How to remove front sway bar? (1 Viewer)

[gregdawg89]

Hi all, my front sway bar is pretty nasty and I want to install a new one but am not sure if it can be removed with the LH & RH torsion bars kind of in the way. Assuming I removed both front tires is it possible to "pull through" the sway bar? Or will I have to detach one or both torsion bars?

 

[GerLC100]

You should be able to get it out without removing more than tires. hard to reach the right side, but possible.

 

[gregdawg89]

You should be able to get it out without removing more than tires. hard to reach the right side, but possible.

Thanks! Would you recommend pulling it through from right to left or the other direction?

 

[rbrave]

Be forewarned - my frame is pretty clean, but when I tried to do the bushings under the torsion bars I broke a bolt. If your sway bar is crusty I would consider learning how to drop the torsion bars - it’s next to impossible to get the clearance you need without doing so. Also, if I recall, the captive nut is on the bottom for the front bolt, top for the rear. So you need more access than you would think.

Be ready to drill out the old bolts.

 

[delz05]

Heat is your friend when trying to loosen old hardware… replace with new endlinks, bushings and hardware. Have all in hand before beginning… confirm fitment prior to removing.

 

[gregdawg89]

Be forewarned - my frame is pretty clean, but when I tried to do the bushings under the torsion bars I broke a bolt. If your sway bar is crusty I would consider learning how to drop the torsion bars - it’s next to impossible to get the clearance you need without doing so. Also, if I recall, the captive nut is on the bottom for the front bolt, top for the rear. So you need more access than you would think.

Be ready to drill out the old bolts.

That's where an induction heater might help.

 

[BiotechBoy]

That's where an induction heater might help.

I had never heard of an "induction heater" until I just read your post. And I have plenty of rusted bolts that need to come off that are too close to other important stuff to reliably use a torch. Has anyone reliably used one of these for $170? This one is 1100 watts but there are ones at 1800 watts - just ALOT more money closer to $500.

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www.amazon.com

 

[SmoothLC]

See Swaybar disconnects for 100 series post #7

 

[SmoothLC]

See Swaybar disconnects for 100 series post #7

 

[gregdawg89]

I had never heard of an "induction heater" until I just read your post. And I have plenty of rusted bolts that need to come off that are too close to other important stuff to reliably use a torch. Has anyone reliably used one of these for $170? This one is 1100 watts but there are ones at 1800 watts - just ALOT more money closer to $500.

Loading…

www.amazon.com

That one is probably just fine. This is the one I got and it's changed my life: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DKXCBSH4?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

Nearly always it will save you from breaking a bolt. Note: although the ads show people heating nuts & bolts to cherry red and immediately removing them, I've found that when the metal is that hot it's often "plastic" and will twist rather than remove. So some advice: after heating let it cools for ~10 seconds or so before putting a wrench on it.