How to install the Brushes of a DC Motor : Basic Steps (1 Viewer)

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morganism

SunkCostFallacy
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just found this, cuz i opened the wiper motor.

good info, and not gentle either....

edit: Never mind, NONE of the brushes in the 60's have the groove or slot. Tried binding em with a wire out the back slots, and didn't work either. Can you loop in thru the back, and catch the wire on top ?

Oh, and all the brushes get contaminated with grease when you pull the armature out.

Any nice tricks out there ? Starter has springs so you can depress em, and blower motor only has two brushes, and can be finessed. Not so the wiper motor.

 
Last edited:
Uh Oh...

"didn't disassemble the motor because when you take out the armature you permanently weaken the magnets.....unless you insert a steel/iron slug as you remove the arm"

"I also thought the same about magnet weakening.

But my new boss, a former Emerson and Magnetek electric motor designer, does not agree. he says that the weakening is not significant, because of the large air-gap in any PM motor.

I am not so sure, but I have to weight his opinion reasonably, since he was indeed in the biz.

I KNOW that mag chucks, mag bases, etc, need a "keeper". That has been proven"

and

"it's the material of the magnet that determines whether a flux-keeper ring is needed to remove or install the rotor. The older ferrites and alnico magnets would lose about half their magnetic strength if the keeper was not used. The newer samarium cobalt and neodymium boron iron magnets have such high field strength that a keeper is not necessary. These rare earth magnets have a shiny nickel plating for protection. They are very brittle and will shatter if dropped. If un-coated they will turn to powder from hydrogen embrittlement."

OT - repairing a permanent magnet DC motor

and, the old scriptures of DIY

Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: Notes on the Troubleshooting and Repair of Small Household Appliances and Power Tools
 
Okay then...
 

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