
 
Last edited:
Ron R,

The mechanic said it's the bearing. He didn't removed the hub anymore because I didn't have the parts & he doesn't want the truck to stay inside the garage because they're busy. I will try to get another opinion because it's not cheap to replace this parts. I hope the part # you've given me will fit my LJ70. There's alot of BJ70 here in Canada & if they are compatible with the LJ70 then I can get the parts. Otherwise I need to removed the bearing first & show it to the part store.
 
Well good, now you're pretty sure it's the bearing(s) If you can get a second opinion that's even better.

The partnumbers I gave are for the RJ7#, the LJ7# and BJ7#, so yes, if the numbers I gave you are right for the LJ7#, they're right for the BJ7 as well.
The only difference might be that what I gave is for european series. To my knowledge they don't differ from American/Canadian rigs, and since you said your's originated from France, the partnumbers should be correct.
I don't know how it's in Canada, but if I want to buy aftermarket the Toyota partnumbers are of no use at all. Then you have to find the equivalent by measuring the actual bearing or ordering a repair-kit for that particular type of vehicle.
Good luck
 
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