How to decide when flexible brake lines need replacing??

[Kernal]

Just noticed that the flexible front brake lines have some cracking in the rubber at the coupling toward the rotor end, like I can see the lining underneath through the cracks, but they aren't leaking yet. Is this a sign they should be replaced? First photo is DS with no cracks, second is PS with cracks. The cracks look worse when there is some bend in the line like when it is installed.

 

[fumanchu]

Replace them. The main issue with brake lines is that they swell internally. If they are cracked on the exterior, they are probably worse internally. The orifice inside swells not allowing the caliper to retract back. You can probalby guess what happens then. It really is a maintainence item... most are around 15 yrs old now.

Don't gamble with brakes, it's cheap in the big picture.

 

[Ebag333]

Replace and rebuild the calipers while you're at it.

 

[Kernal]

Yeah, got the rebuild parts for the calipers and set of braided steel lines I got with my new DBA rotors (not sure if I want to use OEM rubber or the steel however). I did notice that the DS pads were worn much more than the PS, and the PS is the side that is cracked? The rig also has recently started to pull a tad to the left, so maybe the calipers are sticking also?? I'm lazily thinking to just go to O-Reillys and pick up a set of rebuilds as I got to get this thing back together this weekend.

How do you get the hard line end of the flexible line off without hurting the hard line?? As fumanchu says they've been on there for 15 years.

 

[Spanky Pete]

I recently did the caliper rebuild and it really does not take that much time or work. Compressed air is nice for popping the pistons out. But the two screw driver pry method works well if you take your time. Clean the pistons up with a razor blade and brake cleaner. Clean the piston holes in the caliper with a propane torch (after removing the old rubber piston). Followed, not too closely, by brake cleaner. $35 kit sure beats the price of two rebuilt calipers, and you have the peace of mind knowing they were rebuilt with care. So you got the axle rebuild done?

 

[Kernal]

SpankyPete; uhhh, what axle rebuild??

















Actually no, haven't done much all week, was waiting on some small parts, forgot to order some damaged washers, now need brake lines, blah blah blah. but gonna try to finish it up this weekend. As it was just sitting I took the time to drop my birfs off at a machine shop for drilling. Photos to follow in another thread.

 

[OGBeno]

A set of 4 soft lines will run about $130 or so....the rear ones are left and right assigned. The front ones are the same part number.

Front: 90947-02A16
Rears Right: 90947-02614
Rears Left: 90947-02615

The caliper to axle hoses do not need to be lengthened. Stock length is good on lifted vehicles.

EDIT: PN's are correct for the rear.

 

[d0ubledown]

A set of 4 soft lines will run about $130 or so....the rear ones are left and right assigned. The front ones are the same part number.

Front: 90947-02A16
Rears Right: 90947-02614
Rears Left: 90947-02615
definitely replace them. if you dont want to go SS, i think there were some P/Ns floating around for extended soft lines that would work for the 80. tundra lines IIRC.


(I might have the two rear ones reversed, but the part numbers are correct).

The caliper to axle hoses do not need to be lengthened. Stock length is good on lifted vehicles.

interesting that the fronts are same P/Ns. my MAF extended SS lines show different lengths & numbers for right & left. and single rear line. i still have to replace front right line...its seized on pretty good. ih8rust . beno, got a P/N for the hardline that connects from the frame softline to caliper softline? or am i better off getting one made up locally? i think the coupler threads are M8 1.25?

 

[Kernal]

beno: thanks, I waited too late to call in an order, and FedEx overnight is not worth it, so may go with aftermarket hoses (and calipers if I can't get my pistons out).

doubledown; how did those MAF braded SS lines work out, did they affect brake pedal feel, any corrosion or wear through issues? Do they fit up OK?

SpankyPete: I pulled my calipers off, but could only get one piston out. Tried the trick by pushing on the brake pedal with the pads out but as soon as one piston came out all the way the rest didn't budge, no luck with screwdrivers and no compressed air at home. Will try again tomorrow with some air.

 

[lacruiser]

beno: thanks, I waited too late to call in an order, and FedEx overnight is not worth it, so may go with aftermarket hoses (and calipers if I can't get my pistons out).

doubledown; how did those MAF braded SS lines work out, did they affect brake pedal feel, any corrosion or wear through issues? Do they fit up OK?

SpankyPete: I pulled my calipers off, but could only get one piston out. Tried the trick by pushing on the brake pedal with the pads out but as soon as one piston came out all the way the rest didn't budge, no luck with screwdrivers and no compressed air at home. Will try again tomorrow with some air.

Best to insert a piece of plywood in the caliper, that way when one piston comes out, it contacts the wood and won't push all the way out, so the others will have pressure and then they will push out. Get all of them out somewhat, then remove the wood, or substitute a thinner piece of wood, or combo wood/brake pad, whatever.

 

[80t0ylc]

interesting that the fronts are same P/Ns. my MAF extended SS lines show different lengths & numbers for right & left. and single rear line............

Those MAF lines are from frame to axle. Beno's p/ns are from axle to caliper. They are different hoses. That's why they'll work on raised truck as well as stock.

 

[Kernal]

Think I'm gonna get some rebuilt calipers and aftermarket hoses, need to get this back together; anyone have experience with A1 Cardone calipers and Autozone brake lines??

 

[Tapage]

Those MAF lines are from frame to axle. Beno's p/ns are from axle to caliper. They are different hoses. That's why they'll work on raised truck as well as stock.

I thought MAF have the short caliper brake lines in SS too ..

 

[80t0ylc]

I thought MAF have the short caliper brake lines in SS too ..

Yeah, in their caliper hose kit, only $99 USD. But that's not what d0ubledown was referring to:

interesting that the fronts are same P/Ns. my MAF extended SS lines show different lengths & numbers for right & left. and single rear line............

He was saying "extended" which refers to the longer lines for lifted rigs.

That kit is $89.95 USD. 3 hoses, 2 front & 1 rear.
You can also get the kit that includes all 7 lines including both the caliper (4 hoses), which will fit both lifted and stock, and the 3 extended frame to axle lines for lifted rigs for $175 USD.

But, I've heard that OEM Toyota brake lines last longer and I believe you can even get OEM extended lines. Best to check with cdan on that, though.

 

[OGBeno]

But, I've heard that OEM Toyota brake lines last longer and I believe you can even get OEM extended lines. Best to check with cdan on that, though.

Dan was able to do some cool research and was able to get longer OEM brake lines that would go in the place of the 3 lines that need extending on an 80 when you lift them. Basically, the 3 frame to axle soft lines.

I apologize for the incorrect part numbers above....they are for the caliper to axle soft lines--which are nice to replace if you are running the stock OEM's from the factory. Mine had--after 13 years--lots of cracks, and some missing rubber over the steel underneath.

 

[Kernal]

Anyone have some more suggestions on how to get stuck pistons out of calipers? I took mine to a shop with air and we were able to get two of four pistons out, then put them back in and tried again to get the other two out while holding the first two in with a large C clamp and some wood, but they are stuck good, didn't budge at all and we couldn't turn them either with a large pair of pliers. What I found on one of the pistons that came out was a lot of thick sticky varnish which might be what is making them stick. Maybe spray some penetrating oil into the caliper itself to let it work from the inside?? Apply heat?? Or just forget it and get the remans from O'Reillys??

 

[lacruiser]

Anyone have some more suggestions on how to get stuck pistons out of calipers? I took mine to a shop with air and we were able to get two of four pistons out, then put them back in and tried again to get the other two out while holding the first two in with a large C clamp and some wood, but they are stuck good, didn't budge at all and we couldn't turn them either with a large pair of pliers. What I found on one of the pistons that came out was a lot of thick sticky varnish which might be what is making them stick. Maybe spray some penetrating oil into the caliper itself to let it work from the inside?? Apply heat?? Or just forget it and get the remans from O'Reillys??

Air pressure is limited to what, maybe 150 PSI.

If you reconnect it to the hydraulic lines and bleed, then apply the pedal, you'll be pressurizing it to 1000 psi, or whatever the system is designed to, whatever it is it's WAY more than the air pressure.

If that doesn't do the trick, get rebuilts.

 

[Kernal]

lacruiser; think I'm headed for rebuilts, tried it when they were still in the rig and only a couple of them moved a little. The experienced mechanic who was helping me try to get the pistons out said they should turn some with a large pair of pliers and they didn't budge. He also suggested remans.

Called half a dozen parts stores, most could not get them for a few days, found one set at Autozone, Fenco brand, never heard of them, wasn't impressed. O'Reillys will have A1 Cardone remans and the lines in the morning, will check them out.

Newb question: how do I disconnect the soft lines from the hard lines without damaging the hard lines? I have a 10mm brake line wrench, not sure which way to twist it while standing in the wheel well. Like if it if lefty loosy from inside the frame rails, does that mean I turn to the right from standing in the wheel well for the driver's side?? And for the PS, do I turn the wrench toward the center line of the vehicle because the hose is mounted front to back. Does that make sense? After I get the hose disconnected, just pry up the clamp that holds it in place, any special tool or technique for that, just grab it with pliers and yank?

 

[OGBeno]

Newb question: how do I disconnect the soft lines from the hard lines without damaging the hard lines? I have a 10mm brake line wrench, not sure which way to twist it while standing in the wheel well. Like if it if lefty loosy from inside the frame rails, does that mean I turn to the right from standing in the wheel well for the driver's side?? And for the PS, do I turn the wrench toward the center line of the vehicle because the hose is mounted front to back. Does that make sense? After I get the hose disconnected, just pry up the clamp that holds it in place, any special tool or technique for that, just grab it with pliers and yank?

Always lefty-loosey, righty-tighty as if you were looking straight onto the fitting. So if you are opposite of the fitting--say from inside of the wheel well and you are loosening the soft line to hardline at the metal bracket, you would turn the opposite direction, because you are now opposite (180 degrees) from the fitting.

Make sense?

I just replaced all of my hard lines and I had to destroy most of my fittings (using PB and vice grips) and at one point had to use a hack saw to cut through a brake line because it was so corroded and crushed from wheeling.

I bought all new OEM hard lines, soft lines, 3 ways, 2 ways, brackets, etc. Literally everything was replaced. It is nice knowing that such a critical system was now up to par for what I put it through.

 

[lacruiser]

lacruiser; think I'm headed for rebuilts, tried it when they were still in the rig and only a couple of them moved a little. The experienced mechanic who was helping me try to get the pistons out said they should turn some with a large pair of pliers and they didn't budge. He also suggested remans.

Called half a dozen parts stores, most could not get them for a few days, found one set at Autozone, Fenco brand, never heard of them, wasn't impressed. O'Reillys will have A1 Cardone remans and the lines in the morning, will check them out.

Newb question: how do I disconnect the soft lines from the hard lines without damaging the hard lines? I have a 10mm brake line wrench, not sure which way to twist it while standing in the wheel well. Like if it if lefty loosy from inside the frame rails, does that mean I turn to the right from standing in the wheel well for the driver's side?? And for the PS, do I turn the wrench toward the center line of the vehicle because the hose is mounted front to back. Does that make sense? After I get the hose disconnected, just pry up the clamp that holds it in place, any special tool or technique for that, just grab it with pliers and yank?

I put rebuilts on my rig about a year ago, got them from the local Toyota dealer. I think I paid around $75 each wholesale, so list was probably close to $100? Maybe give Dan a call.

If I recall correctly, you may need to hold the hard line in place with a wrench, while loosening the soft line. The threads are normal threads, right-handed, so yes, from the outside perspective the inside wrench would then be turning to the right to loosen.