HOW TO: relabeling your switches

[Rollinns]

Thanks for posting how to do this. I probably wouldn't have thought of trying to relabel these things on my own. I just relabeled an old hazard switch to an auxiliary light switch using a modified version of this process.

First, I took my icon and mirrored it in Powerpoint. I printed it on regular white paper (laser printer) at work. Then, I printed a regular version of the icon and a mirrored version on 3M clear laser printer labels. Finally, I put one of the laser printer labels on each side of the paper using a light table to perfectly overlay them all. The reason I used 3 overlayed prints was that the backlight bled through the black when using just one.

Finally, I glued the label to the original piece of plastic using Loctite Go2 glue. I tried superglue originally, but it smeared the toner on the labels. Loctite Go2 glue is clear and doesn't smear the toner.

Here's the results:

View attachment 727188

FYI GO2 glue from Loctite has been discontinued, I called Loctite and they say this is the closest equivalent:
Loctite Crystal Clear Extreme glue

 

[Devil's Slide Doug]

I’m finally getting around to interior winch controls with factory switch’s. I make and use custom labels for my job all the time. I see no reason not to use a “modern connected” p touch that you can import these symbols into!

 

[Marvelicious]

I’m finally getting around to interior winch controls with factory switch’s. I make and use custom labels for my job all the time. I see no reason not to use a “modern connected” p touch that you can import these symbols into!

View attachment 4065042

Same page. Using an Epson label maker, but yeah... works great. All I've done so far is the center diff lock, but I imported the symbol I wanted, uploaded it to the printer and it worked like a charm.

 

[Devil's Slide Doug]

Same page. Using an Epson label maker, but yeah... works great. All I've done so far is the center diff lock, but I imported the symbol I wanted, uploaded it to the printer and it worked like a charm.

After my post, I wondered if printing white onto black tape would actually be translucent enough. I guess the solution would be to print a negative black image onto clear tape.

 

[Marvelicious]

What I wound up using is black on clear, printed a negative, reversed image and stuck it to the back of the little plastic square. I used a highlight marker to give it color and I'm less thrilled with that - the color is pretty close to what I wanted, but it's sort of uneven and looks kinda like what it is. I would advise using actual lighting gel plastic and I might at some point, if the lowest hanging fruit of things that rig needs is ever fixing the center diff lock label.

 

[GeoRoss]

I had great results with a Glowforge laser cutter and vinyl.