How to service/check a PZ1 & HZ1

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Joined
Jan 27, 2010
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156
Location
Fairbanks AK
Howdy folks...:hillbilly:

i have a PZ1 and an HZ1. The PZ1 in in my PZJ75 that I turned into my snowplow truck. It runs nice and over-all I am pretty satified with it. come summer time I would like to service it, and check it out to see if it can be tuned up to run better. I dont have much support here in Alaska concerning toyota Diesels ( I probably own the only two around)

What do I need to check, tune etc to make these engines run as smooth as possible?

any help is appreciated! thanks
 
hmmm .. no responses...I will add some more then

... For example.

i figured I should check the valves and get he injectors cleaned and checked. Not sure any local diesel mechanics have ever worked on a Toy diesel though...
:hhmm:
 
Valves adjustment
Injectors (you'll check your timing when installing it again)
Pump
All your filters
check glow plugs

Really if your truck isn't idling high you could probably avoid rebuilding the pump as its costly.
As for the injectors nozzles are cheap ($25) and should be a little more to rebuild them.
You would have a lot of support from shops in Canada who see mine truck servicing.
lsobie knows a spot for cheap pumps in canada. I am sure they have exchange injectors.
 
Howdy folks...:hillbilly:

i have a PZ1 and an HZ1. The PZ1 in in my PZJ75 that I turned into my snowplow truck. It runs nice and over-all I am pretty satified with it. come summer time I would like to service it, and check it out to see if it can be tuned up to run better. I dont have much support here in Alaska concerning toyota Diesels ( I probably own the only two around)

What do I need to check, tune etc to make these engines run as smooth as possible?

any help is appreciated! thanks

These engines are called the 1PZ and 1HZ
Apart from injectors,filters,oil changes,the only other thing to do is the timing belt which has a 100000klm service interval.
Buy a complete kit containing the belt,the idler,tensioning spring and cam shaft seal.
There is a small mesh filter under the banjo bolt that joins the fuel inlet to the pump,they often fill up with crud.
The fuel pick up in the tank also has a gauze filter wrapped around it and has been known to get covered in crud also.
There is not really much you can do to get more power except add a straight through exhaust and headers and turn the fuel up about an 8th of a turn.You might get 6-7 hp.

There is a diesel forum on MUD that is especially for Toyota diesels:D
 
Thanks

Thanks for the advice. Yeah, I guess I knew the engine names were 1HZ and 1PZ, I just got it backwards. All fluids and filters have been changed. I was planning on having the injectors tested and replaced as nessesary this summer. My glow-plugs seem to be working fine.
 
to make a PZ or HZ come alive then slap a turbo on it ...

of course the above advice is very relevant...
 
roscoFJ73 said:
Im running the original glow plugs that are nearly 17 years old.

Yes because yours probably aren't used in cold north American winters
 
glow plugs come on with the initial start no matter what the temp is.
the duration changes with the temp.
any time the engine is below operating temp then the glow works, so unless the engine coolant is sitting at 88C, the glow comes on.
yes, he lives in a warm climate but not that warm.

AlaskaFJ, hook up with ... s***, what is his name? ... ColdTaco?? in alaska, he is pretty handy guy from what i have heard.
a manual glow is the only way to go when living in the extreme cold. proper glow plugs, manual glow and 0/30 artic oil and a strong healthy battery and you should have no issues at all.
 
Yes because yours probably aren't used in cold north American winters
No,your right ,Im not even in north america:D
In addition to what Wayne stated,they still have to withstand a couple of thousand psi every time the cylinder combusts.
When they are working right,the light on the dash goes off after about 3 seconds in the depths of winter here(5c to 10c in the morning:D),in summer the light is on for a second.
My glow timer stopped working,so an auto electrican gave me a slightly fawked one for free that works the secondary glow circuit only,so now it takes 5 seconds in winter and 3 in summer but no light on the dash.
 
with service, pay extra for the factory belts, they are made as a matched pair and run true, i have seen a lot of aftermarket belts flog out and break as they are not matched.

as for inj and pump, we normally drive them until they start blowing lots of black smoke, so up to you if u want to service them or not.
normal oils, filters ect they do not need much, also check wheel bearings and swivel hubs, they do not need much
 
YUP,
Thanks yall. All good advice. My truck is a used up mine truck (obviously). I dont need mych help/advice on the drive train as it aint much different from all hte other cruisers I own (except the 1PZ fly wheel I guess)

i have already drained and replaced all the drive train oils, I completely rebuilt the knuckles (I need new axles I guess, when I get to it) The thrid members are loose but still turning. the tie rod ends broke but they are tied back into place with nylon ganyon until my new ones arrive.

I use a solinoid to activate hte glow plugs, I hold it down until the engine idles smooth. Right now it is -30F and I just got back to town and found 5 inches of snow I need to plow. Hopefully I can get it started.

Thanks again
 

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