How to install coolant system?

[Ducks]

Hi All,

I've looked through the FSM and done some searching. Just had some rather basic questions. I am finally getting to replacing my radiator, some rad hoses, fan clutch, water pump, and thermostat. So -

1. When I use the Prestone-T in order to flush the system, do I have then engine off or running?

2. How do I pull off the radiator? Do I go in through the front by taking off the grille and if so, how do I get around the AC?

These questions are for a 2F, fj60. I'm sure I'll have more as this whee little project progresses.

Thank you much.

 

[3_puppies]

can't help with 1 but 2, no need to remove the grill or a/c condensor, remove the fan shroud bolts, slide shroud in towards engine, remove 4 bolts in rad, 2 in sides 2 on bottom(I think), cut hoses and pull up, slide shroud back and remove, then do the cut in half trick so it's easier next time.

when removing the shroud bolts the a/c drier can just be moved off to the side.

also replace all the hoses, oil cooler ones, rear heater and the ones connected to the firewall.

while in there replace the belts

 

[2mbb]

edit...I had to delete my original response because apparently I don't know what I'm talking about. Here's the three step process from the prestone site, but it's unclear since it never tells you to turn on the engine, but does tell you to turn it off. I suppose when I used to use this system I would start with a cool engine, turn the hose on, then turn the engine on and let it run. I did this back in the day and I would just let the outflow go down the storm sewer. These days that is not ecologically friendly (and possibly illegal), so I haven't used one in years.

1) *Make sure engine is cool, remove radiator cap and Flushing TEE Cap. *Attach Back-Flow Preventer Coupler to Flushing TEE and water supply line (black end to tee, Yellow end to garden hose). *If vehicle has no cap on the radiator, it is possible to back flush by disconnecting the upper radiator hose at the radiator.

2) *When appropriate, snap Splash Tube into radiator neck and open radiator drain. *Turn on water to garden hose. *Check to see that liquid is emerging from the Deflector Tube or radiator hose fitting before proceeding.

3) *Shut off engine, then turn off water. *Remove splash tube, hose, and coupler. *After draining the radiator, close radiator drain. ***If engine has a coolant recovery system, flush out coolant reservoir and fill to proper level with 50% Prestone Antifreeze/Coolant.

Caution: *Do not leave hose and coupler connected to TEE while using a cooling system cleaner.

 

[mrlocksmith]

If i remember right?? there are two bolts under the headlight covers that I had to deal with. It is doable but not as easy because of the AC stuff that is in the way.

When I flushed my system I did not have motor on... I do not know if it should be or not but the thought of cold tap water in a already hot motor did not sound like a good thing to me.

Mark

 

[Ducks]

Thanks for the help guys. Unfortunately I am actually stuck at step one. According to the Prestone website the heater inlet hose is -

Two heater hoses extend from the fire wall to the engine, in both front and rear wheel drive vehicles. Hose #1 runs from fire wall to water pump. Hose #2 runs from fire wall to top of engine. This is the heater inlet hose. Ask a qualified mechanic if uncertain.

So where does the heater inlet hose come out of the fire wall? I thought I traced all the hoses coming out of the passenger side and couldn't find one going to the top of the engine. Does it come out of the driver's side? Hard to tell with all the hoses in there. Of course, my ex-wife says I couldn't find anything unless it was dropped on my head. So a point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[JLH911]

Thanks for the help guys. Unfortunately I am actually stuck at step one. According to the Prestone website the heater inlet hose is -

Two heater hoses extend from the fire wall to the engine, in both front and rear wheel drive vehicles. Hose #1 runs from fire wall to water pump. Hose #2 runs from fire wall to top of engine. This is the heater inlet hose. Ask a qualified mechanic if uncertain.

So where does the heater inlet hose come out of the fire wall? I thought I traced all the hoses coming out of the passenger side and couldn't find one going to the top of the engine. Does it come out of the driver's side? Hard to tell with all the hoses in there. Of course, my ex-wife says I couldn't find anything unless it was dropped on my head. So a point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Here's where I installed mine. I do/did the same thing that 2mbb did/does....I run the water through it when it's cool and open the water and then turn it on. I don't know if it ever gets warm enough to have the thermostat open, but at least it's cleaner than when I start.

Hope this pic helpsKind of hard to see, but it's up at the top of the pic with a red circle around it)

 

[Ducks]

Excellent! Now I see where it is. Do you just leave the T in with the cap on or do you put in a new hose?

Here's where I installed mine. I do/did the same thing that 2mbb did/does....I run the water through it when it's cool and open the water and then turn it on. I don't know if it ever gets warm enough to have the thermostat open, but at least it's cleaner than when I start.

Hope this pic helpsKind of hard to see, but it's up at the top of the pic with a red circle around it)

 

[JLH911]

I cut the existing hose that was there and put the tee in it. I can't remember which of the included tees it was. IIRC, it's a TIGHT fit, but it will go in(that's what she said! wackawacka!). Use some coolant on the ends of the tee and on the inside of the hose to help with slipping it on.

 

[mrlocksmith]

Make sure to cut enough hose away so you keep the down angle of the 90'bend at about 90'. I did not and it leaked so I had to do it again. Dont forget to burp the coolant system when you are done.

Mark

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I would not leave the t in place. It's a cheap crappy piece of plastic and would introduce a failure point into your system. If you must use it, install, flush, take out.

Remember to open the heater valves front and rear when you flush, otherwise it leaves old dirty fluid in the system.

I agree with replacing the firewall hoses, and don't forget the 1/2 inch hose on the driver side that attaches to the back of the head. one or two of the firewall hoses are formed so you may want to order those from Toyota before you start.

There are two radiator bolts hidden by the edge of the ac condenser. If you remove the AC condenser mount bolts, there is just enough wiggle room to remove the radiator bolts.

There is also a bolt under the battery tray that is much easier to access if you remove the tray. Mudrak drills a hole in the tray so he can pass a long extension down to the mount bolt. I think it's just as easy to pull the tray. It depends how much corrosion you have there.

I'd offer to help, but I have to work until 10pm today. Good luck.

One other thing-don't forget about the block drain at the rear of the motor. If you hook up your hose to the "t" open the block drain as well during the flush. It's messy but allows a very complete purge of the motor.

 

[jvazquez53]

Had those tees for years, never had a problem; from Kuwait to Alaska, to Puerto Rico weather.

 

[JLH911]

Had those tees for years, never had a problem; from Kuwait to Alaska, to Puerto Rico weather.

That tee has never given me a problem. I've installed it in two other vehicles, one of which has been in there for at least five years and it has never given me a problem.