How to replace crankshaft seal and oil pump gasket in an auto. My days work with pics

[robertaleon]

Ah I see - I'll keep that in mind and make sure I've got that lined up accurately when reinstalling.

Thanks.

 

[robertaleon]

Everything is all buttoned up with no real surprised and a lot of learning with this job. I started last Wednesday evening after the kids went to bed and pecked at it over 4 nights. All in all I'd say I had 8 hours of work but only about 3.5 hrs of wrenching. The other 4.5 hours were spent cleaning all the P/S and engine oil off the engine, and replacing every lower hose I missed with the radiator swap. Some items from my job:

• Replaced the dizzy o-ring, crankshaft seal, and oil pump gasket with new Toyota screws, and all new belts. Mr. T belts are so much more quieter, sounds like a new truck
• I didn't remove the steering dampner and I personally had no problem working around it.
• Radiator remained inside the vehicle, just removed shroud and fan w/clutch
• Hammer and H/F PH#3 bit into clean screws is a great trick. Used 1/4" socket on 1/4" ratchet and came right off.
• When marking the base of the dizzy, remember to use a cold chisel to nick to reference marks on dizzy and block because the brake cleaner is going to remove your marks - queue "Ignition Timing of the FSM"
• I tried the chain method for breaking the crankshaft bolt but tweaked 3 grade 8 bolts, ended up using the torque converter 14mm deep socket on bolt method and was pleasantly surprised how easy it was. Chain was allowing me to rock the engine and I'm too scared to "bump it"
• 3/4" breaker bar and 30mm socket....period. Threw on a 48" 1"ID galvanized pipe from the plumbing section of Lowe's and eased right off.
• Mark the inner-most part of the hub of the crankshaft pulley where it rides over the crankshaft nose, relative to the key and keyway with a sharpie or soapstone pen, makes alignment very easy and confident
• Vaseline or MP grease on the oil pump o-ring as it has a tendency to not seat in the groove very well during reassembly.
• 304 ft/lbs doesn't fee like much with a 42" long 3/4" torque wrench that goes to 600 ft/lbs.
• didn't have to drain the oil.
• Changed several Power steering lines and had to bleed system but easy.
• OEM all the way!!!!

Pic 1 is of the breaker bar and Pic 2 is for spacial relations.

 

[enterconnect]

what is this bolt for that's circled in RED. I'm leaking a little oil from there. Does it have a washer that should be replaced?

 

[robertaleon]

Are you sure that is the source? Have you done a really good cleaning?

Once I started with a clean engine I could find the real sources of my various liquid traces.

1. Dizzy o-ring
2. Plethora from various power steering hoses
3. Minimal from the oil pump gasket
4. Minimum from crank seal

They all tend to collect, hang out, and drip from that general area.

 

[robertaleon]

I believe that is "straight screw plug" - 90341-27006 with "gasket" - 90430-27005 behind it.

 

[crooozer]

I'm willing to bet you're not leaking from there.
Thats exactly how mine looked before doing the work.
I ordered that part also but never took it from the original packaging. It just collects there because it's the lowest point. There is just a metal washer behind it and it does not leak. Unless that is mine.. ? laughs but you get the picture.

Cheers.

 

[enterconnect]

I just did a quick once over. I'll get under there today and clean the area and see if I can pinpoint the leak. Thanks for the info.

 

[enterconnect]

It's the oil pump gasket that's leaking. Is it possible to change the gasket without removing the crankshaft?

 

[arndog123]

Nope the pulley has to come off.

 

[robertaleon]

Yep - has to come off - see post #42 for suggested tools!

Have fun - I did!

 

[Kernal]

I looked at about a dozen different Philips Head bits while at stores with a new Toyota Phillips head screw in my hand to see how they fit. The Harbor Freight bit did not fit the best; what fit better than all the others was a short Bosch PH#3 bit (two pack) that I found at Lowe's; nothing else fit as snugly and engaged more metal. It also has small ribs on the blades of the bit to grab better. I thought at first that this bit might be too short (1 inch) but it worked perfectly when used with a 1/4 inch socket and a 3/8" drive 16" long ratcheting breaker bar from HF.

 

[jlm43]

I want to thank everyone, especially Croozer, for their input on this thread.

I tackled this job today after work. I really did impress myself with my time of 3 1/2 hours. Now to be honest, my skid plate was already off and I have done the belts before so I was familiar with that. Other than that, I was a complete newbie to this job.

The other reason I am posting, is because I would like to add to it. I have to admit, this job went very well for me. I only had one hiccup. It was a stripped screw on the oil pump. And my solution is what I have to add for anyone that has to go thru this. Once I realized one was not going to come out, I removed all the other screws. I then took a long 5/32" pin punch (with a blunt end) and tapped the cover to rotate it in a counterclockwise direction. I was hoping that the spinning action of the cover would help loosen the screw. It didn't work this time but it is worth a shot if you strip one. Since that didn't work I had to dig out the angle drill. I drilled an 1/8" hole into the screw and installed the screw extractor. Tapped it with a hammer, put a 1/2" socket on the extractor and luckily she came right out. Here is a pic of the "extra" special tools I needed. These tools get used quite a bit at work for the same reason. Stripped screws. Spinning the panel usually works for me so I figured I would pass the tip on. I hope this helps.

On another note, I did remove the steering stabilizer. But just on the easy end. I let it hang next to the driver side wheel during the job. I left everything else alone and installed. And like Croozer, I did 90% of it from underneath. After doing it, I am really wondering why I put it off for so long.

Thanks again
J

 

[Kernal]

Are those all Snap-On tools?

 

[jlm43]

Are those all Snap-On tools?

Everything but the air drill.

I wrench for a living and I got tired of ratchets slipping and busting my knuckles. When it comes to Snap-On tools, eBay is my friend.

 

[Kernal]

I've tried ebay a few times but got beat every time in the last 5 seconds.

 

[Bearcat80]

You need to wear heavy gloves with Snap on stuff you buy online....
They are usually extremely hot.
Ebay may be your friend, but it's probably some other mechanics solen livelihood that's for sale.

 

[McDowra]

Thanks for the great write up and all the follow up information. I did mine off an don during the evenings after getting home from work. I ran into 2 problems the I stripped two oil pump cover screws and rounded the a nut on the fan. jlm43 told you how to remove them and I followed his instructions which worked perfectly. The fan nut I remove by using my dremel tool, then buying replacement studs and bolts from Autozone part# 23735.

thanks again

Mac

 

[2Cruiser]

Just finished doing my crankshaft seal. A 2 hour job, following all the advice found here.

One handy hint: A 2" Schedule 40 PVC pipe coupler (saw off a 1-1/4" piece) makes a great tool for tapping the new seal in straight.

 

[SpamEggsandRice]

I just wanted to thank you guys for all this informative information. I did the job in 2 hours first time and it went smooth.

 

[STRICTLY CUSTOM]

the key is still in the crank nose.

just saw this thread, a quick note about the belts. dayco top cogs are available in the us. many heavy duty truck dealerships carry dayco brand. it's just not a wide automotive belt. the numbers under the part number are the production run numbers, so they are considered a matching set if those numbers match. without a belt stick to measure, just flexing with your hands, you won't be able to tell if they match or not.
View attachment 514474

the key is still in the crank nose.

just saw this thread, a quick note about the belts. dayco top cogs are available in the us. many heavy duty truck dealerships carry dayco brand. it's just not a wide automotive belt. the numbers under the part number are the production run numbers, so they are considered a matching set if those numbers match. without a belt stick to measure, just flexing with your hands, you won't be able to tell if they match or not.
View attachment 514474

Hello Nuclearlemon,,,, Finally got my crank bolt off ,,,lol it sure is rewarding to actually have it come out,, those that had a tuff time , know what i am reffering to,,,lol........on my 96 Cruiser ,,, took a 3/4 drive impact gun ,,, took a little hustle to get it off, but finally it is out.. I noticed the same thing on my cruiser crank shaft via the keyway,,, via the picture from the last post above,, i was surprised the entire key and keyway does not come all the way to the end of the crank shaft,,, the harmoinic balancer is designed in that fashion,, any reason why? also the key in the keyway on the crankshaft seems low in height,, compared to the depoth of the keyway design on the hamromic balancer itself,, noithing seems worn or damaged,,, it just all seems a little weird in design. guessing this is the reason foir the high torque rating on the crank shaft bolt????

Thanks for any input, and for anyone else that has any input as well.. Thank you to the op for the information on this thread.