you are OBDII then
How to replace crankshaft seal and oil pump gasket in an auto. My days work with pics
- Thread starter crooozer
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- #22
Thanks mate.
I just went out rechecked my crank bolt just in case it loosened, or to double check it's on as tight as it can go because I don't have the torque wrench. Thing is, even IF I had the torque wrench, It's on that tight that I couldn't get it any tighter!
Picture me lying sideways under the truck, with both feet pressed against the passenger seat front tyre, and the other end of me in the air literally hanging off the crank bolt. That's how tight it is
and it just won't go any tighter. I can't fit the cheater bar I have on my breaker because theres a rubber handle on the end of it. I think 450mm long bar is good.
I got a tiny bit worried when I noticed a bit of crank seal visible from dead under the crank just now..! I'ts just the lip though and I'm pretty sure it's normal, wouldn't mind making sure others can see theirs too though cause I'm that kind of bloke, I tend to sit there all day and worry about nothing. but keep in mind it will be hard to spot because yours will be dirty and covered with grease so will blend right in. My photos don't show it because of the slight angle I missed.
It was seated exactly like the original though and the lip I mean was the lip I first tried to grab and pull with plyers but the things in there so damn good that you cant just do that You can see the lip I'm talking about in my 5th (I think?) pic. you will need a torch. Heres mine. And I can actually see it much easier in real life, the pic doesn't show it up much. I'm guessing it's just like that because if the metal from the balancer contacts the engine, then it will wear something out, metal to metal aint' good. Please note, the oil drips are leftover from degreaser.
I just went out rechecked my crank bolt just in case it loosened, or to double check it's on as tight as it can go because I don't have the torque wrench. Thing is, even IF I had the torque wrench, It's on that tight that I couldn't get it any tighter!
Picture me lying sideways under the truck, with both feet pressed against the passenger seat front tyre, and the other end of me in the air literally hanging off the crank bolt. That's how tight it is
and it just won't go any tighter. I can't fit the cheater bar I have on my breaker because theres a rubber handle on the end of it. I think 450mm long bar is good.I got a tiny bit worried when I noticed a bit of crank seal visible from dead under the crank just now..! I'ts just the lip though and I'm pretty sure it's normal, wouldn't mind making sure others can see theirs too though cause I'm that kind of bloke, I tend to sit there all day and worry about nothing. but keep in mind it will be hard to spot because yours will be dirty and covered with grease so will blend right in. My photos don't show it because of the slight angle I missed.
It was seated exactly like the original though and the lip I mean was the lip I first tried to grab and pull with plyers but the things in there so damn good that you cant just do that You can see the lip I'm talking about in my 5th (I think?) pic. you will need a torch. Heres mine. And I can actually see it much easier in real life, the pic doesn't show it up much. I'm guessing it's just like that because if the metal from the balancer contacts the engine, then it will wear something out, metal to metal aint' good. Please note, the oil drips are leftover from degreaser.
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- Thread starter
- #23
G'day!
If by 'keyed' you mean the key on the crank itself (like the one in my pic) then yes, mine is keyed, so even a loose bolt would be fine.
If by 'keyed' you mean the key on the crank itself (like the one in my pic) then yes, mine is keyed, so even a loose bolt would be fine.
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- #24
UPDATE: I just removed the belts and crankshaft again to double check the little bit of seal showing is normal.
I couldn't undo my crank bolt so had to bump start it again and this time was in a rush and forgot to remove the EFI fuse.. Took the whole bolt out pretty darn quick let me tell you.. So my torquing is good if I can't even undo what I did up, I'm happy with that.
It seems that yes indeed that little bit of crank seal showing between the balancer and the engine must be normal because it does not push in anymore than this.
At least I'm getting quick at this because it only took me 1/2 an hour from start to finish this time around.
I couldn't undo my crank bolt so had to bump start it again and this time was in a rush and forgot to remove the EFI fuse.. Took the whole bolt out pretty darn quick let me tell you.. So my torquing is good if I can't even undo what I did up, I'm happy with that.
It seems that yes indeed that little bit of crank seal showing between the balancer and the engine must be normal because it does not push in anymore than this.
At least I'm getting quick at this because it only took me 1/2 an hour from start to finish this time around.
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- #25
UPDATE: After this mornings work (removing all belts and crankshaft again) I had a problem.. 
problem being a 'rattling' noise when accelerating, nothing when just cruising along. So I discovered the A/C pulley had a little freeplay, tighten it up, must've done the trick! No. loosened the drivebelts and noise seemingly gone after a good drive. I had around 5mm of play if I pushed the belts quite hard between the top two pulleys, thought this was the norm for drivebelt tension? Then loosened so there is around 8mm between the top two pulleys, these are about 17cm apart mind you and now the rattling noise is gone.
Whats going on here? Who knows.. maybe my belts WERE too tight? so to anyone considering doing this job, please measure your belt play before you waste a half day trying to get rid of noises.
problem being a 'rattling' noise when accelerating, nothing when just cruising along. So I discovered the A/C pulley had a little freeplay, tighten it up, must've done the trick! No. loosened the drivebelts and noise seemingly gone after a good drive. I had around 5mm of play if I pushed the belts quite hard between the top two pulleys, thought this was the norm for drivebelt tension? Then loosened so there is around 8mm between the top two pulleys, these are about 17cm apart mind you and now the rattling noise is gone. Whats going on here? Who knows.. maybe my belts WERE too tight? so to anyone considering doing this job, please measure your belt play before you waste a half day trying to get rid of noises.
ppc
M Go Blue
The style of belts you are using are making the noise, not necessarily the tension. There are many threads on this subject. If you buy OEM Toyota they come as a matched pair secured together. They are smooth on all side versus the Cog type you show in your photos. On yours the cog side go against the idler tensioner causing the noise.
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- #27
Hmmm, thanks for that.
I did notice that one was a bit longer than the other, how crappy is that!..
But since removing some tension the noise is totally gone (will monitor that) and the ones that were on it prior were the
same as I just installed yesterday, never heard anything like I did earlier today. I've heard many complain about a 'whining' noise, but none ever told of
the rattling noise, it honestly sounded like a rusty, loose bearing on one of the pulleys and could be heard quite clearly from inside the truck.
What is the 'idler tensioner'
is this the 12mm adjuster bolt on the alternator?
I did notice that one was a bit longer than the other, how crappy is that!..
But since removing some tension the noise is totally gone (will monitor that) and the ones that were on it prior were the
same as I just installed yesterday, never heard anything like I did earlier today. I've heard many complain about a 'whining' noise, but none ever told of
the rattling noise, it honestly sounded like a rusty, loose bearing on one of the pulleys and could be heard quite clearly from inside the truck.
What is the 'idler tensioner'
is this the 12mm adjuster bolt on the alternator?
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- Thread starter
- #29
Ha.. I've got it!!
The give-away was 'On yours the cog side go against the idler tensioner causing the noise.' I was looking at this pulley just yesterday from underneath the car wondering why it wasn't holding the pulley very well. BECAUSE I HAD IT ON THE OUTSIDE INSTEAD OF THE INSIDE!! I was looking for a way to adjust it but couldn't see any..
Thanks you! I will report back tomorrow
The give-away was 'On yours the cog side go against the idler tensioner causing the noise.' I was looking at this pulley just yesterday from underneath the car wondering why it wasn't holding the pulley very well. BECAUSE I HAD IT ON THE OUTSIDE INSTEAD OF THE INSIDE!! I was looking for a way to adjust it but couldn't see any..
Thanks you! I will report back tomorrow
The belts are supposed to ride on the outside of the drive belt idler pulley; IIRC it's main purpose to prevent the belts from slapping around too much, not to put any significant tension on them. Some mudders just remove it altogether.
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- Thread starter
- #31
tHANKS kernal, I just made up a new thread about this after trying to get the belt around this pulley. It cannot be done and thus will not rectify my noise.. 
I don't know what to try next.
Why did the other poster say that the ribbed side would sit against this? It doesn't.
I don't know what to try next.Why did the other poster say that the ribbed side would sit against this? It doesn't.
ppc
M Go Blue
The reason is I was describing it from memory and that isn't working as good as when I was younger. Next time I take a look before writing.
What I was trying to describe is the bottom of the "V" having the cog. I assumed that on your belts the cogs are on all sides as the other poster indicates we don't see that style of belts. I'd say 95%+ here are like your air conditioning belt.
Found a good way to get the seal out from the crank shaft. I used a paint can opener, one of those little metal jobbies you get from the paint store. Has the little rounded, hooked end. Perfect for getting ahold of the backside of the seal and pulling it out.
Of course I took my time sliding it out on all sides a little at at time but didn't have to leverage off of the shaft so no dings left in it.
Of course I took my time sliding it out on all sides a little at at time but didn't have to leverage off of the shaft so no dings left in it.
Hey guys,
I'm up to my pits on this job. Got the oil pump cover replaced and going after the crank seal now. I was super careful to rotate my pulley so mark is at 06:00 and "persuaded" the pulley off with about 20 taps of an 8 lbs mal. Being careful to catch and/or not loose the key, I get the damn thing off and I don't see a "loose" key per se, but the keyway on the pulley and the key that is on the shaft itself.
Is there nothing to really loose or fall off? am I good or do I need to hunt on the floor (or worse, behind the seal) for some small piece that I am missing. It looks like there is a bevel to the piece on the crank (pic crank1) so that something would "shoe box" together or something?
Paranoid....
I'm up to my pits on this job. Got the oil pump cover replaced and going after the crank seal now. I was super careful to rotate my pulley so mark is at 06:00 and "persuaded" the pulley off with about 20 taps of an 8 lbs mal. Being careful to catch and/or not loose the key, I get the damn thing off and I don't see a "loose" key per se, but the keyway on the pulley and the key that is on the shaft itself.
Is there nothing to really loose or fall off? am I good or do I need to hunt on the floor (or worse, behind the seal) for some small piece that I am missing. It looks like there is a bevel to the piece on the crank (pic crank1) so that something would "shoe box" together or something?
Paranoid....
the key is still in the crank nose.
just saw this thread, a quick note about the belts. dayco top cogs are available in the us. many heavy duty truck dealerships carry dayco brand. it's just not a wide automotive belt. the numbers under the part number are the production run numbers, so they are considered a matching set if those numbers match. without a belt stick to measure, just flexing with your hands, you won't be able to tell if they match or not.
just saw this thread, a quick note about the belts. dayco top cogs are available in the us. many heavy duty truck dealerships carry dayco brand. it's just not a wide automotive belt. the numbers under the part number are the production run numbers, so they are considered a matching set if those numbers match. without a belt stick to measure, just flexing with your hands, you won't be able to tell if they match or not.
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Thanks. I'll be running OEM belts but appreciate the help.
Kernal:
I didn't put too much more thought into it beyond what is posted in this discussion. I put the timing mark at the bottom 06:00 position. From there I tugged and pulled but nothing. I grabbed my small 8 lb sledge (hand mal) which I used to tap my phillips bit for the oil pump cover. Tapped the crank a few times and worked it out from the crank.
I didn't put too much more thought into it beyond what is posted in this discussion. I put the timing mark at the bottom 06:00 position. From there I tugged and pulled but nothing. I grabbed my small 8 lb sledge (hand mal) which I used to tap my phillips bit for the oil pump cover. Tapped the crank a few times and worked it out from the crank.
I was referring to when you put the crank pulley back on. By putting a white mark on the crank pulley before you try to slide it back on you can better line it up with the key. Someone else actually broke his crank pulley apparently by not lining everything up and then tightening down the large crank pulley bolt; the force actually popped a piece of the steel crank pulley right off. A new crank pulley is something like $350 IIRC.
